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#1
10-08-2003, 02:14 PM
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Strong Nailing- Update
I have some great news, bad news, and good news.
I ordered some parts. New Balo PC, seal ring, and ring collar. Great news: Installed them without any problems at all. Started with no ill effects. Runs much smotther at idle with very little shake (Before it would shake the entire car at a stop light). The rest of the RPM band is silk smooth Bad news: The nailing is STILL there!  Good news: The nailing is "duller". It does not sound like a hammer nailing a nail into oak, but like a hammer hitting a piece of oak minus the nail. It blends in with the other engine fireing sounds but is still clear that something is still there. The injection opening in the PC is much larger in diameter than the stock PC. It did not conflict with anything though. What I did notice is quite a lot of BLACK smoke under no load. Especially in the upper RPM range. I will take it for a test drive later today to look for any odd sounds or smoke. I still would like some input as to the condition of the old PC that I posted pictures of in the first thread. Thanks for everyones help! I still have a way to go since it's still there. I just hope it's not the piston or a bearing! 
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#4
10-08-2003, 04:36 PM
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I think he if refering to the Pre Chamber that the injector and glow plug sit in.
I wonder if it would be worth changing mine out in my 85 300d in order to smoothen out the idle just as it did for him? It isn't too bad right now, but there is body shake when warm at lights in gear and I have done everything this board has suggested to rectify it. Have fun, Adam Bush
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#5
10-08-2003, 06:05 PM
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I rotated all 5 injectors onto the #1 cylinder with no change between each. Since there was no noticable difference between them, I saw no reason to have them pop tested. All 5 were replaced with remanufactured ones last month. Testing the delivery valve seals will be the next action. Would I take it to a Bosch dealer to have it tested and can it be done in-car? I might as well pop test the injectors anyway while I'm there.
I drove around for a few hours with some good results. In highway driving it took much longer for it to reach 95*c @ 10psi boost. Smoke was less than before at all ranges and is gone completely at idle when it's warm. The nailing is still present but is very hard to hear above midrange (3000rpm+). Here is the origional thread for those who are not up to date. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=74137&highlight=strong+nailing
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#6
10-08-2003, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Adjust valve lash to PROPER clearance. Check, clean, rebuild, or replace the injection nozzles. Check the EGR (If opperational  ) to see if it's stuck open.Properly adjust the camshaft / injection pump timing. Do these, if still rough, then it might be worth the cost.
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#7
10-08-2003, 06:49 PM
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Prechambers don't wear out. They're either OK or they're damaged. You can inspect them visually, however I'm not sure if you can properly inspect them without removal. Removing them requires a special lock-ring removal tool (aka "pin wrench"), and then a slide hammer with adapter to attach to the p/c and beat it out of the head. About $150 to buy both, or you can fabricate them if you are very creative with metal fabrication.
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#9
10-08-2003, 08:07 PM
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The rack damper pin also figures into idle smoothness.
If you can isolate nailing to a cylinder, crack the fuel line to that cylinder (the car should continue to idle on 4 cylinders) and see if the noise subsides. Sixto 95 S420 91 300SE 87 300SDL 83 300SD
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#10
10-08-2003, 08:42 PM
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sgoodhart,
Yes, the p/c's are almost indestructible. Rather hard to damage them during R&R unless you strip the threads for the puller. They're steel and/or iron, easiest method of cleaning them up is with a sandblaster or bead blaster. They're beefy suckers. New ones are something like $50-$70 each, although used is fine, go scrounge some from Pick & Pull if necessary - pretty easy for 617 engines (as long as it's the same model year & engine - early/late, and turbo/nonturbo, p/c's may be different!!!) 
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#12
10-09-2003, 11:53 PM
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My Tool
When I installed the new precombustion chamber I also removed the exhaust (Straight pipe) to listen for any unusual exhaust notes. I do hear an odd puffing or poping kind of sound that occurs with the nail. Today the sound of nailing seems back to the pre-newPC level.
I have finaly got a picture of my homemade PC removal tool (Slide hammer). The parts I used: Bicycle crank puller: $19 1/2" nut: $0.09 1/2" bolt 12" long: $1.12 Three 2" diameter washers: $0.25 10" diameter disk brake: Junk forom my garage Weld the 1/2" nut to crank puller: $18 I spent $40 on my tool, much better than $150 MB wants for what is basicly a standard slide hammer. The crank puller matches the PC threads perfectly, no crossthreading or diameter problems.
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#14
10-10-2003, 01:36 AM
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Quote:
I used a cold chisel 
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#15
10-10-2003, 12:39 PM
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Nice! Baum Tools sells the adapter for about $40, and the slide hammer for about $40 - that's where I bought mine. But yours only cost half of that! And it worked, which is the important part.
 The pin wrench is also about $60-$70 from Baum or P.P., and possibly Samstag. Some of the OE MB tools are too expensive, and that's one good example. For others, there's no substitute (like the IP RIV tool). Just remember that your local dealer usually does not have the best price on OE tools! I've found Caliber Motors has the best price, followed by Rusty. There's a place in Germany that has even better prices (speed-autoteile.com) but with the lousy exchange rate & international shipping, the savings is minimal... maybe 5-10%? Just an FYI...
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