Front Spring Removal - As I thought, simple without special compressor - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

R Leo · #16 01-12-2004, 04:15 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by BIGRED
I won't be getting to re-building the rear for awhile, but intend to drop the entire sub frame assembly including the rear end. I see no difference in the rear. Unbolt everything and raise the body until the springs can be removed.

Don

It will be interesting to see what happens when you remove those front subframe bolts with the car sitting on all fours.

You might think about having someone standing by to go for help...ya know, just in case this doesn't work out quite the way you've planned.

#17 01-12-2004, 08:34 AM

I have followed the method using the floor jack under the lower control arm on a 123 and managed to live to tell about it.

I can say this, it was much easier to get the spring out than to put it back in. You can do it, but it's a real wrestling match.

Have a great day,

BIGRED · #18 01-12-2004, 08:39 AM

R Leo,

I will be raising the car enough to support the subframe with jack stands. Once the driveshaft, hoses, forward subframe bushings and differential mounts are unbolted, I will raise the body high enough to remove the subframe. I think I will need help, because of the weight, however I am thinking about a location at my home where I could secure a couple of come-alongs to move the whole assembly out from under the car.

At least that is the plan.

Don

R Leo · #19 01-12-2004, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by BIGRED

I will raise the body high enough to remove the subframe.

Hehe...you'll be raising that car so doggone high you're gonna need oxygen.

Just be careful when you remove those subframe bolts.

jim16671836 · #20 01-12-2004, 10:36 PM

2 weeks ago I finished completely stripping down a 1980-123-240D...I removed everything from the car that was removeable(bolted and screwed on) except the front and back suspension...I removed the axles and differential and while I wanted to do something with the suspension I didn't have a spring compressor so I left those componets alone....I then took the stripped chassis to a friend's salvage yard and he used a large fork lift with 6' forks to lift the car up so I could remove the wheels. I was removing the wheels when low and behold one of the rear springs fell out. After removing all the wheels I then popped the other spring out....I have a 126 that I will try to raise to see if the back springs will fall out(I have already removed the differential and axles).I have a pipe and pulley outfit and I am going to use a 8K pound winch to take up a small amount of compression after I have removed the front shocks. it might be a month or two and I will report back to the forum...Jim

gsxr · #21 01-13-2004, 02:46 PM

Removal will be a lot easier than re-installation.

ALSO! As a warning for others! This procedure may work in an emergency for the 126 chassis, but that DOES NOT mean it will work - or is not dangerous! - for other chassis, like 201, 124, 140, etc. Rusty rents the proper compressor for about $75 plus S&H. Is risking your life to save ~$100 really worth it? I guess for a lot of you, yeah it is.

BTW - here's some photos of the Harbor Freight type cheapo compressors on a 124 spring:

BIGRED · #22 01-13-2004, 04:56 PM

I will shoot some pictures when I do the other wheel. I think it will make clear how simple and safe it is to allow physics to work for you. This assumes one is alert and competent in using automotive tools in the first place.

I agree, if you are planning to try and pull the spring as the first component in your suspension tear down DO NOT USE the cheap stuff. I am sure that is where people get into trouble.

But I have to ask. Why pull the spring first? Why not last so that you can unload the compression without any compressor?

I can't imagine MB uses a Klann when they assemble the cars, but maybe they do.

Don

gsxr · #23 01-13-2004, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by BIGRED

I can't imagine MB uses a Klann when they assemble the cars, but maybe they do.

Don

Now THAT is a good question. I'd love to know the answer...

jim16671836 · #24 01-13-2004, 07:23 PM

I would imagine that things will get real quiet until we find out if they use a spring compressor....Maybe someone has a short video that could clear up the question...

driad_98 · #25 04-03-2004, 06:34 PM

Thanks for the cool thread, BIGRED.

lietuviai · #26 04-03-2004, 08:29 PM

I wonder if BIGRED ever got around to doing the other spring? He hasn't posted anything in almost two months.
I hope all is well.

BIGRED · #27 04-03-2004, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by lietuviai
I wonder if BIGRED ever got around to doing the other spring? He hasn't posted anything in almost two months.
I hope all is well.

Thank's for the concern. I have not had time to tinker with my cars for a long time nor to post. Trying to keep life together as some rather hard issues showed up.

Don

lietuviai · #28 04-03-2004, 11:03 PM

Life is more important than cars. We'll see you around when things are better for you.
Take care Don.

Pete Geither · #29 04-04-2004, 07:31 AM

Just last weekend I R & I'd both front springs on my SL. No big deal without any special tools. Have also done all 4 springs on a 210 body, again, without any spring compressors. As Larry said, sometimes it can be a bit of a wrestling match to get the spring back in, but with the right pry bar and lots of leverage, one person can do it.

Diesel911 · #30 07-17-2014, 03:35 PM

I was shocked to find this old Thread that details how to remove the Front Spring without using the Klann Type Spring Compressor and using the Free Rental Strut type Spring Compressors.

This Thread is from 2004 and I was not a Member until 2007.

No one has mentioned this thread in the 7 years I have been a Member.

The First time I removed the Front Springs from My W123 I used the Harbor Freight Strut Spring Compressors and got away with it.
Both times I compressed the Spring as much as I could with the Strut Type Tool so I My case the Srings were unders a lot of compression. (After bending them I made a strong Spring compressor to finish the Job.)

The next time I did the same I again used the Strut type Spring Copressors but bent them up in the process.

In this thread the Key to using the Strut type Spring Compressor is that you are going to minimally compress/tension the Spring and you need to have the Lower Control Arm hanging down far enough to get the minimally compressed Spring in and out safely.

Not covered in the thread but I think if your Lower Control Arm Bushings are 30 something Years old bending the Lower Control Arm down as far as you can brings up the possibilty of ruining your old Bushings.