W210 606 serp belt/tensioner replacement - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

slowmoe · #1 09-11-2003, 08:22 AM

I am preparing to do the belt and tensioner on my 606 this weekend. It sounds like I will need to remove the shroud and fan. Is it the same on this engine as on the 124? - lots in a archives on these...

Do I need to take the fan off?

If so, do I need a special tool?

Chris W. · #2 09-11-2003, 01:01 PM

I just did it on my 606 in a '95 E300D W124. So I'm not sure if this will help. But I only removed the shroud, and not the fan.

By the way, the shroud is one of the best designs I've ever seen. Pull pin, rotate shroud, remove shroud. 30 seconds tops!

Hardest part for me was pushing the belt through the gap between 2 pullies. Once I de-tensioned the tensioner, there is plenty of slack to work the old belt off, and plenty to get it on. But keep a routing diagram handy because it's easy to forget the path.

There is one spot where the belt has to be bent to a tight "U" shape to squeeze it between two pullies (can't remember which ones) and you have to sort of turn one of the pullies to help push the U bend through the gap.

The job is one of those things that took 2 hours the first time, but if you had to do it again you could cut that to about 15 or 20 minutes. But of course by the time you need to do it again in several years you will have forgotten everything from the first time!

Rgds,
Chris W.
'95 E300D

slowmoe · #3 09-11-2003, 01:52 PM

Chris,

Thanks for the input. How do you de-tension the tensioner? I will actually be replacing mine as it has been vibrating for some time now.

Also, did you need to remove the fan?

md21722 · #4 09-11-2003, 03:50 PM

A long bolt goes thru the head at the top of the tensioner spring. Remove the nut. Use a 3/8" extension in the top of the plastic piece as leverage to take pressure off the bolt, slide the bolt back. Then just pull up on the belt and you'll get enough slack. To reinstall, use the extension to put tension back on the spring and slide the bolt back into place.

HTH,

slowmoe · #5 09-11-2003, 07:04 PM

guys,

I am not sure I am getting all of this...

I have one SHOCK-like component on the passenger's side of the engine and another SPRING-like component on the driver's side. The part that is rattling and I am prepared to replace is the one on the passenger side. There is a nut that holds the SPRING like component and a bolt that goes through the SHOCK like component.

I am not understanding where to apply pressure to alleviate tension in the SHOCK (tensioner/whatever) as I remove the bolt. Can you please re-explain.

Am I correct in assuming that I can then simple remove both bolts holding the SHOCK, replace the belt, replace the SHOCK and be finished? This sounds too easy....

Also, why have so many mentioned the need to remove the fan inorder to do this job?

psfred · #6 09-11-2003, 08:30 PM

First, you will have to remove the fan. The bolt that holds the bottom of the shock on wont' come out with the fan on, unless they shortened it on the 606. We tried, needs about 1/4 inch more space....

Fan is easy to remove -- use an 8 mm allen on a pipe for the bolt and a 3mm allen through the hole in the back of the bracket -- there are slots or holes in the fan clutch that the 3mm allen will slot into. Easier than winding the belt around everything.

The belt tensioner is a simple spring, held in tension by a plastic bracket on the top front of the head. There is a bolt front to rear, about 4" long, and there is a hole at right angles on the passenger side of the plastic part. Remove the nut on the bolt, put a 3/8" extention into the other hole, and push down on the extension. This will relieve the pressure on the bolt so you can push it back, allowing the plastic bracket to swivel down. This unloads the spring so you can take it off.

If you do manage to get the shock bolt out without taking the fan off, you can put the belt on by wrestling it around the fan, then making a tight loop near the tensioner pulley, pulling the belt around the alternator, then from underneath pull the other side of the loop around the crank -- unless you have tiny hands, you won't be able to get the belt over the crank pulley from above. The loop goes up between the alternator and the crank pulley, ribs on the alternator and crank pulley side, flat on the tensioner pulley.

Peter

DR.DIESEL · #7 09-12-2003, 10:55 AM

Sorry, but on the 210 car with a 606 diesel, there is no fan lock
hole like on a 300e or other to hold the pulley.
You have to use a pulley holding tool that grabs the pulley and belt and uses the belt to hold the pulley with leverage.
The P/N is 603 589 00 40 00. The standard old 300E 8mm
fan bolt wrench works fine for breaking the bolt loose.
I have seen people (not here) use vise grips or channellocks
to grip the lip of the pulley from the rear, but I cannot recommend this as it will damage your pulley.

Good luck.
Dr.D

slowmoe · #8 10-06-2003, 06:54 PM

Well guys,

I finally did it with the help of my father-in-law. Hopefully the following will clear up the confusion and help others in the future

STEP ONE Remove the fan shroud. It can be done by first lifting up from the top to releas the lower clips. Then from under the car push the lower portion of the shroud forward to the radiator and in front of the fan blades. Next, pull from the top rotating the fan blades out of the way.

STEP TWO: Remove the fan. This is accomplished by removing the (3) 5mm bolts holding the fan to the fan clutch. A mirror makes locating the bolts easier.

STEP THREE: With the fan off the clutch, remove the 8mm bolt holding the clutch to the pulley. For this job I needed to manufacture two tools.

Picture one below is the tool I made to replace MB P/N is 603 589 00 40 00 mentioned by Dr. Diesel. This part was $83 from the dealer and required waiting 3-8 weeks to receive. All it is is a piece of flat steel from Home Depot with two stagered 1/4 inch nut and bolt arrangments. Use steel bolts and cover them with 1/4 inch rubber tubing to protect the pulley. Face them one way for removing the pulley and the other for replacing it. Total cost was about $6.

The second part was a the allen wrench to remove the pulley bolt. I simply started with a standard 8mm allen wrench and cut off one inch with a hack saw made for cutting through hard steel. This gave me enough clearence to remove the bolt without running into the radiator.

STEP FOUR: Remove the pulley. This is accomplished by removing the four bolts hoding the pulley tp the backing plate.

STEP FIVE: Remove tensioner and replace belt.

There you have it. If there are any questions, I will do my best. Thanks

slowmoe · #9 10-06-2003, 06:58 PM

Picture one:

slowmoe · #10 10-06-2003, 06:59 PM

Picture 2

slowmoe · #11 10-06-2003, 06:59 PM

3

slowmoe · #12 10-06-2003, 07:00 PM

4

slowmoe · #13 10-06-2003, 07:00 PM

5

Triffin · #14 10-06-2003, 07:08 PM

I especially like the bloody knuckles

Triffin

psfred · #15 10-06-2003, 08:32 PM

Sacrifices to the Radiator Gods, so that it won't plug and overheat as soon as you get the new belt on....

The M103 substitute tools are a 3/4" or so length of an 8mm allen welded into a flat bar and a 1/8" wire flattened on one end, bent 90 degrees about half and inch back, then bent 35 degrees or so in the same plane so that the flattened part will fit nicely into the slot on the fan bearing, locking the fan clutch.

Peter

Peter