Since you mentioned it the other day I checked out some high-temp copper sealant at Autozone the other day, it was only a few bucks. But whether you charge me the few extra bucks or I give it to Autozone makes no difference to me .

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'81 300TD Wagon 355k (Miss Diesel)
'83 300SD 180k
'84 500SEL 190k (Parting it out)

The cost of the sealant that I bought from McMaster-Carr was about $5.00. But, I used so little of it that I would like to find a tube with a smaller quantity that I can purchase at a lower cost.

I'd vote for people supplying their own sealant. I have used Permatex "red" high-temp RTV on all my exhaust discs and have had zero leaks. Most DIY types may already have some in their toolbox, if not, it's maybe $5 tops at the local McParts. Perhaps offer it as optional, for an extra $5 (after confirming the cost)? BTW, I made a disc for my 617, it's the same size/shape as the 603 and is also holding up fine (with red RTV).

Just got done using the red Permatex myself not 30 min. ago.

Pretty much every DIY'er should have some on hand by default so I'd vote to simply ship w/o it. For all you out there that don't have any, sorry....but you'll use it sooner or later.

Chris
'85 300SD

I have to ask...are you sure it'll hold up to the temperature?

A diesel that's being worked hard can get the exhaust gas temps up past 1000°...I don't have a pyro (yet), so I can't say what temps my 617 runs at routinely, but I"m concerned that the sealant won't hold up long-term...problem is, I can't readily think up an alternate

Even if the exhaust on the 617 got up to 1000 F., I'm quite sure that the end of the pipe, where the clamp goes, will not be anywhere near this temperature. The exhaust pipe is at the very end of the manifold, at a dead end, and will be significantly cooler than the actual exhaust that leaves the cylinders.

We will see how it does on the 603 for a couple of weeks. I have several occasions to run the 603 at maximum power for 45 seconds or so to build up the temperature quite a bit.

Brian, my feeling is that if you decide that the exhaust plate requires a special sealant (to withstand the high temperature) which isn't a common retail item, then you should include it and raise the price of the kits accordingly; but if it's something you can get at McParts, then just let people buy their own and have some left over for other projects.

Unrelated question: When the EGR unit is removed, what do you do with the vacuum line running to it? I realize it's harmless to just tape it out of the way and ignore it, but a neater solution would be nice.

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AlexTheSeal: hack mechanic, inadvertent drifting champ, builder of infernal devices, professional epistemologist

'87 300D Turbo, roadtrip mileage champ (for sale!)
'92 Isuzu Trooper, mudder extraordinaire (for sale!)
'82 Honda Silverwing, cockroach of motorcycles
And various boring daily drivers...

I removed all the vacuum lines, solenoids, and feeds completely:



I then replaced the 4-port fitting with this 2-port, and also removed the larger black vent line entirely, cappinf it off back near the firewall, next to the brake booster:

Do you scrub your engine clean daily or something? Man that thing is clean.

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'84 300CD Turbo 132k (Anthracite Grey) - WVO - My daily driver - Recently named coo-coo-coupe by my daughter.
'84 300D Turbo 240k (Anthracite Grey) - Garage Queen
'83 300D Turbo 220k (Orient Red) - WVO - Wifes daily driver

I'm not a certified mechanic, but I did stay at a HolidayInn Express last night.

LOL! No, I replaced the cylinder head in spring 2002 and while everything was apart, I went nuts with a rag and WD-40 as cleaner. More photos are here if you want to check them out... it's much dustier now (15kmi later) but still fairly clean, I have no oil leaks north of the oil pan (knock on wood).

http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_head_replacement/

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Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

gsxr:

Hey....I love your idea about yanking all the associated EGR tubing and other items.

You happen to know what the equivalent plumbing removal would be on a 126?

Chris
'85 300SD

No, sorry, I'm much less familiar with your 1985 OM617 motor. I'd just trace back and remove all the plumbing. As long as it's not tied to the tranny circuit, it can probably come out!

Why install a blocking plate. Just pull the vaccumn hose off and plug the hose.
If the EGR valve is leaking, I can see the need for a blocking plate, otherwise do the easiest first.
That EGR valve is part of the federal polution laws, and removing it could cause you some serious trouble in some states.
I am a firm believer that the EGR valve harms the engine. It lets heated exhaust air into the intake. Reburning the exhaust cannot be good for the diesel. Also, the colder the air going into the intake the better the combustion. Why? Because the cold air is more dense giving the engine more oxygen to burn.

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It looks like you have a problem that the EGR valve is trying to tell you about. Removing the EGR valve is not going to solve that problem!

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Visit my web site and see what it is like living in a Historic town:www.oldsalemhomes.com