Starter on 85 300D

[NCDiesels]

I'm trying to replace a starter on my 85 300D. Of course, I don't own a lift, so I have it on jackstands as high as they'll go. I have a stubby allen wrench (10mm), but can get my big a!# hands up in there and get any leverage to break the bolts loose. Are there any special tools that are sold to help with this? On a lift, I could probably get to it better, but that's not an option.

Any help or advice will be very much appreciated.

Thanks.

Jerry

Just my opinion,

Let a pro do that one. It is a pita to get it out. I tried for over 4 hours with no luck. my mechanic charged me only 125 to remove and replace my part. Bosch rebuild

I know that it was the cowardly thing to do but they got the tools and the lift for a reason.

Good luck

bob c

[NCDiesels]

I've worked on this one for a couple of hours already. Thanks for your input.

Jerry

[adamb]

After removing the airfilter asembly, I use a long 10mm box/ open wrench combination in conjunction with a 10mm 3/8 socket that is 2 inches long. Preferably, the 10mm allen portion is free from the 3/8 insert and you can fit it into the upper allen bolt in the starter. Then, position the 10mm box end of the wrench onto the allen which is inserted into the bolt and pull up hard. Once it's broken free, you can move it about 90degrees a turn with the open end and have it out pretty fast.. The bottom one is good to get with the 3/8 drive 10mm allen with a ratchet. Can be out in 20 minutes once you've done it a few times no problems permitting.
Good luck,
Adam

It took me a while to change the starter in the 300CD, but after you figure it out, it only to change them... I ended up pulling the alternator on mine, in order to get the old one out, and the new one in...

[Ken300D]

There's some good information in here on this job. If you want my particular experience then search on "starter" as the subject and "Ken300D" as the member name.

The easiest removal to me seems to be the following:

Front of car up on ramps. Jackstands will kill you.

10mm allen socket, 3/8" drive. Universal joint, 3/8" drive. Socket driver extensions, 18-24" total. 3/8" driver, or better, 1/2" with 3/8" adapter.

Snake the extensions with universal joint and allen socket on the end up by the transmission, about half the way back along the passenger's side of the transmission pan. Fully seat the allen sockets into the bolt heads. Clean bolt heads of gunk if necessary.

To drop the starter I found the steering dampener (shock absorber) needed to be undone at the passenger side end.

I did this job twice. First was a used starter from EBay. Within two months it exhibited the exact same problem, spin but no catch on flywheel.

I can recommend the Bosch rebuilds sold here on FastLane. Not extremely expensive and well rebuilt.

This is not a bad DIY job with the right tools and tips.

Ken300D

[adamb]

Within two months it exhibited the exact same problem, spin but no catch on flywheel.

This is exactly what happened to mine after I replaced it. Go figure - the original lasts 19 years, then The "rebuild" lasts 2 months?

I'm learning more and more what all the old salts here say, "If it aint broke, then don't fix it!"

Cya,
Adam

[BobK]

I found removing the air cleaner and the battery with tray gave me room to get at the top bolt with a 1.5 inch long piece of allen wrench and a 10MM box end wrench. Only way I could get a good enough bite on the bolt to loosen it without rounding out the bolt head. Bottom bolt just comes out with allen socket, universal joint adapter and loooong extension. That way you get as straight a shot as possible at the bottom bolt. If starter has been in there awhile, it won't want to leave.

[kerry]

Ken describes the process well. There are differences between the turbo and non-turbo models due to the location of the exhaust pipe. With the non-turbo 300d, the starter comes out over the tie rod with the wheels turned all the way to the right.
I believe other members have reported that the starter can be removed on the turbo without disconnecting any suspension parts but the wheels have to be turned in order during the process in order to snake it out.

I've got to replace the starter in my 85 td in a few weeks. On the non-turbo, it's about a one hour job.

[NCDiesels]

Thanks everyone. It looks like I'll have to give it another try.

[MBJOE]

NCDiesels, If you want, I could come up and Help you or do the starter change for you. I am only 30 miles down 85-40 in Mebane.

[NCDiesels]

I have my starter off now (it wasn't too bad with the right tools and help). I had already purchased "Bosch Type" reman. from Advance. Now the problem is that the celenoid is on the wrong side of the starter. It looks like it will bolt up, but the celenoid will be right up against the exhaust with no heat shield. If I stretch the wires and make it work, won't the life be much shorter with the heat on the celenoid? I can take the old one to a local company and have it rebuilt for around 125.00 with a 24 hour turn around. Maybe that's my best bet.... any ideas?

Thanks again.

Jerry

[kerry]

I just ordered a starter from Advance for my 85 TD and it arrived with the same problem. Solenoid was on the bottom not the top. Talking to them, they concluded that their database was wrong and ordering a starter for an 84 instead of an 85 would result in the correct one. The called me yesterday and the 84 is in, but I haven't had a chance to go pick it up yet so I can't tell you if it is correct.
That rebuild is a good price, but I wanted the lifetime guarantee from Advance. The 84 was also about $10 cheaper than the 85.

[NCDiesels]

I ordered another reman. starter from Advance. The picture on their system and website shows the correct configuration for the 84 (even though mine is an 85. I'm changing glow plugs and the thermostat and she'll be back on the road......

Thanks for the tips. This is a great forum.....

I ordered my Bosch reman starter from FastLane, and didn't have a problem with it, and it was actually the updated version for my car...