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#1
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85 300D progress
Well, I finally got the head all cleaned out, refaced the valves and seats, and finally lapped them all in yesterday. I pulled the head first just to investigate. I am now in the process of pulling the rest of the engine. The manual sais to pull the engine and trans as a unit, so I figured I would try it like that. Got everything unhooked any ready to go except the two allens for the engine mounts. I did not have a set of metric allen sockets at home. When I chain it up, what area of the engine is best to get the correct balance in order to have the engine tilt up in order to get the transmission out? I was thinking maybe just slightly forward of the middle of the head.
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#2
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The FSM says to extract the engine/transmission at a 45° angle.
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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm. |
#3
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Why are you pulling the engine?
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#4
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I am pulling the engine because I am going to rebuild the entire drivetrain of this car. The car used to be my commuter but after a year of commuting from Stockton to Sacramento I was burning a gallon of oil a week. Ever since I have owned the car I could hear a slight little knock. It wasnt extremelly loud, but I could hear it blended in with the normal engine noises. I thought at the time that it was probably a worn wrist pin or rod bushing. I decided to drive as long as I could. After I started to rapidly burn oil the level got away from me a few times. After a few months the knocking got very loud. I suspected a bearing, but I always had very good oil pressure. So I pulled the head to do some investigating, I wanted to see if there was a problem with the head or maybe a cracked piston. After getting the head of the only thing I found was alot of valve guide wear, and #5 and #6 cylinders had some scoring. The scoring was not to deep, it should clean up and I will run oversized pistons. But I decided to just rebuild the the whole thing and be done with it. It has about 230,000 miles, I know some go longer and I am not sure if I am building it before its time. But I figure if I do the complete drivetrain now and take proper care of it, I should be good for another 300,000. After it is all back together I plan on repainting, installing the euro lights, and installing bigger rims. I am still undecided if I should run 15" or 17" rims. I was also thinking of painting the car black and tinting the windows. The interior is all black, does anyone think this combo would be to dark? I know I could probaly find another 300D running for cheaper, but my dad gave me this car. He is still around, but one day when I unfortunately can't say that, at least I will still have his Mercedes.
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#5
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Quote:
Edit: just for fun, I checked the price at Fastlane. 1st oversize 5 piston set: $880.69.
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Rick Miley 2014 Tesla Model S 2018 Tesla Model 3 2017 Nissan LEAF Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro Chain Elongation References Last edited by Rick Miley; 10-14-2003 at 10:24 AM. |
#6
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You said something about piston #6? Is this a 350? Seems I recall there is some stuff about them bending rods and wrecking pistons....
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#7
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Oops, yes he did.
Quote:
__________________
Rick Miley 2014 Tesla Model S 2018 Tesla Model 3 2017 Nissan LEAF Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro Chain Elongation References |
#8
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Ooooops, I did say #6. I did mean #4 and #5, I let the Cummins terminology slip again. Still getting used to the 5 cylinder.
The cheapest set of pistons I found were at importedcarparts.com, 1st oversize for $678.13 Well I chained up and pulled the engine and transmission. Now I need to split them and tear the rest of the engine apart. Are the parking brakes released with vaccum? I could not release it and roll the car back. |
#9
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The parking brakes are cable operated. You may need to look underneath the car real good and see if something is in the way of preventing them to release.
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Jim |
#10
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No just a little cable operated brake drum inside the rear discs. If all else fails, you can loosen the cable some more at the adjuster under the car. Driveshaft is above it.
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#11
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Yeah that parking brake situation is weird. Never had any problems before, it always worked perfect. Maybe I have the trans. linkage or something hitting the cable.
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