I am replacing the copper sealing rings on the delivery valves on my 1985 300D. After reading this thread on the replacement of these seals for the OM603, I have two questions.

On the OM603 thread psfred says, "Probably a good idea to replace the o-ring on the pressure valve holder at the same time."

The factory engine manual for my OM617 doesn't show any o-rings in connection with the delivery valve. All it has is the copper sealing ring. Am I missing something?

psfred also says that the torque for installing the valves is "20-25 ft/lbs three times without loosening". In my OM617 manual it says to oil the threads and then "torque to 40-50 Nm in one step."

I was wondering whether psfred has a different philosophy in this matter or whether the torque settings are supposed to be different on these two different motors.

Any thoughts?

I replaced the delivery valve of my #1 cylinder. It's a very simple process. Pretty much this: Take things out in order, make sure *NOTHING* gets inside the tube, install all the new parts in the same order, install the valve cap and torque to 35-40nm.

The hardest part is getting the copper seal ring out of the tube. (Hint: Use a clean magnet.)

Like I said, very simple. Just keep everything CLEAN.

Good luck

EDIT: Look closely at the pattern stain worn into the copper seal to see if you are getting a leak past them. The #1 had a small leak past and the new seal made a big difference in power.

There are differences. The 617 has no O rings just the copper sealing ring that compresses in one step 40-50Nm as indicated in MB manual. There are two version of the delivery valve holders with annular grooves, but no O rings in them.

82-300td,
I want one of those copper magnets.

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The Golden Rule

1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later)

jbaj007

"I want one of those copper magnets."

Untill you find one, a s/s welding rod with a short 90 degree bend and ground to a point is what I used. They were really stuck in there Also there was allot of crud down in there too.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Really? How do you prevent the crud from getting down into the injection pump?

Somewhere I read that you are supposed to use the hand pump to pump fuel through and flush out crud from the pump. I tried that last night after disconnecting the fuel lines, but I only got fuel coming out of one cylinder. Should I keep pumping?

"How do you prevent the crud from getting down into the injection pump? "

I was quite surprised to see anything but clean fuel down in the hole. I swabbed it out with a twisted up bit of paper towel. The car had been running fine but a leak had developed, hence the sealing ring operation. It ran fine after with no leak. The "crud" was more like rust colored fuel but it definitely had some little particles in it.

I would think fuel would come out all the valves if you pumped enough. I might hook the fuel supply line up to a temporary container. I have a 5 gal bucket with a "through hull" fitting and a valve that I suspend from the rafters above the car. Makes starting after work on the fuel system a snap. I noticed a while back that when I disconnect the fuel line from the engine, fuel doesn't exactly "gush" out so a fuel source thats ABOVE the engine really helps.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

It seems to me that the IP would have to be turned, by turning the engine, to a certain position for fuel to come out when pumping the primer pump. So you would have to turn the pump to 5 different positions to have fuel come out of all the 5 delivery valves.

P E H

This boys not wrong !

The element is only seeing delivery fuel when the pump is pre tdc on firing stroke....pumping the hand primer will push out fuel and dirt...being VERY clean cannot be over emphasisied(?)

Well, gotta bo to bed now ...ceeee ya.

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[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ]

"A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money."

It's very important to make sure the IP holes and delivery valves are clean but I don't think pumping diesel fuel out of the IP holes is the way to do it. Diesel fuel has lower density than most dirt and thus dirt tends to sink in diesel fuel. Pumping fuel out of these holes may actually bring dirt in. A much better way is to clean around the IP elements before unscrewing them and then clean the sides of the IP holes very carefully with a clean piece of paper towel. I also like to rinse the delivery valves and pump elements in filtered diesel fuel before reinstalling them.

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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual)

Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL