Hello, I'm looking for some advice on changing the motor mounts on my recently acquired 1982 300TD, 235K.

I took out the air filter housing, cleaned it out, and put in new mounts because the old ones had decayed. When I looked down at the passenger side motor mount I saw that it was not in good shape.

I hear that it is easy to change the motor mounts. Any advice out there? Would it be less of a hassle to bring it into a shop with instructions and have someone else do it? Is there any other maintenance that I should do while doing the mounts since I am going to be under there anyway?

Thanks,

Jared

Never done them on an MB. I am getting ready to do them to my w116 chasis. I will tell you how it goes, which won't be for another week at the least. Do a search, I'm positive people have commented on it because I've seen them.
Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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Jared,

Try a search on motor mounts (someone here will eventually correct the terminology as they are really engine mounts, but they are routinely called by the wrong name, so use motor mounts when you do the search) as this is a subject that comes up quite frequently. I did my 240D and 190E 2.3-16 in the last few years and wrote some of my experiences up to help others. They, in turn have added their experience and so this topic is generally well covered, including the tooling and step by step procedure. Good luck, Jim

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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

If I remember correctly, the passenger side is actually the easier side to do. There's more interference to getting a wrench on the bolts on the driver's side.

But I should mention that the best policy of all is to replace them both at once. And really you should do the engine shocks and shock mounts on both sides at the same time.

But I understand doing just the one part if it looks really bad. For some reason people throw away the shiny aluminum plate that covers the rubber mounts. Don't do that, it is a grease/oil shield, and grease/oil destroys the mounts. If you don't have them, go to a dealer and get them for next to no cost.

The bolts on the mount are released, and then the engine can be jacked up with a hydraulic bottle jack under the oil pan. Use a wide board to spread out the jack load against the oil pan. Watch the fan clearance against the radiator - you may have to remove the top half of the radiator shroud.

On the driver's side of my 1982 300D, I found that the joker that replaced the mount didn't replace the two top bolts - it was just sitting loose on the mount. The bolts are available at the dealer too.

Much nicer to have fresh motor mounts and engine shock absorbers - and an upgraded rack dampener pin on the injection pump.

Ken300D

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1982 300D at 351K miles
1984 300SD at 217K miles
1987 300D at 370K miles

Ken,

Thanks for the tips. I am looking for those parts now and hope to get the job done asap.

Best,

Jared

PS Got this done at a great shop in Montreal.