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#1
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interesting engine degreasing find
Hi,
I am interested in getting oil that has dripped from my filler cap to the #1 and 2 injectors, drip from around the injection pump, and also the turbo oil drain tube clean, and then degease the underside, where all thoise drips and dust, etc stick. I also own a BMW, and found that the 'official' instructions (http://www.sts.sae.org/servicetech/nov-2001/bmw.htm ) for it is to NOT use any sort of steam degreasing, but to instead warm the engine to full operating temp, apply a degreaser, then rinse with [warm] water. I am curious about this for our 617 diesels. I live in an apartment without any car washing facilities. The closest carwas is about 7 miles away. No matter how easy I drive, the car will be up to temp by then. I worry about even if I let it sit for 30 minutes, that things like the IP and manifold will be hot, and the sprays can crack such items. At the same time, when driving in hard rains, I have to imagine roadwater gets splashed up on some of these things, while driving at full hot temperatures. So is it OK to lightly spray water onto stuff like the valve cover, IP, block and oil pan if the engine isnt fully cold, or even if the engine is at full coolant temp? Apparently BMW thinks its OK, and gasser engine exhaust manifolds, etc. ought to be hotter than our diesels. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, JMH
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#2
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In general you are trying to keep from subjecting the engine to sudden, extreme temperature changes. Cold water on a warm engine is not good, neither is warm water on a hot engine. You're probably safe though with cold on a cold engine or warm on a warm engine as long as the relative temperatures are not very far apart. If you see steam rising when you rinse STOP! On occasion I have used Simple Green on a warm engine (not hot as it will all evaporate and do little good in cleaning) then rinsed with a few buckets of hot/warm water without harm. You especially don't want to douse the IP with cold water from the hose unless the engine is stone cold. The more precision the part, the more susceptible to damage from sudden temp changes as the different metals rapidly expand/contract at different rates. Also be careful of areas that tend to be hotter than the rest of the engine, like the exhaust manifold. Your bucket of warm water may be fine on the block but cause a problem when poured on a much hotter exhaust manifold. Just exercise a little judgement with the above in mind and you should be OK.
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LRG 1987 300D Turbo 175K 2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul 1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold |
#3
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I just recently hit a snowdrift that was across the road in whiteout conditions. The drift was about 3 ft high. Car didn't stall but all the engine lights came on, to eventually come off a few miles later. I opened up the hood when I got to work and saw that snow was packed around the engine compartment up to about the IP. Didn't do any harm to anything.
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Denis 1979 300TD 189,000 Miles, now running WVO with a home-made 2 tank conversion 1974 230 Gasser 189,000 Miles, For Sale 1961 VW Microbus 162,000 Miles 1961 Ford Fairlane 500, 53,900 original miles 1951 Oliver Super 55 Tractor 2002 Chocolate Lab |
#4
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The amount of heat transfer from a stream of cold water (Garden hose) poured directly on an IP versus a splash of cold water or a pile of snow that almost instantly melts at the contact surface is very different. The soaking from a hose is a very effective heat sink. That said, these are pretty robust engines so they're not likely to have a problem unless you are really careless.
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LRG 1987 300D Turbo 175K 2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul 1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold |
#5
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Cleaning Engine:
I have cleaned at least15 diesel engine {MB}. With spray cleaner, like Gunk. It is basically Kerosene. Then used a car wash to wash it off.
All of this {don't do it hot} theory is just that. If these car are that delicate then the next time it rain's better pull over the water may damage the pump. This is up there with ether will damage a pre-chamber thinking. Can anyone say that cleaning the engine or using ether has caused damage. And show pictures or repairer receipt to prove it. We are working the machinery hard by keeping it cover with oil.Plus harder to spot leaks. Charles Mitchell |
#6
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I agree, but I would try to keep water away from the electical parts. They obviously CAN get wet... but be careful to keep the water to a minimum on the electrical stuff. On a gasser I'd be concerned with the entire ignition system... But we don't have to worry about that nonsense here!
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1984 190D 2.2 Auto 220k 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport 70K 2004 Lexus RX-330 ??K 2005 Chrylser Crossfire LTD 6K Play guitar? Go to www.cyberfret.com for free online lessons! |
#7
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I believe that Mr. Mitchell is asking for first hand knowledge of damage to our precombustion chambers from using starting fluid or damage to our MFI pumps from washing them down with water
when they are hot/warm. Anything less than first hand information is hearsay. We have some very sharp working techs on this board as well as some very bright and logical novices (or non professionals if you prefer) that share their experiences with us. For that, we should all be grateful.
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You can get farther with a smile and a gun than you can with just a smile. 1984 300D 1985 300CD 1980 300SD 1993 SL500 |
#8
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add some new parts
try a new oil cap for the valve cover and an updated breather tube and that will help with your leaks.... as for the oil return under the turbo - you just have to replace that to make it stop making a mess
for more engine detailing stuff - this might help as well (I wrote this article for the nissan guys) http://www.se-r.net/car_info/clean/detail_engine.html here are some more diesel engine pics: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=79692 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=79278
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~shell As of 2/2010: 2001 CLK55 0o\=*=/o0 13.6 @ 106mph 10K mi 1984 300SD 260K mi and going and going... 97 S600 46K miles 1991 Sentra SE-R (extremely dorked with) www.se-r.net |
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