|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
AARGH! Rattling shift knob!
Hi folks-
All of a sudden, my shift knob makes a rattling sound above 1500 rpms or so. It sounds like it is coming from inside the end of the knob itself. It's very loud and annoying. Anyone know how to take it off? Or should I just drill into it with a small bit at an angle that can't easily be seen and inject epoxy or rubber cement into the end of it? It's driving me crazy. I just hold on to it a lot when driving now, because reducing the vibration in the knob pretty much stops the rattle. TIA!
__________________
========================== Aaron '84 300D 267,000 - Running WVO - Rice Bran Oil - Mmmmmm, fishy... ========================== |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Go under the car and replace the shifter bushing. It's a little tricky with the shifter inside the car, but it's doable. Else, just pull the wood trim off and loosed the 4 bolts that fasten the shifter to the body. Then remove the retaining clip from the shifter to the transmission shift rod.
__________________
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel - 4x4, auto, 3.54 gears, long bed ------------------------------------- '92 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel - sold '83 300D Turbodiesel - 4 speed manual/2.88 diff - sold '87 300D Turbodiesel - sold '82 300D Turbodiesel - sold |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
If you find that your shifter is worn or has broken parts, email me, I have the good shifter assy out of mine that I removed when I converted to 4 speed manual you can have cheap.
__________________
1984 300D Turbo - 4-speed manual conversion, mid-level resto 1983 300D - parts car 1979 300TD Auto - Parts car. 1985 300D Auto - Wrecked/Parts. ========================= "If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there". Lewis Carrol |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Its a $2.00 part that has disintegrated and is making that noise. You can replace it without taking out the shifter.
__________________
84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000 84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary) 2002 Explorer EB (wife's) |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
...and **************.com wants $16 for the $2 in small hardware pieces + instructions.
it looks like one way or another I will need to jack the car up. there are at least 4 different items on fastlane that could be what I need. anyone know which is which? none of them look like the pieces of the kit on **************.com. anyone have specific experience to relate on this one?
__________________
========================== Aaron '84 300D 267,000 - Running WVO - Rice Bran Oil - Mmmmmm, fishy... ========================== |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
========================== Aaron '84 300D 267,000 - Running WVO - Rice Bran Oil - Mmmmmm, fishy... ========================== |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
MonsieurBon.
I'm sure the instructions alone are worth the $16. If you have this done at a shop you'll easily pay $50-$100. The parts and parts for the tool are cheap and you should get them(at your local hardware store) to do this job. But,instructions are always better in view then in word. Yes,the people here on the forum are very helpfull and very knowlageble. But remember the saying:"pictures speak louder than words". I have seen poster here that would ask the same question a few times and after a dozen or so replies,the person would still not understand the procedure. I'm positive,that with a few pictures,he would have understood it easier,then he did with those 12 or so written replies. Just my 0.02. Louis. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
I was wrong, the part is only $1.06 at Fastlane. Image is via link below. I just had this done by one of my buddies. Its tricky. He used adjustable jaw pliers, and electrical taped a socket to the pliers. Installation is very simple when the socket is taped properly and everyline lines up. Took him about 4 tries before he got the "special pliers/socket" dialed in.
As a mechanic, if you did this all the time AND welded a socket to the correct pliers this job would take 4 minutes once the car was in the air. http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/J407044817.JPG
__________________
84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000 84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary) 2002 Explorer EB (wife's) |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
So there are two of these bushings required, correct?
One of them can be installed from the passenger cabin, but the other must be installed from below? Or do they both need to be installed from below? I'm planning to do this tomorrow, so I'd like to be prepared. -Aaron
__________________
========================== Aaron '84 300D 267,000 - Running WVO - Rice Bran Oil - Mmmmmm, fishy... ========================== |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Sorry, no advice, but if you find the easy way to do it let us know - I have to do the same thing myself soon!
|
#11
|
|||
|
|||
The exact same rattle at the exact same RPM you stated was solved by a single bushing replacement from under the car. No need to pull the shifter from up top.
__________________
84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000 84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary) 2002 Explorer EB (wife's) |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Argghh.. replaced BOTH bushings today!
I had to cut both of them so I could fit them in their holes. I would STRONGLY recommend making a single slanted slice through one side of the bushing so that you can easily distort it so 3/4 of it can be put in, then the rest pushed in. I raised the car, used needle-nose pliers to remove the clip from the rear end of the rod. Then I cut the bushing, lubed it with dish soap and pushed it in. I pushed the rod through the bushing and pulled the clip on. Then I removed the clip from the front of the rod (MUCH MUCH less room in front), pulled off the little bit of bushing that was left, cut the new bushing, lubed it with soap, and pushed it in. It would go all the way in. I tried different tools, but nothing would fit in that TINY space. I ended up using an electrical wiring cap and pushing it into the hole, which popped the last bit of the bushing into place. Then I pushed the rod through the bushing. Putting the clip back on was a pain in such a tiny space, but I was able to do it use a moderately sized punch to keep the clip open until I could slip it on. WHEW! Now there is NO rattling, and the shifter is very smooth to operate. Hopefully it'll stay like that for 20 years, cuz I never want to do that again. Thank for all your help!
__________________
========================== Aaron '84 300D 267,000 - Running WVO - Rice Bran Oil - Mmmmmm, fishy... ========================== |
Bookmarks |
|
|