Wifes daily driver.
The window switch somehow had enough downward pressure applied to bend the tabs that it pivots on destroying the switch & blowing the fuse. I went to a junk yard & took a switch from a 80 SD 116 (actualy I got the whole console cover with all the switches for $45. BTW the JY paid $2000 for that car with a bad engine.) which looks identical, plugged it in & replaced the fuse.
Now all 3 other windows work like they should,except they work also when the ignition is off, but still no action from the drivers window.I did not touch anything except the switch & the fuse.
I took the door panel off. The two pairs of wires that are joined with screws at that plastic thingy are both hot to ground all the time, except when I push the up switch, one pair of wires lose power,& when I push the down switch the other pair of wires lose power.
Is this normal? I've got Chilton, Haynes, & the factory CD. I have not found anything helpful there.
My next thought is that the motor went gunnybag.
What is the best way to get the clip off the actuator arm at the bottom of the window frame? Besides cutting a large hole in the outside door panel. (Hay, I'm high tech now, I got a torch, I don't have to use a mash hammer & cold chisel on every thing anymore.) The window is down about 4 inches now. The cold, rainy season is comming on fast. The wife ( I dunno how it got broke.) rides around the house on a mountain lion, beating it on the a** with a live rattle snake.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Been a lurker for about a year, first post here. This forum is beyond wonderful!
I buy from Phil.
Thank you. Lou

Spent all afternoon & evening on the drivers door. Finaly got my clumsy fingers up in small space at the top of the door where the window died in the almost up position, got the clip, star washer, & the plastic washer off with only a few minor blood donations to the MB gods. Got the the actuator loose, Could'nt get it out, bolted the actuator back in place, took the motor off the actuator using the three small holes.(now I know what they are for) Took weather stripping out of the window opening in the door, took the front window track loose & got up high enough to get motor out past the crash bar.
It looks like the reason for the failure is one of the brushes is sticking. It looks like it is a brand new motor, very clean & very little wear on the brushes.
I'll work on that tomorrow.
Lou

Took the motor apart, used some flint paper to smoth the sides of the brushes, pushed the brushes completely into their holders, used a small drill bit in a Dremel Tool to carefully drill a hole thru the brush holder & brush, used the two next size smaller drill bitts in the holes to hold the brushes out of the way while I put the motor back together, pulled out the drill bitts allowing the brushes to snap back into place.

The window now works like new.

Total cost, $1.14 for new stainles steel screws to go in & hold on the junction block where the wires from the chassis & the motor are connected.

Lou