I have searched and found several posts on this topic, but they say that you just undo the 3 screws and take the handle off. One poster had the same problem I have, the handle is still attached by the rod that operates the locking mechanism, or something.

So, does anyone have an easy way of disconnecting this rod, which comes from the key lock and seems to go to a nylon device near the vacuum switch.

I have a friend with the Haynes manual, but I will not get it until tomorrow and I am impatient.

__________________
Tony from West Oz.
Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine.
Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int.
Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine.
Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior


Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly.

Hi Tony,

Us biofuelers are taking over in here eh LOL (Jeepn Moggn Jessup here).

anyway..... if you have the key try turning the lock with it. This should twist the rod and align it with the slots that allow its removal.

I did not have the key (why I needed to remove handle). I noticed there was an arm attachemnt off the white piece to one of the metal plates. if the white piece moved the arm would slide up and out of that plate. When I tried this I broke the arm off. I was just trying to stretch the arm up the slot.

I think maybe I should have tried to find a way to rotate the white piece which may have allowed the arm to slide up and out of the metal plate. I did notice that the white piece rotated after the arm broke off. Im figuring if you can get the arm out of the plate then it will rotate, thus alligning the slots on the rod and allow the arm and handle to be removed.

upon replacing the handle I used the key to rotate the rod to allign the end of it with the slots. It went in fine even with the white piece broken. The handle worked fine too after putting it all back together. Just for good measure I super-glued (well I tried to) the arm back on the white piece while it was still in the door. I don't know if the glue will hold.

I'm sure there is a correct way. Wish I knew it.

__________________
"If anyone knows other lessons I need to learn, please tell me. I'm tired of learning them the hard way".
by JerryBro

The Glow Plug Wait: This waiting period is a moment of silence to pay honor to Rudolph Diesel. The longer you own your diesel the more honor you will give him". by SD Blue

My normal daily life; either SNAFUed- Situation Normal... All Fouled Up, or FUBARed- Fouled Up Beyond All Repair

62 UNIMOG Camper w/617 Turbo, 85 300SD daily driver- both powered by blended UCO fuels

I checked out the 300D CD Manual at http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/123_DISK2/program/123-cd-index.html and found that you need to rotate the key 45' towards the rear, to disengage the locking bar from the mechanism.
I tried the spare key and it worked.
I swapped this door handle to the passenger side of the car. Now the drivers door locks and unlocks with either key.
Thanks for the help Coachgeo.


Now for the Mrs' ignition lock. The locksmith is coming tomorrow am, we have a new barrel and key. I hope it isnt too hard for him. (& expensive for me)

__________________
Tony from West Oz.
Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine.
Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int.
Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine.
Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior


Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly.