I deleted it years ago, probably one of the first to do so. No gains in doing it, it just allows the car to make more noise at low throttle.

I stuffed a 617 air intake tube in there from a W126 car. Worked fine on the SDL

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

See post #293 --- On the W-126, the airflow meter prevents the removal of the bulb on the Euro lights. This necessitates removal of the entire headlight to change the bulb............a one hour procedure. So, although "cleanup" might not be the proper term...........I'd like to get rid of it for ongoing maintenance reasons.


So, my question is....would the removal of the device permit enough room to open the back of the Euro lights for bulb replacement? B.C. and I would probably prefer to NOT have to remove the entire light to change the bulb. Some of us aren't as fast (and limber) as you.

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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint
No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

one hour to remove the headlight.. what are you talking about. I had the us spec light out and everything in 5 minutes and took another 5 of putting the euro in and plugging it in.

Don, the real question is, can you change the bulb by removing the rear cover of the Euro headlight assembly, on the passenger side? It seems inexcusable that MB would design things where the entire headlamp would have to be removed. Sounds fishy to me.

since the W126 300SDL was never meant to have european headlamps they never bothered with the issue should it arise. Also, since the sealed beams are removed from the front anyways.

Definitely. But, I'm not sure how to accomplish this and maintain the air cleaner. Dave offered up the only alternative..........a Euro connection in place of the airflow meter.

HitMan supposedly did it..........but the devil is in the details.

Huh? USA-spec cars don't have sealed beams... they use those awful 9004 bulbs, replaced from the rear. EPC Group 82, subgroup 180, callout 56.

I never noticed that the 126 chassis with OM603 diesel engine was not offered outside the USA. How strange. Anyone have photos of this anomaly where the rear headlight door can't be removed?

Space reserved.

I'll get the photo.

SEE how fast you are? Sheeesh. I bet you can text 75 words a minute while doing that, too. Us older MB enthusaists aren't that quick plus we have a wife (or two ) and kids interrupting us, so we have to look for shortcuts.

Personally, I like shortcuts that I can fix in under 5 minutes along side of the road without using my reading glasses. Darn focal length is about 6 feet now. Anyone got a set of those really long wrenches for sale?

__________________
daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint
No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

Before I got my Euro lamps on, the car is out of town so I can't go look and get updated pics. This is all I got guys.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

I installed euro lights a few months ago. I noticed it was very tight in there and I was worried that the door would not open.

I think I did get it open, but it's not easy.

__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

The door opens fine..........you just cannot remove it and get inside the housing.

Any clues how you did it?

From what I remember I did was just unbolt that metal bracket that used to hold the AFM, seems to me it was 2-4 bolts... probably 8-10mm.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

especially at part throttle, i can maintain 75mph and have to lift my foot almost off the pedal, where before i had to maintain almost half throttle.

I played with the AFM a bit once it was off- the spring tension on the "door" inside seemed way too strong - way too much restriction. Now i have a 3" stainless pipe and a temporary cone filter till i fab up a proper heat shield and cold air intake.
Also can hear the turbo spooling now very nice- but not very loud inside the cabin.

I know I had asked before and - The general consensus of the forum members has been that the AFM is only for controlling the EGR valve which is already blocked off. The vacuum lines are no problem to plug, but what are the electrical connections on the AFM for??

It looks like there is some sort of temp sensor built into the opening. There is one plug with 4 connections in it that attached on the rear side of the AFM facing the passenger compartment. do i need to do anything other than tie the connector out of the way?
also on both the front and back sides of the AFM there were 2 separate vacuum modules of some sort, they each have a 2 prong electrical connection.


Soooo... What are all the electrical connectors for???

Do they need to be closed circuits, when the engine is cold? Air is hot? or could they be cut out completely if i never plan on replacing the EGR NOR the AFM. ???

You already had a cold air intake.

Monitoring airflow. You can lave them unplugged.