Hi,

Has anyone tried installing 0 gauge battery cables? I read on one of the archived posts that VW people sometimes do this to make sure full power is going to the starter, and apparently it helps it crank to the best ability of the starter.

I am curious if this would be as successful in the MB, and if anyone has done it. I assume one can find 0 gauge battery cables somewhere, and if so, where, if not, how would I make my own?

Thanks,

JMH

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

Could work. But have you ever known Mercedes to pinch pennies. They would have used the 0 guage starter wire if they felt they needed it and past the cost on to you.
I would use a stock wire but install a new one. After a couple of decades the wire will deteriorate and the contacts may not be that good due to corrosion. So just replacing the OEM wire may be all you need.

Dave

__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

this is true... but in 99.5% of the situations where these cars will be starting, it will be either temperate (over 20F), or the car will be plugged in. So 6 or 4 gauge wire is more than adequate.

I live in an apartment with no such option to plug the car in, if I wanted to. So I need to do anything that can help. Above 20F, it could be any temperature, 20F or 120F, and the car starts exactly the same. Its just when we get into single digits (Ive never been down below zero with this car), that I have a bit of problem, and think that a faster crank would help... Again, not a situation that at all would be typical or necessarily designed into this car, besides the fact that the car has a heavy duty starter and big battery capapble of many cycles.

Good point about the oem cables degrading... I didnt really think that they would do that, but it makes sense.

JMH

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

If you want to, I would try it. It will only cost a couple of bucks for the wire.
I'm afraid that your problem is that your getting into a operational limitation of the diesel engine. Getting a diesel started below 20F requires a few Items.
1. Yes, a good starter, if the starter sounds like its spinning up normally then you probably have the most you can get out of the starter system.
2. A good glow plug system, usually cycled twice ( wait for the relay to click off, you can hear it) for hot glow plugs. Good glow plugs with reamed holes so the glow plug heat can make contact with the fuel.
3. Adjusted valves.
4. Good compression.
5. A warm battery will give you more amps but if you had that you would probably have a garage and a block heater. (In the Air Force reserves we had to remove the batteries form the C-141 aircraft if the temp was going to be below -44F. The batteries produce less output the colder it is)
6. Yes the dreaded block heater. I understand your situation.
7. It may help to use a cetane booster to help the fuel ignite. Truck stops carry this along with other diesel fuel additives.

As a meteorologist I understand that everyone in the NE has had to deal with the record cold weather. But this is a rare occurance. Many records were broken. Those records were over 100 years old. So do you want to do all that work for the chance that you might break the record again. Next winter may be a record breaker for the highs. I would tune your glow plug system, ream the holes, check the glow plugs for wear, replace the glow plug fuses to make sure they are getting a good voltage. Then I would adjust the valves, check all connections for the starter electrical wires, add the cetane booster, and then figure that the chances of the record cold is pretty slim. Don't work your tail off for something that happens once every 20-30 years.
Its like winters in the DFW area. We get alot of ice. When it happens I don't have a set of studded tires or chains. I just don't go anywhere. You don't want to. Too many Texans think that as long as I have 4 wheel drive you can go in the ice. Its funny to see all the trucks in the ditches. But whats interesting is how many luxury cars you see in the ditches vs. cheaper cars.
Well I've rambled enough

Good Luck
Dave

PS Take the car to a local shop and have them check the battery. just to make sure its putting out fully.

__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

i did that on my 240 d. the old cables were original and the corrision had started down the cables. the rubber had pulled away. when i cut the rubber away the green stuff was 18 inches down the cable on both ends of both cables. i went to an automotive electric/ battery place with my old cables and they made new ones to match the old. cost like 45$ for both cables.
JOHN M