I am talking about a noise that as in my right front wheel well. It was a prodominant clunk. What is the part that the right tie rod goes to? After it leaves the wheel what is the part that it connects to? It has several curves in it. It is probably about 4 inches long? There is about a 3" bolt that goes vertical through it. I think the drag bar (think that's what its called, it is a bar with a ball joint on each side) or something like that connects to it also. There was a lot of play in my wheel when pulling front to back. I don't know what a lot pf parts are called yet so please tolerate my ignorance.
Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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David:

W116 suspension is identical to the W126 and W123 front end except for parts size.

The part you are describing is the idler arm. Check for vertical play -- if you can move it up and down, you need new bushings.

Usual source of knocking/groaning on the W116 is a bad thrust (track) rod bushing on the body, followed by (yikes) bad mounts or bushings on the upper control arm or firewall (sway bar, which acts as the upper control arm mount).

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

It's not that it can move up and down, but it is sloppy. It can go side to side. I temporarily fixed it by tightening the bolt down more. I left it loose enough so that the bolt can turn with the army, that way it is not metal on metal wear. It greatly helped the problem. Is the big bolt the idler arm or is it just a bolt? Is it just a bolt? How is it in the arm piece? It can turn in the arm but you can't push it out of the arm. Is there some kind of taper on the bolt?
Hope I am making sense

Thanks
David

__________________
_____________________________________________

2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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The bolt holds the idler arm in the bushings, which are worn out. Could just be a loose bolt, too.

Tighten to correct torque -- I'd guess something like 15 ft/lbs. Should be a self-locking nut.

If still loose, replace bushings by removing bolt and prying/driving out the old ones, reverse for installation of new ones.


Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!