ball joint (safety) - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

pdxman · #1 02-05-2004, 11:08 PM

My 84 300d developed a real pronounced squeek very suddenly yesterday which I knew something was wrong. Stopped at a local tire/alignment place to let them do a free diagnosis and keeping me from getting my work clothes dirty. They said it was the left front lower ball joint making the noise and that the rubber cover was bad. Just to get a price quote, they said the ball joint itself would run $60 and the labor $130 (both just for one side). Seemed kinda high to me for the part. So I went along my way to do some pricing. Fastlane list for about $23 and a MBZ dealership wanted $49. With the help of the archives in this board I am sure I can fix in the near future by myself...

MY question is it safe to drive the car with a squeeky ball joint? Doesn't seem loose enough to fall apart or anything, just very squeeky. It may be a week or so until I can get to it.

fahrgewehr2 · #2 02-06-2004, 12:00 AM

Yes, you are fine to drive. The boot holds grease in the the joint. When the grease is gone, the joint will creak.

The price they quoted you is high. Really high. Are you sure this is for a ball joint? That price sounds more inline for what it would cost to replce a track rod mount or upper control arm?

I leave front-end work to the professionals as I dont have a lift or the proper tools. Don't like lying under the car on my back in my leaky garage either

mike

pdxman · #3 02-06-2004, 12:09 AM

I called them back to tell them the price difference and they said that the price was what the parts supplier quoted them.

They are a very reputable shop. Might be a mistake on their part and mis-quoted me for a later model or something. I'll call one of their other shops and see if I get the same price quote as I'd rather not do it myself either.

Thanks. At least I have some comfort that the wheel won't splay out on me or something.

whunter · #4 02-06-2004, 07:37 AM

Hello pdxman
Someone made a mistake.
That is the price for an upper ball joint.
Have the car checked again.
I do not trust this diagnosis.
Do you have any slop or wander in your steering?
The service writer may have made a typo or not understood the mechanic correctly.
This is a possibly dangerous issue, please get it rechecked as soon as possible.

Have a great day.

whunter · #5 03-05-2004, 08:32 PM

Hello pdxman
what happened?

pdxman · #6 03-06-2004, 12:27 AM

I ordered new lowers from Fastlane for $18 each. Still haven't installed them. Squeeking has gone away and put two and two together and realized it started when we had several days of dry weather here in the pacific NW. Once it got wet again the squeek went away. I hope to install them in the next couple of weeks when I take some vacation time. A local rental place rents a ball joint separator tool for $5 day so I will probably try that. The car drives great as-is with no slop or alignment issues. I'll be certain to get an alignment afterwards.

My other list of up-coming to-do's on my vacation are to replace the motor mounts and hopefully correct some of the engine shake. I have a rattle I believe is from the metal tube that connects onto the air cleaner oil recovery broke away and rattles.
Plus some other small items.

thanks.

DieselAddict · #7 03-06-2004, 12:41 PM

Your ball joint probably just needs to be lubed. But since you already bought new ones, go ahead install them. My 82 300D was missing the boot on the left joint when I bought it 2 years ago and it was squeeking too. So I sprayed it with some WD-40, put some grease in there (gear oil seems to work best) and wrapped it with tape. I probably should replace the joint sometime, but this has been working so far and with no squeeking.

lietuviai · #8 03-06-2004, 03:30 PM

I knew someone years back who used to have a '68 220D (I think that's what it was). He was about to turn into a parking lot when upon turning, the lower balljoint blew out and left him stuck in the middle of the entrance. He had to be towed away as he could not even move the car under its own power. I could imagine it could have been way worse if it happened to him a little earlier while he was on the freeway.

psfred · #9 03-06-2004, 07:10 PM

Steering components usually fail under load -- parking, making low speed turns, hitting something on the highway.

You will need a special tool to get that new ball joint in. Harbor Freight makes one that will work if you remove the boot or make a slightly larger cup, but the balljoint is recessed into the steering knuckle and you CANNOT just push it in straight -- this is why the shop will charge 2 hrs labor. You have to remove the steering knuckle and drive the old joint out (usually easy, just a large drift and a 5 lb hammer), but you need a tool to press the new one in.

DON'T USE HEAT TO REMOVE THE OLD ONE!!! This can warp the steering knuckle, or cause the hole to go out of round, and the ball joint won't stay in place.

Peter

pdxman · #10 03-06-2004, 09:39 PM

Do you think the Ball Joint Tool (the one I mentioned) at the rental place works for installing the Ball Joint also or are they just for removing?

Thanks

whunter · #11 03-06-2004, 10:07 PM

Remove and install with the same tool.

Quote:

Originally posted by pdxman
Do you think the Ball Joint Tool (the one I mentioned) at the rental place works for installing the Ball Joint also or are they just for removing?
Thanks

bjcsc · #12 03-07-2004, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by psfred

DON'T USE HEAT TO REMOVE THE OLD ONE!!! This can warp the steering knuckle, or cause the hole to go out of round, and the ball joint won't stay in place.

Peter

Respectfully disagree. Heating the "cup" of the ball joint itself can in no way impart enough heat to the forged knuckle to damage it. This is of course assuming you're smart enough to only use enough heat (just beyond too hot to touch). When I heated mine to drive them out I could still hold the knuckle in my hands after they were out, it was on the edge of being too hot to hold, but not over it. No way this could damage it IMO.

whunter · #13 03-07-2004, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by bjcsc
Respectfully disagree. Heating the "cup" of the ball joint itself can in no way impart enough heat to the forged knuckle to damage it. This is of course assuming you're smart enough to only use enough heat (just beyond too hot to touch). When I heated mine to drive them out I could still hold the knuckle in my hands after they were out, it was on the edge of being too hot to hold, but not over it. No way this could damage it IMO.

This is a dangerous question.
The OEM state clearly; NO heat, because idiots killed people, by heating the forged knuckle and removing the metal temper.

If you try heating; use a propane torch, it can not get hot enough to affect the metal temper.

P.E.Haiges · #14 03-07-2004, 12:45 PM

I replaced the upper ball joint rubber boot on my '80 300SD many years and maybe 100,000 miles ago. I used no special tools, but probably used heat to get tapered ball joint shaft out of its hole.

Its been OK ever since. NOTE: I used the same ball joint as it was only the boot that was bad. You know: If it ain't broke, don't replace it.

P E H

bjcsc · #15 03-07-2004, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by whunter

If you try heating; use a propane torch, it can not get hot enough to affect the metal temper.

Which is another way of stating exactly what my post stated

, but whatever...