So, I am looking at a 1 owner, FULLY documented, Ca Blue Plate 1982 240D. Interior and exterior in EXCELLENT condition, really! The 1 owner has every record for every drop of cluid, changed part, replaced switch, upgraded servo etc...I mean every record! He has EVERY part he has removed from the car, since day one!

Anyway, I am totally intrigued by this car as I want to get a car that I can set some personal mileage records with. So, from an engine standpoint, an ONLY the engine, what should I look for in a Pre Purchase inspection...Leak Down, Compression???

The car, after a drive and 2 hours of sitting, did not have any oil spots. I floored the car in 2nd, all the way to what I would consider redline, NO SMOKE!

By the way, the transmission and timing chair are new as of 20K miles ago. The cams have no flat spots, the blow by is withing reason. At speed, the car sounds great. The idle is perfect and there is no nailing.

So, what should I get checked in the PPI?

Thanks all...

Anthony

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'83 240D (W123) 321K miles
250KM Mileage Award
500KM Mileage Award

'84 300TD (W123) 215k miles
250K mileage award pending

How much are they asking ? A compression test is the real indicator of the overall condition of a diesel.... but specific things can be wrong or worn which do not show up on the compression test..... If they are asking a reasonable amount and it feels as good as you say it does it might not need any more PPI than you have given it ...
However, in general I always suggest taking a car for a PPI to a business which does NOT do repairs at all.... which leaves out your local indy you usually deal with....
Those people ( like Lemon Busters) ... have a check list and will check out the entire car.... which is a good deal in my opinion for what they charge... for typically $100..... a car can have a great engine and look really good.. but have something (for an example) like rust around the antisway bar mount which can take the luster off any MB fast....

How did you determine that the cams have no " flat spots' ?
How did you measure the ' blow' ?

A 240D at redline will sound like the pistons are going to fly through the hood. Maximum speed in each gear is shown by the dots on the speedometer.

Does this car have a manual or automatic transmission?

Anyway, I second leathermang's opinion.

__________________
Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

Thanks guys for the feedback. Well, the blow by test is not too sound as I only uncapped the Oil Cap and reved the engine...also, the cam check was also very rudimentary, I simply felt the first cam with my finger (and a latex glove of course).

Rust is an issue, but the thorough check of the usual breeding grounds showed nothing. I did not have the car on a lift, so not 100% certain on the rest of the car.

They are asking 2000...sounds high, I know, but you would have to see it to appreciate the condition. Not to mention the service records and ALL of the replaced parts...the owner was an engineer at NASA, very anal!

About the Price. I am also the guy that spent 8900 on a '79SD. Many felt this was too high, but look at me. Because of this car (immaculate conditon and very reliable, new ball joints, shocks, tranny, 126K fully documented 1 owner miles) I am looking at a second diesel. I am a brand new convert, having never driven a car more that 3-5 years old, and CERTAINLY not diesel. The overpriced W116 SD, converted me. So, what else can I buy for 8900??...Not much that would give me the same daily driving feeling as my W116!

Anyway, feedback is always appreciated. This board is also a very big reason I converted as well...

AC

__________________
'83 240D (W123) 321K miles
250KM Mileage Award
500KM Mileage Award

'84 300TD (W123) 215k miles
250K mileage award pending

Clutch feels tight...

__________________
'83 240D (W123) 321K miles
250KM Mileage Award
500KM Mileage Award

'84 300TD (W123) 215k miles
250K mileage award pending

I don't think that price is too high if the car is really that good. If it were in Florida, I might buy it.

__________________
Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

Buy it.

__________________
RT


1984 300D---Sold
1995 E420 - 106K - Brilliant Silver Metallic/Orion Gray --- Sold
1984 300SD - 151K Manganese Brown Metallic/Mostly Black --- Sold
1982 240D - 79K - Manila Beige/Palomino---Sold

Sounds good. How many miles?

__________________
2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

So wherr is the car from? Rust belt or below (or coast). There are many areas to check for rust if applicable.

__________________
1984 300SD 326,997 miles and counting . . . No wait, my odometer is still dead

Well, I had to do it! The car is in great shape and the records, oh my god, the records! It will take me 3 hours to go through them. I must have 100 work orders from Von Housen Mercedes in Sacramento, where the car has been since new. The car also has the original metal plates with the original owners name. Also, has the oringinal Ca Blue plates. No rust...had the car on lift and could not find any rust...some surface of course, but NO pitted or corroded areas.

So, I do have some questions...

1) The temp is very low. On the freeway (~60 deg F), at 75 mph, the temp guage is just above 80 degrees. That appears normal. But, lollygaggin' around town, the temp is BELOW 80. Is this normal for a 240?

2) NO Tach drives me nuts. But, I can shift by the dots. However, I have a difficult time picking a gear around town. I guess this will come in time. With my W116, I like to be between 2000 and 2800 aroung town, NO LESS. Hard to tell on the 240D.

3) Should I match revs on the downshift? With no tach, this is a little harder, but doable. My clutch is new as of ~30K miles, so I am not too worried about longevity. But, I am a early Porsche car driver and double cluth and match revs instinctivly. Any opinions?

I am sure I will have more quesitons...thanks in advance.

Anthony

Please excuse typos, I am so excited to dig into the records that i neglected to spell/grammar check.

__________________
'83 240D (W123) 321K miles
250KM Mileage Award
500KM Mileage Award

'84 300TD (W123) 215k miles
250K mileage award pending

Anthony, congratulations on the purchase! I'm assuming you knew the car didn't have a tach before you bought it. Don't worry you'll get used to it. I was the same way... must have tach and that's why I initially avoided 240D's and early 300D's. I've had my 240D for 6 months and no regrets.

I usually upshift about 10 mph below the dots. As you get used to the car you won't even need the dots, you can just shift by the sound, but I still like to watch the dots because I'm anal. The most important thing is that you don't overrev the engine on a downshift. Yes it's a good idea to match revs both on downshifts and upshifts, it preserves the clutch and transmission. No need to double clutch IMO. You'll know when you've matched the revs by the sound and feel of it.

I'd replace the thermostat. The needle shouldn't be getting below 80 once the engine is warmed up unless you live in the Arctic. Also lift the floormats and check for rust. Another common rust area is the area around the hood hinges.

__________________
2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual)

Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL

We must be related but totally oposite. I bought a '80 cream yellow 300 SD at the same time you did (for $1050) and sold it within a month for $2500. Now you say your looking at a 240. That's really odd as I just traded a nice steak dinner for a nice blue 240

Oh you drove yours home and cleaned a spot of the windshield. Mine will be towed home this week

__________________
1984 280SEL, 62,000 miles
Euro model in the USA
1983 300D (Totaled out 10/2004)
New Factory Mint Green paint
Palomino int
1982 240D (Steak dinner for two)