Is there anything special about the bolts holding the axleshaft to the wheel?
 

Hello!

I got my fuel strainer, return line, and vent line hoses pulled today. The fuel strainer was almost immaculate :) and both the hoses are desperately in need of replacement.

However, wihle I was doing this, I noticed that the passenger's side axleshaft was loose. The entire assembly (not just the shaft itself, this includes the "cans" could move towards the differential or towards the wheel. I came to the conclusion that the bolt that holds the axleshaft into the wheel was loose.

So, I pulled the center cap off that wheel and put a socket in there and proceeded to toghten it. The bolt kept turning with some resistance; it was obvious it wasn't torqued. Then, the bolt broke.

As a precaution, I've decided to replace both bolts (I also get to extract the piece of the other bolt...yay!). Will any metric bolt with the right length work, or is there something special about the bolt that dictates that I get it at the dealer or something to that effect?

A quick reply would be appreciated, since I have to go to the dealer pretty soon to get the replacement hoses and O-rings (also pulled the fuel sending unit for good measure).

Thanks in advance! :)

You can put a grade 8 bolt in there and never know the difference. Make sure there is nothing real special about the shoulder section. I don't recall what the stock fastener looks like but I vaguely remember that it had a little longer shoulder length than your standard fastener. Try to match it up at a place that sells industrial fasteners because they should have it. I would not waste my time looking at a Home Depot type of place.

Engatwork is correct. The 20 yo stock bolt appears to be a crappy thing certainly not grade labeled. A new dealer bolt for this looks like it has the grading stamps on it. I used a dealer bolt about 2 years ago. A proper grade 8 bolt will work just fine. I think I paid about $8 for the dealer bolt and a matching grade 8 bolt should cost about $1.50 at a good bolt supplier. HD, OSH, Loews etc will not have this item. Don't bother. I have a hardware store near me that has it in their "The Bolt Room". The shoulder of the bolt near the nut should not be threaded.

When you say the axel could move towards the wheel and differential. What kind of play did you have in the axel that goes into the diferential. Once installing the axel into the differential you are supposed to install a C clip on the axel to hold the axel into the differential.
If you have play at the differential then you may not have the C clip installed or it came off in the differential.

Here is a picture form the service manual. The arrows show were the C clips are and the diagram shows the C clip as item number 26. Check the play in the axel and if it is more than say 3/4 of an inch then you will have to open the differential and check the C clips.

Dave

It was less than 3/4"...and that axleshaft was replaced about 8 months ago, and I made sure that the C-clip was on there good, so I highly doubt that it came off.

I got two sets of bolts from Kragen; both the right diameter and thread pitch, but one's slightly shorter than the original, and one's slightly longer...I would assume that one of the two will fit. Both sets are stamped as M10.9, which IIRC is the metric equivelant to a Grade 8...

Also, I'm almost afraid to ask this :) but is a little bit of play in the axleshaft (between the CV joints, with no movement of the "jugs" on either end) normal? I can move the driver's side axleshaft towards the differential and back maybe 3/8"...not nearly as bad as the old one, which could move a full inch, and the boot still seems okay...

The metal shaft axel should have play in it. As the wheel drops or rises due to road conditions the axel must swing down and up. Since the axel is moving, the length to the wheel becomes greater and less. It is at its least distance when the axel is horizontal. And as the wheel moves to its maximum up or down position the axel is at its longest lenght.
Look at the diagram of the axel in the previous post. The axel end that is in the boot has 6 balls that ride in grooves. There are the outer and inner groves. This is what allows the axel to grow in lenght as needed for the suspension movement.
Your bearings are number 28e
Your guides are grooves are number 28c and 28d, the shaded area.
The distance between the point the number 28f ends at and the shaded area to its left is the maximum the axel could go into the boot or towards the differential. Actually the ball and grooves determine the maximum movement.
So yo will have, and should have slight movement of the axel shaft in and out of both boot sections.


Dave

An exploded view diagram of the ball sleeve setup

Dave

Just so The Warden is clear, once the OUTSIDE axle bolt is properly torqued, you should have NO play between the outside mating surface of the "can" and the wheel. Conversely, once the C clip is installed there should be little if any play between the inner most mating surface of the "can" and the diff. When the C clip is in place AND the axle bolt properly torqued you CAN grasp the axle between the two cans and move it inward toward the diff and outward toward the wheel. This provides the travel of which DMorrison was speaking.

Okay, cool...nice to see that clarified. :) I do know that the cans shouldn't be able to move...but it's good to know that the axle can move without something having been damaged.

Dumb question, but what's the torque on those bolts? I had it written down, but it disappeared...

Thanks!

Its in the Haynes manual. Its not much, I was suprised, something like 25 ft. lbs.

Isn't one of them left hand threads?
 

Just a thought that I seem to remember this from removing a couple of axles off a donor once...

OK
FIRST!! Put this in your favorites. It's the Service CD for the 123. You will need Acrobat Reader, which is free at Acrobat.com

http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/123_DISK2/program/123-cd-index.html

Go to job 35-130. Thats the job for rear axel section.
The torque is dependent on the size bolt you have.

The first version a M12 is 95NM
The second version a M8 is 30NM

A 85 300D should be the second version. Check the service manual for the info.

Then get this conversion program.

http://www.joshmadison.com/software/

Its great for converting quite a bit of things. Like Nm to Ftlb.

Dave

Dave,

THAT was AWESOME. Thanks, Jim