replacing shutoff valve - completely messed up job... what am I missing?

[JHZR2]

Hi,

I got my shutoff valve today, and so am installing it. Nothing is going right. Please assist with any advice you can give. I have read all the writeups in the archives, but nothing prepared me for this. I know Im pretty lousy as a DIY person, but this is ridiculous.

1) It is nearly impossible to remove the old shutoff valve. I cannot get it out, past coming out of the IP. There is not enough clearance to get it between the IP and the oil filter housing, nor to get it between the IP, oil filter housing and heater hose on the other side.

2) There is a LOT of oil in my IP to leak out. It has made a huge mess, and I impaled my hand on the hook on the shutof valve, getting oil in the hole in my thumb.

3) Once I get the old valve out (which I think will require severely bending the heater hose in that area, or removing it), getting the new one will be a big pain. How do I guide it in correctly so it hooks. What am I trying to hook it onto?

4) The old one had three gaskets on it. Everything I read, including the ordering instructions at the parts sites says that two gaskets are needed, and thats what I have, Will this pose trouble? I think the valve was never changed, as all the bolts had yellow paint on them.

Any help or advice would be mostr appreciated. Im at my wit's end for this stupd task. And I dont want to end up with a runaway engine, etc. I will test it thurougly with a lityvac, etc before starting the car, and have a hammer and 17mm wrench at the ready. But with my luck something will still be wrong (if I can even get this back together).


Thanks,

JMH

[JHZR2]

OK, got the old valve out. Nearly ripped the heater hose out to get it, but it came out.

Problem: I can't get it latched on anything. I put it in, and if I pull the whole valve out about 1/2 inch, it catches on something. But, pulling on said 'thing' via the valve doesnt move any of the throttle linkages. Further, pressing on the stop lever doesnt cause air to come out of the valve, nor does it stay in the pressed in position when I seal the valve's tube connection. In the archives I saw that psfred had those as instructiuons to ensure that the valve is in there right. ANy suggestions?

I checked the valve via mityvac, and it works fine, and doesnt leak. Pulling on the valve with the mityvac when it is installed doesnt move the stop linkage either. I cannot envision what to look at to make sure the valve is properly connected, and/or that the car won't runaway when I start it. Thats my fear. Plus, there is only one way that the thing can go in anyway. On the gaskets, the body of the vlave, and the hole on the IP, there is a small notch at the bottom. this corresponds to a small notch on the body of the valve. If the valve isnt in correctly, it wont go through the hole and seat properly. If it is seated properly, will it shutoff correctly?

Any help would be really great, I need to get this back together again, and I thought it would be more straightforward. I must be really dumb.

JMH

Hi JMH.

I haven't done this yet but I found good info
on how to.

Go here:

http://users.vnet.net/w123d/w123d/vacuum.htm

And here(you need adobe acrobat reader for this)

http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/123_DISK2/program/Engine/617/07_1-220.pdf

Louis.

[JHZR2]

Thanks for the link... I guess Im just too impatient... And scared.
The service manual, which was the first thing I looked before ever starting the project wasnt too informative. But I wish Id have found that link (the first one you listed) before starting the job. Its concise and clear enough for me.

I got it on, and even though I didnt trust the resistance I felt as I pulled the valve out, I decided to start the car, after bolting it in, as-is.

I had a 17mm wrench on one injector pipe, a pliers on another, pliers over the soft fuel lines leading from injector to injector, and a big hammer to smash the rest of the pipes to shut off the engine.

It started and was fine!

I think the key is to make sure that the shutof valve is fully seated. As I said in my last post, there is a small bump in the body of the valve, which actually goes into the IP body. Everything, gaskets, metal washers, the IP body line up to that bump. Otherwise things dont go together right. And I found that so long as the valve is installed so that the bump is correctly alligned with the IP body, you cant screw it up.

I was sure I could screw it up... After spending 8 hours on my turbo drain project this summer (which actually was a success, since my current leak at the turbo was never from the gaskets), I have lost a LOT of confidence in my abilities.

But thats that... Thanks for the links, and the job isnt as much of a pain as I thought. Getting tools to the lower bolts holding the valve in is the hardest part.

JMH

[leathermang]

It is wise to be worried about a runaway engine when dealing with this thing... however, one wrench for the injectors and taking the air filter off... with something flat and stiff to block the intake from getting air should be sufficient... would really hate for anyone to have to hit the lines to stop the engine.... even though that would be better than losing an engine to overspeeding....

[JHZR2]

I was scared... and ready to do whatever it took. Id bet stuffing my shirt into the intake and cracking a few of the lines would be enough.

But I had all the bases covered

JMH

[leathermang]

LOL.. I was thinking more like a 6 inch by 6 inch piece of plywood .... I wonder how far a shirt would get sucked in at full throttle..... LOL

[JHZR2]

Anything to stop the turbo from spinning...

JMH.

I'm glad all went well.

I'm sure you know Larrybible!

Here is the link to what happend to
him,and he is a ASE certified Master mechanic.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=58439&highlight=runaway+diesel

So don't assume that it goes only one way.
All went well in your case,but as you can see
it is a good/cheap insurance to check before you
start the engine.

Louis.