Hello!

I took a close look at the metal oil return pipe going from the oil separator on the air cleaner to the crankcase. Apparently, there's supposed to be a bracket to keep this pipe in the right position to properly engage the nipple on the oil separator. However, on my pipe, the bracket's long-gone, so the pipe can pretty much move anywhere. This is exacerbated by my air cleaner mount being broken. I plan to go to an open-element setup similar to the one that TomJ pictured in an earlier thread, and I already have the 240D oil separator, and will probably mount it on the inner fender. Now that I know that the pipe can't really be mounted properly, I'm thinking on the lines of putting the 240D separator on the car now, and blocking off the two connections on the air cleaner until I can afford the components to do the open-element setup.

So, the question here is, what type of hose should I be getting to go down to the crankcase nipple (the one where the pipe currently goes to; I'm going to try and remove that pipe)? IIRC, engine oil will eventually eat through normal rubber hose, and I'd like to not have to replace this.

Thanks in advance! Maybe, after this is done, I'll stop leaving oil marks all over the place...heck, maybe I can even make an attempt at cleaning up my engine!

__________________
2001 VW Jetta TDI, 5 speed, daily driver
1991 Ford F-350, work in progress
1984 Ford F-250 4x4, 6.9l turbo diesel, 5 speed manual
Previous oilburners: 1980 IH Scout, 1984 E-350, 1985 M-B 300D, 1979 M-B 300SD, 1983 M-B 300D
Spark-free since 1999

Hello The Warden
http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&year=1985&make=MB&model=300-DT-001&category=B&part=Air+Cleaner+Bracket
1985 Mercedes Benz 300D Turbo
Part: Air Cleaner Bracket
"T" shaped
See also 617 988 01 11 rubber buffer mount and 617 094 02 20 for buffer mount heat shields.

B1020-47922 Air Cleaner Bracket $43.94

1985 Mercedes Benz 300D Turbo
Part: Air Cleaner Mount

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/quote.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&year=1985&product=B1010-21358&application=000029989
1985 Mercedes Benz 300D Turbo
Part: Air Cleaner Mount
18mm-40mm
For heat shield see 617 094 02 20.

B1010-21358 Air Cleaner Mount $1.89

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/quote.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&year=1985&product=B1010-21203&application=000037784
1985 Mercedes Benz 300D Turbo
Part: Air Cleaner Mount
octagon shaped

B1010-21358 Air Cleaner Mount $1.89

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&year=1985&make=MB&model=300-DT-001&category=B&part=Mount+Heat+Shield
1985 Mercedes Benz 300D Turbo
Part: Mount Heat Shield
Heat Shield Screen
for buffer at air filter
See also buffer 617 988 01 11 and air filter bracket 617 090 01 40.

B1011-21334 Mount Heat Shield $2.23

I do not like the open-element setup.
It is cheaper to stay OEM.
Try your local salvage yard for the parts you need.

Question: What type of hose should I be getting to go down to the crankcase nipple.
Answer: go to http://www.mcmaster.com/ and select the type you like.
Have a great day.

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1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

But in Cincinnati here there is a place...I think its called "Ohio Hydraulics", they are a hydraulic hose job-shop. counter service too =)
They had a selection of various kinda of hoses (from coolant, to air to hydraulic hoses (think bobcat and industrial hydraulic applications
One hose matched very nicely the diameter and pressure/temp/oil ratings suitable for 617 oil cooler hose. that hose would kinda be overkill for you(maybe?) but see if there is a hydraulic hose shop/distributor in your area, call around to find one w/ counter service (I took my two fittings in [the factory oil cooler hose was dissolving] and about 30 mins later I walked out with a 'good as new' hose with properly crimped connectors and everything ready to bolt back up.

-John

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2009 Kia Sedona
2009 Honda Odyssey EX-L
12006 Jetta Pumpe Duse
(insert Mercedes here)

Husband, Father, sometimes friend =)

whunter, thanks for the McMaster link; I can have some fun there

However, I really don't want to stick with the OEM setup. This is for a few reasons.

First, the T-shaped bracket is not as strong as it really should be, and although I've heard that people have successfully welded a second bar to beef up the strength, I see that as a Band-Aid.

Second, I've been living with my air cleaner being partially broken since I've had the car. Maybe it's different when all three of the mounting points are usable (the rear mounting point had broken off prior to me getting the car), but I've been replacing the rubber mounts fairly regularly, and on the center (outboard) one, I get maybe 500 miles of use out of it before it breaks. The mounts may be cheap, but it's an annoyance (especially in the couple of instances where the threads have been damaged prior to the rubber breaking) and in all honesty I'm getting tired of it.

Third, if I were to stick with the OEM setup, I would need to replace my air cleaner housing. There's a nice crack at one point where the housing's been hitting the valve cover, and I'm amazed that my valve cover isn't damaged in that spot. I could get a replacement housing from a junkyard, but IMHO it's more trouble than it's worth, and given the junkyards around here, I doubt that it would be all that cheap.

Lastly, I figure that the more direct of a route the air flow to the turbo is, the better. This may not increase power by itself, except that it may allow the turbo to spool up somewhat faster. It might also lower EGT's by allowing more air to get into the engine. While some open-element setups have the filter going directly onto the turbo housing, I agree that that's not the best setup simply 'cause you're sucking hot air. However, the setup that TomJ had pictured had the air filter offset slightly so that it's forward and to the passenger's side of the turbo, so the air won't be as hot. Also, the filter had a connection so that the factory intake hose (the one going from the "ram-air" to the air cleaner) could be utilized.

So, the open-element setup would eliminate the mounting problems with the air cleaner (AFAIK, I'm not alone in having problems with this setup) as well as eliminating the U-shaped pipe going from the air cleaner to the turbo intake and making for a straighter shot. Do I have my info wrong? Either way, why don't you like the setup? I will admit to not really wanting a K&N filter, but I think that paper cone filters exist; I just have to find one. Even if I used a K&N, I think it's about the same price as the bracket for the OEM setup, and everything else I would need could be gotten pretty cheaply at OSH or the Home Despot. So, given what I would need to replace, I don't think that sticking witht the OEM setup would even be cheaper in the short run, and it certainly wouldn't be in the long run...

Or do I have it all wrong? Not trying to be facetious; I really want to know...

Thanks!