Looked at an 82 300SD today. Thinking it might be fun for a highway trip driver. It has 188 thou on the odometer. One owner, straight with a few squawks:

a. tach doesnt work

b. driver's window wont go down

c. hood needs repaint (paint dead)

d. a/c blows correctly, just not cold

Interior is nice, trunk is immaculate, radio works, etc. Car starts and shifts out well. Seller wants 2500 obo, is this a ballpark? are the faults listed common?

Sounds good to me. Tach is fairly easy to troubleshoot, window might ba a PIA, hood can be swapped or repainted, and a/c is an unknown without further troubleshooting.

If it's got good power and little rust, then $2500 sounds like a good deal.

Others will chime in if they catch anything I didn't.

I'm tackeling the same front window lift problem for a friend on his 82 300sd here in dallas saturday at 3pm... I've done the rear driver's door on my car and I suspect it is the same problem

on mine it was this little plastic slide that broke, part # 126-720-01-42 (a $10 part at a dealer at list)... I suspect it is the same on the car I'm working on this weekend.

A/C - that can get expensive depending if the prior work / service was done correctly. I suggest using a good independent. Since I see you are in Fort Worth, I'll mention that I used www.nineeleven.com here in Dallas - not the cheapest - but mine now works like a dream! All they work on our Porsche and Mercedes

on the tach I did a quick search... I've read stuff on this before... "The gist of the cheap fix is to stuff something springy but not conductive between the case and the board of the tach amp (round spin-on thing behind the left headlight). I used felt furniture foot pads." .... it's a pretty common problem

If you get the car - get a subscription to:



trust me, if you buy a 300sd and you want to know just about every trick in the book for the do-it-yourself person (how do you think I learned how to do the window lift!), a subscription is a must

__________________
~shell
As of 2/2010:
2001 CLK55 0o\=*=/o0
13.6 @ 106mph
10K mi
1984 300SD
260K mi and going and going...
97 S600
46K miles
1991 Sentra SE-R (extremely dorked with)
www.se-r.net

I bought my 81 SD about four years ago, those are all common very fixable problems with reams of info in search about this model. I did those items plus new belts and hoses, front calipers,brake pads,rebuilt front suppension,tires,new windshield,ect.
My SD is a wonderfull trouble free car now once I got the basics done, but you should remember it a 22 year old vehicle and if the rubber and suppension parts have not been replaced they are suspect.I did all my own work except alinement so the cost was parts only........

William Rogers.........

74 240D
81SD
86 Euro 500SE
81 Blazer 454

A/C could be spendy. If it still running freon, that costs $$ to recharge anymore. But there are others here more qualified to talk about that issue.
Other then that, if it's rust free, as it probably is in Texas, sounds good.

__________________
past MB rides:
'68 220D
'68 220D(another one)
'67 230
'84 SD
Current rides:
'06 Lexus RX330
'93 Ford F-250
'96 Corvette
'99 Polaris 700 RMK sled
2011 Polaris Assault
'86 Yamaha TT350(good 'ol thumper)

If it does, get a compression check before you buy, even if it's not regular for diesels. I just got suckered that way in APril. Still I'm in love with MB (my first), and need to save enough to buy another one.

I think the market is about $2000 for this car with the non-functional Air Conditioning. Maybe less considering its for sale in Texas without A/C. That's the reason its for sale at this time of year. And $2000 only if the leather seats and interior are in very good condition.

But of course we all have our different valuations on cars.

Ken300D

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--------------------------
1982 300D at 351K miles
1984 300SD at 217K miles
1987 300D at 370K miles

This is right on the money. It sounds like the car could be fixed, and these cars are quite DIY friendly, but the A/C can be pricey. The good news is that the evaporators on these cars arent suspect the way that they are on 124 and especially 140 chassis cars. If all those vacuum pods for the climate control need replacing, you're more than likely going to have to pull the dash. That's a lot of time if you do it, or a lot of money if someone else does.

Driver's window also could be motor, or if you hear the motor, the window regulator. On mine the motor bowed the frame over time so that the gear teeth no longer made contact. Easy fix, afternoon fix but the new part was about $120.

Obviously, a PPI is a good idea. If you do, try to see it on the lift so you can look underneath also. This will help you evaluate the condition of the suspension rubber parts.

Also, in checking for rust, be sure to check in the truck, at the top. The rear window seal often fails, and water leaks in. You may have to lie on back in the trunk to see it.

Good luck.

__________________
Tjohn

82 300 SD
77 450 SL (gone)