Unless the 240D has been repowered with a 601 or 602...it wouldn't be the first. Januz Batko in Krakow has a 123 with either a 601 or a 602 installed. I posted a pic but it must have been lost in the crash of 05.

__________________
Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

from 1979 300sd ..it just happiness to be just long enough! no cutting needed it will side in about 1 inch on the splines when installed!Works grreat!

maybe i should have done more research before i started. oh well half way there. got the man attached to the 5 cyl. said to myself i wonder if i'm doing this right. will read this post through before i proceed further.

thanks

I have been reading this, and other threads, and am not far from purchasing a 4-speed from a 240D, to install into my 1985 300D. I think (think) I have a handle on most of this, and have previously converted my 1974 Volvo 144 from the three speed automatic to the M-41 4 speed with overdrive, so I have some frame of reference. Having said that, this looks to be an increase in the level of complexity over my earlier effort. From this thread I gather (please correct me where necessary):

1.) It is possible to put a 240D manual transmission into a 300D

2.) The bolt patern on the bellhousing and the engine are compatible.

3.) Modification is necessary to the shifter linkage, crossmember, driveshaft, and pilot bushing are necessary

Questions:

1.) Are there specific measurements available for the modifications?
a.) angle and length of the shift linkages
b.) length, OD and ID of needed pilot bushing
c.) best crossmember to use (240D/300D)
2.) Does anyone have a source for a ready to use pilot bushing (part number perhaps)?

3.) Key lessons learned from the install?

4.) Performance result specifics over time, drawbacks in daily use?

Thank you in advance for any advice or input

WTSane

Holy Thread Revival-Batman!
this is the first mercedesshop thread I ever found, and the reason Yall have been plagued with the panZZee baby ever since

I just happen to be finishing up an installation of 5 cyl turbo and cast
iron 115 4 speed into a 1980 300TD chassis. Here's some notes:
Yes. There are two different "240D" manuals, and they are different
lengths and shift linkage arrangements. All my notes are from an
"early" 4 speed, shipped until 1981, which has cast iron body and aluminum bell housing.

"compatible" is a dangerous word. The adapter plate that mounts behind
the flywheel/flex plate must match the bell housing.

For a 115 transmission, an adapter can be sourced from
a 240D with a 722.1 auto transmission. It has a "raised lip" feature which mates
the bell housing, where other adapter plates do not, but may bolt up.

The 722.3 adapter from later 300SD will not even match bolt patterns, and does not have the lip feature.

Some people just punch new holes into the 240D cross member
to accommodate a 16mm offset between existing holes and the
body.

I didn't think the "flat" cross section of mounting metal was sufficiently strong for a turbo motor's torque,
so i went to the extra length of welding the mounting ears from the 300D/722 member to the center section
of the 240D cross member. which created a box section for increased stiffness.

Yes, use search to understand all these dimensions. In short, 4-1/4" needs to be removed from the shift linkage,
and added to the 722.3 drive shaft. This is the offset of the
transmission within the body shell when compared to a 240D,
e.g. the approximate "extra length" of a 5 cylinder engine.

I shortened a 240D/115 driveshaft front half
to an overall length of 21-1/2", which allows proper assembly.

The driveshaft balancing was originally done as a two piece assembly,
according to the lore. After significant searching among those with
proper two piece balancing equipment, I've yet to find anyone who
can tell me how the angle of offset is set up on a
two piece driveshaft balancing machine to
enable this to happen -- like it did at the factory.

of course, one can feel free to ignore this issue, and perhaps pay for
this ignorance. or not. ymmv.

Note that the transmission is NOT at the center of the body like it is
on an automatic. Its offset around 1" to the passenger side, so the
4 speed cross member is "handed".

This creates an "attack angle" that I think is corrected at the center support.
It raises the question of balancing for this "correction", which I do not believe
has been authoratively explored on this list.

I had no luck finding someone with such setup data. I think a static
balance of both pieces might be "good enough", and this might explain
different experiences of those who have done this conversion. Some
vibrate. So do not.

I am designing an 'onboard' balancing jig to further
explore this issue.

If the driveshaft is too long, the front section cannot be removed for
service without releasing the center support.

My reference car had 1" of excess spline when assembled.

If the driveshaft engagement is too short, some failure risk will apply.
Some people will argue this point I expect.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wtsane a.) angle and length of the shift linkages

There are various ways of accomplishing this detail. Most people just shorten
the threaded end. Sectioning from the middle of the rods retains the rolled thread segment,
which is there for a reason. Attention to rod travel needs
to be paid to do this corrrectly, least the rods interfere with each other's travel.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wtsane b.) length, OD and ID of needed pilot bushing

It must match the crank journal machining, which is reported to change in MY 1985. Best bet is to look it up using your VIN in ETKA.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wtsane c.) best crossmember to use (240D/300D)

240D 4 speed 115 cross member is close. I did look at altering the 722.3 member from a 300D, which was feasible;
but "walls" to allow the cross bolt through the member needed to be added. It has the advantage of a four bolt
mounting, for increased torsional stiffness. Might/might not contribute to
vibrational energy management, which is reported to be an issue on manual
transmission 617.9 installations. Several variations on engine mount dampers
might/might not be needed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wtsane 2.) Does anyone have a source for a ready to use pilot bushing (part number perhaps)?

Several, including Fastlane and the dealer.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wtsane 3.) Key lessons learned from the install?

Listers who haven't done this; or who have taken short cuts, but made it work;
or who don't really understand the variations in inputs/outcome, will claim a particular solution or component
to be "the one that works".

Its confusing, and cost extra time to wade through. But its a necessary
side effect of the "internet" beast.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wtsane 4.) Performance result specifics over time, drawbacks in daily use?

YMMV.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wtsane WTSane

for new members

I thought I would add my experiences with this swap as I encountered things that weren't mentioned in the threads I've scoured in prep for this swap. Hope this helps others wishing to undertake this.

My swap is 95% complete, just waiting for my front driveshaft section to arrive from Germany via DHL.

I have an 84 300D turbodiesel sedan and swapped in an '81 240d all-aluminum 4 speed manual pulled from craigslist donor. Grab everything manual related, including the harness from the shifter -makes wiring plug and play. Make sure to grab the 240d exhaust hanger as well.

First, it was extremely difficult finding any shop that could shorten my 240d front driveshaft section (and I live in the Houston area). This was almost a deal breaker... as I found this out after I had collected all my parts... Beware, and check on this in your area...

I was told by every shop I went that the shaft had non standard yokes and was friction fit welded. Nobody would touch it, the biggest driveshaft specialist in the area did mention a shop in AZ or CA that works MB shafts for limousine applications, but only for other companies, not consumers. $$$

Luckily, I found the correct shaft used from Germany on Ebay for a reasonable price. The shaft measures 52.3 cm from the back edge of the ears to the end where it slips on the splines. This shaft was for a 300d 4spd, which were much more common over there. It is exactly 4 inches shorter than the 240d front shaft.

-Shift Rods: For the all aluminum case trans, the 1-2 and 3-4 rods need to be shortened 4 inches, the Reverse rod only 3.5 inches. 4 would be too much on that rod. I didn't have to bend any rods, I just trimmed a bit of the tunnel insulation for clearance, though I could probably bend the 3-4 rod a bit, but it works.

-Flywheels: Only a racing shop would touch them. Incidentally, both flywheels were off balance the same amount in the same location in reference to the marks. -Bit skeptical about this but no strange vibes even at high revs.

-Clutch line from the slave cylinder needs to be bent upward and outboard as the hose is way too long after the swap.

-Pilot bearing: be sure to clean out the crank surface well (like sanded to a shine). It was dirty from the torque converter and I rushed and ended up ruining a pilot bearing forcing it home.

-Exhaust hanger: I modified the 240d hanger by "wallering" out the brackets outboard trans bolt hole and re-drilling a u-bolt hole to use the 300d u-bolt as the exhaust is bigger. No cutting or welding required.

-Exhaust: No need to remove or undo rubber hangers, there is just enough room to swap.

-Speedometer cable: 300d cable bolts right in, length is just right. Mount it like it was on the 240d, under the trans and in.

-Transmount: use the 300d rubber mount with the 240d Auto Trans support mounted one set of bolt holes forward, factory fit.

Hope this helps!

Cool!

Once you've gotten it on the road, would you mind doing me a favor and reporting back whether you get any vibrations at any point? The two I've heard of are vibrations in 4th @ 45 MPH or below and vibrations at 2200 RPM.

__________________
"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

Will do!

Bleeding the Clutch: I tried the reverse bleed oil can squirter method (Oreillys has these oil cans in stock), but clutch pedal didn't seem firm enough. Tried the passenger brake caliper to slave reverse bleed and same result.

Any one know (240d drivers and swappers) how firm is the clutch pedal supposed to be?? Should it be very firm?? (i know this is subjective) The clutch pedal returns fine, and the resistance is consistant throughout the travel range, just doesn't feel like a whole lot of resistance. With the slave bleeder open the clutch pedal will stay on the floor.

84-300dee, that is a great detailed write up.

There are a few shops that will do the DL modification.
I had a shop in San Jose, Ca. do mine. San Jose drive Line.

There is one I believe in Portland, Or., and I think one in Texas, Thrash Drive line.

Most places get weak kneed when you mention MB.

I did my 85 several years ago, and used the 240 FW. Since then I found a 300D FW.

Let us know how she is running.

Those clutches can be a pain. When I got mine bled, it was a soft peddle.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Thank you!

I can't wait to get her on the road again! Will update and post pics shortly

Well the driveshaft finally came in today from Germany! I installed this afternoon and I just finished with a test drive of my new turbodiesel stick!!!

Absolutely no vibrations in any gear, rpm or load combination up to 70+ mph, or even when intentionally lugging the engine! My speedo is off now by about 5mph slow (65mph on speedo = 70).

I am very surprised by this.

Both flywheels had match marks to crank, but the race shop said they were off balance in the same amount in same location (I doubted this)

The driveshaft fit like oem. It had a white match paint mark on the tail end of it. It is not exactly matched to the 300d rear shaft in regards to its mark.

For reference in looking for one of these on german ebay, it has from the ear end (Green, Red, Green, Green) paint stripe code on it.

I think i'm going to attribute combination of the following as having a great effect on lack of vibrations in my swap:

-The 300d auto transmount I reused was new (anchor brand) (and much beefier than the 240d manual mount).

-The motor mounts are 6 month old lemfoerders (oem).

-The 240d auto 4 bolt mount (much beefier than the 300d auto mount)

-Using oem shaft for the swap.

The clutch pedal is good, it engages at midpoint in travel. It is a softer pedal than i'm used to.

However, I do have some issues:

-It grinds reverse, even when trying to trick it by shifting into another gear then trying.

-It grinds when downshifting into 2nd.

-I have a weird hissing noise when I step on the brake but brakes are firm and perform as before.

-I have to shut down with e-stop. Key off not working now.

Any advise on the above? Thanks so much!

__________________
'82 300TD
'84 300D OM617
Auto to 4spd Manual Swap 716.210
'85 300SD 2.88 Diff (Direct Swap)
W140 HD Rear Springs w/ bilstein shocks (SLS Delete)
'83 300SD Big Brake Booster Swap
Late model 240D Manual HVAC Swap
W124 Outside Temp Gauge
Aftermarket Keyless Entry

'84 300D RIP

That's awesome! You're using the 240D FW, right? Congrats on the successful swap!
On the first two: it sounds like your shift linkages may need adjustment... someone else can probably chime in with more specifics on how to do that, as I don't remember it exactly. There was a thread on it a few weeks ago.

__________________
"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

Thank you! Yes, 240d flywheel.

That could be it, I used 6 small zipties instead of the 6mm tool to hold the shifter arms in alignment, and in neutral one of the arms is very slightly off.

Also of note about this swap, my front end is only very slightly higher and my steering wheel is now only about 2 degrees off to the right. No weird highway handling or pulling. My front springs are probably sagging and old as they are original.

A set of new rear springs ought to make the stance just right.

__________________
'82 300TD
'84 300D OM617
Auto to 4spd Manual Swap 716.210
'85 300SD 2.88 Diff (Direct Swap)
W140 HD Rear Springs w/ bilstein shocks (SLS Delete)
'83 300SD Big Brake Booster Swap
Late model 240D Manual HVAC Swap
W124 Outside Temp Gauge
Aftermarket Keyless Entry

'84 300D RIP