sls height adjustment procedure - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#1 01-21-2004, 02:42 PM

Ok,
Got my new shock mounts in without a hitch, mechanic flushed and refilled with hydraulic fluid for me but noted that ride height in the back is a little low.

I replaced the spheres myself this past summer so I know that the system is functional, I just need to adjust ride height.

When I start the car in the AM the rear end does not come up at all, which it did prior to having the shock mounts done.

I need to know how to adjust ride height in the back via the SLS controller unit. Anybody out there have it on disc that they could send me the .pdf's?

I know that you're supposed to measure height at the jack points, but what are those measurements supposed to be?
Are they in my factory manual?
Thanks in advance, I did do a search on this topic but couldn't find anything solid.

R Leo · #2 01-21-2004, 03:10 PM

Supposedly it is procedure 40-310 in the FSM.

#3 01-21-2004, 03:39 PM

I've made this adjustment several times, but I just adjust until it looks right, I don't measure and set to any spec. I simply loosened the bolts that clamp the control lever to the sway bar and move it until the car looked right and retightened the bolts.

Good luck,

lrg · #4 01-21-2004, 03:46 PM

Shawnster,
Like Larry, I've just adjusted my height by eye using the control valve adjustment link. I'm not sure the exact height is that critical.

By the way, how was it replacing the shock mounts? I've never done this and am thinking about doing a subframe bushing/shock mount replacement to tighten up the rear a bit. Any advice? Thanks.
LRG

#5 01-21-2004, 05:38 PM

1st of all I knew that at least one of them required replacement because of the slamming noise coming from the rear whenever I went over even a small bump.
I ordered 2 rebuild kits, one for each side, from the local MB dealer for $22 each.

The procedure was thus, according to my mechanic:

Acess the top of the shock through the back seat/trunk area. Remove the retaining bolt. Remove the hydraulic fitting. Lower the shock down enough to place the new "donuts" in, then mount shock and reattach the hydraulic fitting.

They were nervous that the fitting on the shock might break but I assured them that if it did I could get a new shock overnight if absolutely necessary.

No problems, they only charged me $70 total for installation, including the hydraulic fluid and putting all the panels back in the trunk nice and neat.

It's made a huge difference in the way the car feels over bumps, much tighter and quieter.

#6 01-21-2004, 05:39 PM

Do I do this with the engine idling?

lrg · #7 01-21-2004, 06:00 PM

It's tough to do with the engine on since you really should do it with the car on ramps so the car doesn't accidentially lower and squash you like a bug. For me getting the adjustment right when it's on ramps was tough to do. I adjusted mine by using a floor jack and stand on one side so I could get under to car and do a trial and error adjustment. Each time I lowered the car off the jack stand and started it up to see how it looked. It took me three tries to get right and IIRC the adjustment on the valve is not very sensitive so it took a fair amount to move it. I don't remember which way is which on the adjustment but if you study the torsion bar and drop links you can figure it out pretty easily.

Thanks for the info on the shock mounts.

#8 01-23-2004, 12:18 PM

What tool(s) are needed to adjust at the sway bar?

lrg · #9 01-23-2004, 12:24 PM

There is a link that attaches the sway bar arm to the leveling valve. It works a bit like a turnbuckle where you release a couple of locking nuts and turn the center to lengthen or shorten. All you will need are a couple of small open ended wrenches, not sure of the sizes but I'm guessing around 8-10mm.

#10 01-25-2004, 11:22 AM

so I cannot be sure that it is even grabbing the torsion bar.

in addition, i had my wife turn the car on with the rear loaded up with sandbags, while i was observing, and i failed to see the lever move.

although the mechanic assured me that he flushed and refilled, is there air in the system that i need to bleed out using the bleed screw?

if i'm going to use the lever instead of the turnbuckle to adjust then how do remove it at the 2 ends?

R Leo · #11 01-25-2004, 11:41 AM

First of all, the system is self bleeding. No need to do anything but fill, run the engine and recheck the fluid level.

Chances are the leveling valve is crudded up and not working right or the arm that's attached to the sway bar is loose and isn't actuating the valve.

Back the car up onto some ramps and get under the back with the engine running. Disconnect the self leveling linkage from the valve and move the valve lever up and down...the back of the car should gradually move up when you move the lever one way and back down when you move it the other direction.

On my wagon, the arm that attaches to the sway bar was loose and not moving the valve arm. I tightened it and then had to adjust the ride height...right after I did this work, I noticed that, periodically, the car would not always level when started up the first time of the day. I could go to the back, bounce on the bumper and it would correct its self. I also noticed at the time, that the valve seemed to have a detent that caused some resistance to it's smooth movement. I can't imagine why it would be designed that way so I'm guessing that there was some gooky stuff in the valve that had to get flushed out. It's been about six months since I had to do the bumper bounce...I think it's OK for now.

Eventually, I'm going to replace the accumulators, rebuild the actuator valve and do a flush and fill on the system for preventative maintenance.

lrg · #12 01-25-2004, 11:45 AM

The system is self bleeding so you don't need to bleed. Try detaching the adjustable link and with the engine running push the lever on the actuator valve by hand. Make sure the back of the car is well supported on ramps and the wheels blocked to prevent it rolling off the ramps. You should definitely see some movement when you move the lever up and down but remember, at idle, it moves slowly. Once you are sure the valve is working, if necessary you can adjust the arm on the torsion bar (the one that runs across the car parallel to the axle) that attaches to the adjustable link. This sounds vague but should make sense when you're under the car.