Toblin was talking about being cheap. Here--I found the el-cheapo oil sucker guy. Here's his website:

http://www.constructivity.net/oilsucker.htm

Actually, they sell drill pump setups that are specifically meant to pump hot oil out of an engine. I spent a miserable few hours getting the 25 quarts of oil (and the water that had gotten into the crankcase) out of a marine 6-71 using this method. The biggest problem was we didn't have a long enough length of small-diameter hose to get to the bottom of the oil pan, and even if we had, there were a few things that were obstructing the hose from going too far in. Was a real PITA, and it took a few re-fillings to get all of the water out of the crankcase. We were working under semi-emergency conditions, though...before we try a "proper" oil change, I need ot figure a better way to get all the oil out of the engine.

That said, what's the capacity of a Topsider? Might be worth looking into...also, what's the best method of getting the hose to the bottom of the oil pan without it bending back up? Or is it just a touchy-feely process?

Might be worthwhile to look into this for the truck...although I have ot get under the truck to change the oil filter, so maybe it doesn't make a difference.

Maybe PEH had a 115 240D? I've heard that they put the filter in a different spot on the 115 cars, and it's a cast-iron PITA to get to with that setup...

Not a problem on MBs since the mid 70s or so. The dipstick tube goes just about to the bottom of the sump so there's no opportunity for the hose to bend. You can use a rigid metal tube to remove all doubt and maybe so it works on other cars.

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

Warden-
My topsider Big Boy has an eight quart capacity...more than enough for a complete typical extraction. It is easy to feel when the end of the tubing is 'home' at the bottom of the pan. I usually will stop the process part way, re-create the vacuum in the Topsider, then finish the process to make sure that there is enough 'draw' for a complete extraction. Simple and neat, and easy to take to the oil recycling location too.

I found the line to Harbor Freight's site. The page also shows what looks like a nice, large capacity electric model. It is

http://order.harborfreight.com:9100/EasyAsk/harborfreight/results.jsp

Darn, only 8? I guess it won't work on the Screamin' Jimmy, then...actually, that wouldn't even work on my truck (holds 11 quarts)... :( It was worth a shot, eh?

I may start using the drill pump on the 300D, though...then I won't have to get under the car at all :)

Eleven quarts??--yikes! Almost as bad as my old Maserati 4.9 liter V8 where each oil change involved at least 13 quarts of oil and a $34 filter. Is there a Costco near you? Right now in So Cal they have 6 gallon cases of Delo 15W-40 for just under $36.

Thanks dweller!

I just put mine together and will try it out tomorrow. But I went WAY over budjet. Total was $3.20 for a few plastic fittings.

my 2 cents worth
 

I do not see how you can get out all the dirty and the sludge oil out using one of these. These might be ok for a boat, but hey your are talking Mercedes here. if you have a drain plug then use it, or go to your local oil change shop if you don't like crawling under a car.... JMHO

As has been observed on this board and elsewhere numerous times, Mercedes has for years engineered its cars for this type of oil extraction and uses this method in its factory approved service centers. Numerous (understandably) skeptical folks have pulled the drain plug on an engine that was just drained using the suction method and found than only an inconsequential amount of oil, if any, remained in the sump. Sludge doesn't drain in an oil change--dirty oil does. Sludge is what *remains* when oil is left too long in an engine between changes. Any suction device that allows owners to easily and neatly change oil will help fight sludge build-up by making oil changes a less onerous task. If you don't choose to use a suction device, that's OK, but they DO work...just as the factory intended.

Everyone has their own opinion, but here is MB's per their Service Bulletin:

Engine Oil - Approved Evacuation Equipment

Date: March 2001

Order No.: S-SI-58.00/118

Supersedes:

Group 58

SUBJECT:
ALL ENGINES
APPROVED OIL EVACUATION EQUIPMENT

The purpose of this Service Information is to inform dealers that Approved Oil Evacuation Equipment, which is used to extract used engine oil from the engine via the oil dipstick tube, is now available for order. Mercedes-Benz engines are designed to allow the extraction of engine oil from under the hood via the dipstick tube. The engine dipstick tube has an enlarged cross section, plus a formed extension at the top end where the dipstick is inserted and the approved engine oil evacuation equipment interfaces. The opposite end of the dipstick ends just short of the oil pan bottom, thus engine oil can be extracted via the approved oil evacuation equipment by using the dipstick tube. Additionally, the engine dipstick tube itself is the conduit through which spent engine oil is moved to the oil evacuation equipment.

In addition, service and repair components for existing approved oil evacuation equipment is also available.

Note: Because the engine oil dipstick tube is the conduit through which spent engine oil is extracted, inserting tubular probes through the dipstick tube is NOT recommended.

Special Note for M-class:

Due to the location of the vehicle frame and suspension components, the draining of engine oil via the engine crankcase oil drain plug is not recommended, since this can lead to engine oil coming in contact and subsequently be damaging to the rubber suspension components. Thus, it is strongly recommended to use the approved oil evacuation equipment contained in the Service Information for this purpose.

Index

1. FLACO

2. RAASM

3. BDM Engineering

4. Deutsche Tecalemit (DT)

There should be NOTHING in the oil except small particulate (mostly soot) that the oil is intended to hold in suspension. That's why the oil is black - it's holding the soot in suspension and that what it was intended to do. If the oil in an MB auto diesel does not almost immediately become black, the oil is NOT doing it's job properly. When the concentration of small particulate in the oil reaches about 2%, the oil/filter is intended to be changed. Larger material is intended to be trapped in the filter. If there is anything else in the oil THERE IS SOMETHING very wrong or the engine is being abuse or not maintained.

Some entirely conventional and some largely hydrocracked oils (that are labeled as synthetics despite their conventional origin) that include substantial quantitiies of viscosity improvers, will degrade and leave sludge-like materials in the engine if they are not removed as soon as the VIs start to degrade (usually between 2-4kmi). This is evident as increased oil consumption as the VIs degrade leaving only less viscous base that is consummed more rapidly. I've solved that issue by not using those oils. Mercedes no longer approves most of those oils for use in their modern engines.

Marshall

My cheap oil extractor worked fine (except for the clear 1/2 I.D tubing collapsing due the warmth of the oil). It caused some delays. When finished, I pulled the sump plug and got maybe a cupful of residue. Next time I’m going with the stiff, opaque, white, stiff tubing.

All in all, I think this is the best way to change your oil.

Rather than sticking a tube down the dipstick, why not clamp a hose on the top of the dipstick tube.

This is the way my boat's inboard (Yanmar) diesel is designed. The hose fits over the outside of the dipstick tube and clamps on with a hose clamp. It works great on the boat's inboard.

This is also the way the MB shop sucker works. There's no tube that goes down the dipstick. Instead, a fitting just goes into the very top of the dipstick tube, and pressure seals off the tube so that the vacuum will work.

Not sure about the physics of this, but I suspect it gets as much oil out as any other method.

dweller,

My dip stem in flanged at the top two inches. I just ran-around some duct tape about two inches from the end of the tubing and the suction formed a vacuum that made a seal. Use the stem as the tube.