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  #1  
Old 11-28-2003, 11:59 PM
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Simplified 240d vacuum layout

I am in the process of converting my 240d to stick, and it seems like the ideal time to simplify the vacuum layout under the hood.

1. In looking at the layout in the manual it seems that the “vacuum control valve” (circled below) is used only to control egr vacuum. Therefore with the egr disabled this can be removed right?

2. I assume the “vacuum control unit” (square outline) is the shutoff control, correct?

3. What is the remaining vacuum unit for on the top of the ip (arrow)?

4. With the auto gone and the egr gone can the lever cam and vacuum control unit on the top of the valve cover now be completely removed?

Thanks for any assistance.

John

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  #2  
Old 11-29-2003, 01:51 PM
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1. yes
2. yes
3. this is the altitude compensator do not connect to vacuum, leave as is.
4. yes, this is why i have the 4spd. model they are so simple..............these answers are for 79-81 240d manual, others should be similar

good luck with the project
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Gretchen 1981 240D 4-spd 213,000 mi
1979 240D 4-spd 298,000 mi parts car

1994 BMW 325is
1991 Dodge turbo diesel
1997 ford expedition

BILL
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  #3  
Old 11-29-2003, 05:53 PM
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Hey, someody stole your oil cooler!
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  #4  
Old 11-29-2003, 11:05 PM
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Thanks for the answers.

Yes the engine is out, I pulled it to clean up and paint the engine compartment (I changed the color of the car), and I am attempting to sound insulate the firewall. I will post my result to the diesel noise thread when I’m done.

Yes I have bypassed the oil cooler. I almost lost the engine when my wife came home from a short trip and pulled into the garage with oil squirting out of a corrosion hole in the cooler. I think another 30 seconds or 1 minute and the engine would have been toast. At the time I researched whether or not you could simply close off the outlets, but the answers were not definitive. Hence the bypass. I offer the following points as to why I didn’t purchase a new one.

1. Costly and a somewhat risky system.
2. I live in a temperate climate (Toronto Ontario)
3. The A/C has been removed
4. Now the auto is gone which lightens the cooling load further.

Thanks again,

John
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  #5  
Old 11-29-2003, 11:22 PM
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this would be a good time to install a block heater, before the engine goes back in............also you may run into some engine vibration issues when changing to a manual trany, the flywheel is suposed to be balanced with the engine
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Gretchen 1981 240D 4-spd 213,000 mi
1979 240D 4-spd 298,000 mi parts car

1994 BMW 325is
1991 Dodge turbo diesel
1997 ford expedition

BILL
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Old 11-29-2003, 11:33 PM
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Thanks, it has a block heater. I think they came standard up here.

I did do some research on this balancing issue, which has been discussed here a number of times. I am relying on a source I believe to be reliable, that noted all 616/7 engines after 1977 had the engines and flywheels balanced separately. In my case both the donor and recipient are early 80’s. This would seem to agree with the anecdotal information that balance problems have not been an issue with this change (as even the pro’s have noted).

John
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Old 11-30-2003, 11:58 AM
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jcwells

The 240Ds that stayed in Germany did not have oil coolers. There are folks on this forum that have put many miles on their Euro 240Ds in hot climates W/O oil coolers. My conclusion is that they are not needed and only a potential source of problems as you found out. Sounds like you were indeed lucky on that one. I have several sets of OCs and hoses that I have taken off 240Ds if anyones interested.

Your car really looks great.
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Old 11-30-2003, 01:47 PM
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stevo

did you just use a short bypass hose? or cap the lines that go to the oil cooler. i dont use the a/c ,it robs too much power,so i think i can do without the cooler also.......
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Gretchen 1981 240D 4-spd 213,000 mi
1979 240D 4-spd 298,000 mi parts car

1994 BMW 325is
1991 Dodge turbo diesel
1997 ford expedition

BILL
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  #9  
Old 11-30-2003, 02:23 PM
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wgreen

I had the filter housing w/o the threaded holes, ones that were used on Euro cars. I am rebuilding a 616 now and will use a filter housing with the threaded holes so I will look for the appropriate threaded plugs, which I think would be the safest way to do it.

Steve
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  #10  
Old 11-30-2003, 02:33 PM
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Bill & Steve;

I never got a definitive answer that the lines can simply be capped. Therefore I just used the end fittings and cut a short section of the hose as the joiner. I did have to bend the fittings a little (using a torch) to get them to line up.

If it is now known for certain that the lines can be capped I’ll just hammer the 2 stub pipes closed and braze a nice seal on them. It would look a lot neater and would be very safe.

John
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Last edited by jcwells; 11-30-2003 at 06:33 PM.
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  #11  
Old 11-30-2003, 04:20 PM
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jcwells


On the Euro cars the casting for the o/f housing has two places that could be drilled and tapped for the o/c lines. So I would assume you could just plug the threaded holes in the non Euro o/f housing.
Steve
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  #12  
Old 11-30-2003, 04:56 PM
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John,

Nice looking project. Was it tan before ?

Since this thread has evolved from the subject of vacuum to oil cooler lines...

I would not recommend plugging off the oil cooler lines(stubs) unless you remove the filter housing from the block and remove the oil cooler thermostat and spring. Otherwise, if your oil does ever reach 95c and up, the thermostat will start to block off much of the direct flow to the filter and open the line to the cooler, which will now be blocked off. Oil will still get by, but I visually estimate the restriction at about 80 to 90% . The therm. is easy to remove and is the safest way to go IMHO.
Brad.
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  #13  
Old 11-30-2003, 04:57 PM
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looking at the factory engine service manual, it looks like no problems from capping off the ports to the cooler.
the cooler lines send unfiltered oil to the cooler when the thermostat in the housing opens, then the oil returns directly to the filter for filtering.......
so it does not send oil to the cooler, unless oil temp gets high enough.
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Gretchen 1981 240D 4-spd 213,000 mi
1979 240D 4-spd 298,000 mi parts car

1994 BMW 325is
1991 Dodge turbo diesel
1997 ford expedition

BILL
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  #14  
Old 11-30-2003, 06:50 PM
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Well on the oil cooler issue I rest my case This is one area you need absolute certainty. Since I don't need to remove the housing I'll leave the bypass in place.

Yes the car was tan with the palimino interior. The metalic red (Cadilac Allante) was always a color I liked and it works with this interior.

I posted a thread on the detailing forum about how I sprayed it:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=77190

Thanks

John
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  #15  
Old 11-30-2003, 08:40 PM
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jcwells

You might consider removing the o/f housing and replacing the gasket which is a potential leak and a PIA if you have to do it with the engine installed, unless you already did it. Thats a good point about making sure you will not restrect oil flow if the temp above 95C. I think it would be good not to have a bypass sticking out and more tidy to just plug the holes tho.

Steve

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