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  #1  
Old 08-15-2003, 12:15 PM
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Question Crimp tool required for timing chain replacement?

Hello,
Is a crimping tool required to replace the timing chain on an 84 300TD W123? Here is what I have found so far in researching this:

--> In reading the Haynes manual it indicates that the crimping tool is required to join the masterlink together.

--> I looked at Pindelski.com and he recommends to only use the c-clips since there is not a significant transverse load on the chain.

--> In reading up on some the forum here, some people have recommended vise grips or some other common tool for this.

I have done a bit of looking around for the tool (000 589.58.43.00) but have only found one for sale ($249). If I need the tool I would like to use it as this seems like a critical link...Does anyone out there have the tool to loan for $20? Please let me know.

Thanks,
Billy

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  #2  
Old 08-15-2003, 01:42 PM
LarryBible
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I would not use vise grips. To get a symmetrical expansion, use a body dolly or big hammer behind the pinned link, press the plate in position with smooth side out and peen with a ball peen hammer. To identify the smooth side, simply feel the plate with your fingers. One side will have sharp edges and the other side will feel smooth. Peen the pins into the smooth side.

Hope this helps,
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  #3  
Old 08-15-2003, 01:54 PM
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Thanks for the advise on using more commony available tools to complete the job...I am concerned about damaging the pin or creating a stiff link with not using the right tool. Not doing a good job here would have some pretty big consequences. I am considering just buying one and making it available to persons on this forum for rent (~$20) to see how it works out! I checked with performance parts and they rent for $38 plus $10 S&H. They were completely out of stock of this rental item so I would probably have to wait for 2 weeks before even getting it. Anyone have any comments on renting tools on this forum?

Thanks,
Billy
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  #4  
Old 08-15-2003, 02:53 PM
LarryBible
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As long as you put the plate firmly in place before bradding you will not hurt the pin.

Peening the pin in place has no more chance, if as much of a chance of making a stiff link. The pressure is carried by the cylindrical piece that the pin goes through.

The only difference in the links I've peened and the links I've seen set with the tool is that the one set with the tool is prettier. Since I don't make a habit of removing the valve cover and showing off my timing chain, I'm not too worried about that.

Good luck,
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  #5  
Old 08-15-2003, 05:03 PM
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The vise grips( either filed or holding something with proper holes in them) might help with seating of the side plate, which several have described as a very tight fit... and since it is a tight fit it takes very little peening of the pin to make it where it will not come off without grinding the end off... as shown in the shop manual...
Listen to Larry.. this is a frugal bunch and timing chains just don't have to be changed all that often...
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  #6  
Old 08-16-2003, 01:51 PM
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Billy

Like allready mentioned the side plate is a very tight fit and the first one I did it, it was a challange to get it on and off (when you have pulled the new chain through) the peening is the easy part and the body dolly and ball peen hammer are indeed the tools for that. I would not spend any $ on the crimper.
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  #7  
Old 08-18-2003, 11:26 AM
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I know I won't be popular for saying this but I bought the MB tools, and I'm glad I did. DO NOT use the clip-type link, no matter what you read on the Pindelski site (most of his info is pretty good though). Only use the rivet type link. You can use a hammer & anvil to peen the links if you're careful. You will need to use pliers to press on the outer plate. And if you use a factory MB rivet link (not the one that comes with the new chain), the CENTER plate is also pressed on. I just did this on my OM603 engine, read here for complete details on the procedure, OE tool details, tool prices, tool sources, and photos as well:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=72661


My advice: Wait until it's available and then rent the crimp tool.


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  #8  
Old 08-18-2003, 02:30 PM
LarryBible
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The are two clip type master links. One is like you would see on a chain found commonly on motorcycles or various machinery. This type has one long split clip that fits over BOTH pins. The second type has two E shaped clips that fit individually over each pin.

In early MB's, the E type clips were used. With later chains, the permanent link was used. Although the two E clips are probably adequate, I prefer the peened or pressed clip.

There is nothing wrong with buying the tool, it's just that it's not necessary for those who are competent with the few steps needed to peen it properly with hammer and dolly.

Good luck,
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  #9  
Old 08-18-2003, 04:12 PM
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Sorry for the newbie question but what's the dolly?
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  #10  
Old 08-18-2003, 04:25 PM
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A dolly is a handheld anvil. They are available in lots of shapes .
Top right of the page next to the yellow handled hammers...

http://eastwoodco.com/Department.asp?SKW=TBF2&Dep_Key1=BodFen&Cat=Dent+Repair&SubCat=Body+Hammers+%26+Dollies
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  #11  
Old 08-18-2003, 04:43 PM
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Thumbs up

Thanks for all the great input! I am going replace the timing chain this weekend and will try and peen without the factory tool. I will let you know what happens.

Cheers!
Billy
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  #12  
Old 08-19-2003, 08:49 AM
LarryBible
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If you don't have any body dollies just use a large ball peen hammer held sideways for your backup. Don't forget to push the plate firmly in place over the pins before peening. It will probably take pliers to push it over the tips of the pins.

Good luck,
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  #13  
Old 08-19-2003, 12:00 PM
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I get it. Like when we fixed a guys mountain bike chain with a big flat rock, pliers and a pointy rock,.:p , but with real tools
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  #14  
Old 08-19-2003, 02:30 PM
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Good to be back. Been off line for over a month.
I replaced the timing chains on both of my diesels and was able to use a crimping tool for free. It works very well. Would recommend it if it is possible to get to. Otherwise the peening has worked well for others. The only thing is the back of the chain there is not easy to get a clean shot at, but still it is doable.
I recall asking a well experienced MB tech about the clips. He said they were used at one time. Most worked well, but they found that the diesels were prone to having the engine lurch backwards on shutdown. A rare occurance, but if that master link and clip was in just hte right spot it would be pulled off. That equals engine disaster. Not a good thing to risk.
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  #15  
Old 08-19-2003, 02:42 PM
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Well,, sometimes you need three hands.... a helper holds the anvil device on the front.. and you use one hand to hold a flat or even a sharpened punch on the pin... and hit it with the other hand. Three taps with a sharpened punch half way between the center and the edge... equally spaced around it should do just fine...
Certainly if someone can get the actual tool made for this reasonably they should... proper tools make mechanicing much more satisfying.

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