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Old 11-16-2003, 04:49 PM
greasy griddle
Posts: n/a
300sd center console

OK, I've been searcing for days for the right answers, but nothing quite exactly like what I need. A lot of great backround and general info though. I love this forum!

So, when I first bought this 81 300sd turbo, in april, the rear right pass window didn't work. THen miraculaously it did work and I forgot that it hadn't worked before (funny those tricks of the brain). So, a couple of weeks ago I put the window down a few inches, and voila, now it won't go back up. I know that I should try to lsee if a wire is broken at the door hinge, but my friend had just fixed something similar in his 300d, and so he pried up the center wood panel and popped the center switches out to test, look, at them.

So, it's not that switch, but now I have a problem with the center wood panel being out of place too! So, i took out the ash tray and 2 screws to try to slid it or something and now how do I get the radio all the way back in under these two black plastic holders on the sides?

AGHHH! It's getting worse and now I want to know exactly step by step how to

1. Put radio back in properly (this is good because my radio sucks, only AM so now I might replace it myself)

2. fix center wood console which is pried up right now (this is in nice shape how can I keep it this way?)

3. get into boot at door (do I carefully pull one of the rubber rings from the hole its in? I don't want to mess anything else up so I'm nervous at this point. THe best thing about this car is that it looks really nice for 81)

THanks for help!

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Old 11-16-2003, 06:02 PM
greasy griddle
Posts: n/a

OK so I was able to pull the center cup out and pull the center console wood panel up. My friend with his "help" has busted the plastic bracket that the wood piece is glued to. Also the plastic bar across that the shifter cover is screwed to is broken also. ANy ideas on how to get a new plastic bracket to reglue the wood panel to? WHat kind of glue to use? and how to replace the center piece?

PS can i use a test light to see if the switch has power? How would I hook it up?
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Old 11-16-2003, 06:39 PM
jbaj007's Avatar
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Santa Monica, CA
Posts: 2,053
The center plastic bar is cracked on all the early 126 cars I've seen. Pieces missing on many. Couldn't get mine to hold with any type of adhesive. Even tried plastic "welding" with the old solder gun attachment. Doesn't seem to matter that much. Still looks nice when all together.

The brackets (great friend you got ) can be glued with a cyanoacrylic (superglue) gel and held with a medium spring clamp if the fracture is within the plastic itself. The only place I know to find them is from an old piece of console wood at a wreckers'. If it has pulled out the little metal "teeth" from the wood, then you have to get some E6000 Craft adhesive (Michael's) and work the glue underneath the bracket the press the "teeth" back into the wood and clamp. Use a towel to protect the finished side or you'll really get mad.

As far as putting the radio back in; I am NOT advocating this method, but I give mine a good thump and it "clicks" in past the two verical plastic strips on either side. If it's the original Becker, loosen the scew retaining wedges on the radio sides.

The switches are rebuildable with a lot of springs and ball bearings inside (work over a large white towel on a bench or table) and almost always work after being tended to. If you remove the accordian boot at the door to check the wire, the boot will be destroyed on an '81. Check continuity another way.
The Golden Rule

1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later)

Last edited by jbaj007; 11-16-2003 at 07:03 PM.
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Old 11-16-2003, 07:02 PM
greasy griddle
Posts: n/a

Does anyone know how the wires go in the window switch? A diagram or number coding would be helpful. I don't know how to figure out which one is the power.

ANd also how do I get that boot off? Or are you saying I have to take the door panel off and get in there?

I've taken each switch out, both front and back, neither work, and the window doesn't work when you switch switches, so I think it's got to be a broken wire somewhere, and the door hinge sounds like the most likely place.

Last edited by greasy griddle; 11-16-2003 at 07:18 PM.
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Old 11-16-2003, 07:32 PM
85drtysthbenz's Avatar
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 387
sometimes my windows dont want to work right....and theyre always staggered,meaning the front left and back right will go,or either front right and back left will go...usually not just one window....there are some relays in the fuse box that i can just wiggle around or take out and put back in,and it solves my problem...maybe that could be your problem...if it is, that could save you from messing with those switches in the car is an 85 300sd by the way
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Old 11-16-2003, 07:48 PM
MikeTangas's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: So. Cal
Posts: 4,430
This link might be helpful to your cause
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.
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Old 11-17-2003, 05:44 AM
greasy griddle
Posts: n/a
epoxy please work!

Ok so I've epoxyed the little hooks on the bracket on, and hopefully they'll be strong enough to hold. Back to the original question though, how do I find out where or what is causing my window to not go up? It's not the switch (I haven't actually opened either center console or door switch, but the plug connections on both look completely clean and shiny), and I don't really feel like it's the window motor because it sounded fine and then a few minutes later didn't move. Gut instinct tells me its a broken wire or some other electrical problem, especially because it is intermittent. WHere exactly should I look for a broken wire or bad connection? How do I get into the door boot without breaking it or access those wires in another way? I'm trying to borrow a voltmeter... I think that would help, but I do have a test light now. It's not the fuse or child lock either.
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Old 11-18-2003, 03:21 PM
greasy griddle
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Old 11-19-2003, 01:50 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: NE Okla
Posts: 1,104
As far as I know the only way to get to the inside of the "boot" is to gently pull it loose from either the door or the door frame. However it will be very difficult to put it back and will likely tear when being removed. The voltmeter will be a lot of help at the switch end and could be at the door end, if you get the upholstery panel off. As noted above, the windows are paired diagonally on the relay / fuses. Also the console switches often go bad from dirt and soft drink drips into them. They can be opened and cleaned, sprayed with contact cleaner and put back together with good results. A CD or printed manual will give you the wire colors for the hot line and the up and down wires.

1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150
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