Thanks Charlie, but I found all four after the fact of course. I have looked over the other posts that reccomend replacing the heat shields. The online catolag shows 7.5 and 10 MM orifice, what's up with that?

__________________
1984 280SEL, 62,000 miles
Euro model in the USA
1983 300D (Totaled out 10/2004)
New Factory Mint Green paint
Palomino int
1982 240D (Steak dinner for two)

A bit off subject, but here goes.

Driving home at 5:00 pm air temp around 100 degrees. Engine temp started climbing at long stop light. Moderate increase in engine speed and temperature droppen to normal.

Stopped car for a few minutes and it would not restart. I popped lines off, primed pump and waited almost an hour. When I cranked it sounded like it wanted to run so I kept cranking for a long time. It did light up and run fine.

Similar symptoms persisted for a couple of years in my Ford 7.3. (1993, mechanical injection pump, no turbo) finally it wouldn't start when cool. Replaced injector pump for $1,100 and it runs like a new truck.

At least the Mercedes 240D looks accessable. I'm not afraid to R&R the pump if I need to.

Should I have to depress the fuel pedal when starting. It does not start unless I give it some fuel.

1980 240D was bargain priced, and runs like a real sweethart most of the time. I've only had it a few weeks.

__________________
69 220D not running
79 240D parts car
80 240D Beater runs everyday
81 300TD temp disabled cooling problem
82 300SD sweet

I oiled the cylinders, let them soak for a good week. Hooked up a battery and turned her over to kick out any remaining oil. I haven't kicked out for the compression tester just yet. She sounds like there is plenty of wind in each hole. I replaced all the injectors an ran new line, except the end plug on #4. I then pumped the primer pump till fuel was flowing from #4 then capped it off. The starter sounds very week, or maybe week cylinders.

Bottom line the starter is not spinning fast enough to make 123 STEAK FOR 2 fire up.

Signed,
I'm still PISSED at the RICER that smacked my other MBZ

__________________
1984 280SEL, 62,000 miles
Euro model in the USA
1983 300D (Totaled out 10/2004)
New Factory Mint Green paint
Palomino int
1982 240D (Steak dinner for two)

The idea of Diesel for dummies was a way to find the quick tips to see if you can make a runner. In this case there is no hope. But every day is a learning experience, so I will share this with you.


#1 Check for fuel, take off a return line bleed it good replace it with a new one.

#2 Check glow plugs. Interesting, I checked for continuity and for voltage and had both. But further testing with #1 glow plug removed and jumper cables attached it did not work, and no spark when hooking up to power. All the others gave a decent little spark and heated up. Next time I'll check with a jumper wire to the glow plug directly, with the timer disconnected of course.

#3 Easy compression test. If you cranking the engine pull off the crank case vent. In this case you could see the blow by from each cylinder in order. Yes the rings are shot.


Hense 123 STEAK FOR 2 IS DEAD.

__________________
1984 280SEL, 62,000 miles
Euro model in the USA
1983 300D (Totaled out 10/2004)
New Factory Mint Green paint
Palomino int
1982 240D (Steak dinner for two)

FineOlBenz,

Checking blowby is not a very certain means for measuring the effectiveness of the piston to ring seal, or for quantifying the compression. With a 22:1 compression ratio there is always blowby, and, unless you somehow kept track of it over the life of the engine I don't see how you can make a good call on whether it is good, bad or meaningless.

I do not recall what model you are working on, but if its a 240D with a manual you can push start the vehicle. That way you can be assured you have enough rpm to actually start the engine. A Diesel needs a substantial startig rpm or the heat of compression is lost to the block, and, if it is really slow, the normally acceptable rate of leakage past the piston rings becomes too much. With a slow starter, by the time the piston gets to TDC you have lost most of the pressure because too much time has expired, not because the rate of leakage is too high.

I believe the manual also describes a method for pulling an automatic to get it started. As I recall the procedure involves towing the car to a speed of 20 mph (if it is very cold out and the transmission is cold) to 30 mph (preferred speed if the transmission is warm or near normal operating temps) with the transmission selector in "N" and the starting switch (the item the key goes into) in the run position (the position you normally put in to make the glow plugs light, then, after twisting it to engage the starter motor, the spring load returns it to when you let go of the key). Once you reach the desired speed, you stay at that speed for about two minutes to ensure the transmission fluid reaches the necessary pressure. Then you move the shift lever to "L" or "S" depending the vehicle and the letters on the shift lever gate. The car should start virtually instantly, especially if you give the glow plugs a run just before dropping the transmission into "L" but be careful as you have to cycle the key if you "wasted" the glow cycle at the beginning (only turn the key far enough to unlock the steering, then in the 30 seconds or so before you put the shift lever into "L", put the key in the glow plug cycle start, and run position). If it fails to start after about 5 to 10 second, move the shift lever back to "N" to avoid damaging the transmission. A follow on attempt can be made after running at the previously identified speed with the transmission in "N" if desired. This can also be attempted if you have a long hill to run down, which I thought was pretty ludicrous to include in the instructions in the manual - 2 minutes at 25 mph is a pretty long hill. I suppose you could be that lucky.

I have never attempted this with an automatic but have done it with a manual 240D hundreds of times. No need to let it coast and, for what it is worth, I usually run the glow plugs just before I drop the clutch with the car in 2nd gear and moving a little faster than walking speed. A small hill helps a lot. My daughter learned to do this at school, and routinely parked on a hill, facing down (for a number of reasons) and just "pop" started it as she called it.

I would not "give-up" based on what you have described so far. You apparently had a combination of problems, any which might have prevented starting - air in the lines, bad glow plug(s), and a tired starter. Good luck and keep us posted. Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

My 76 240d had been sitting for almost two year at the state DUI impound lot when I bought it at auction.
Got it home and it spun over easily, no compression. Soaked the cylinders for a week or so in auto trans fluid (chevy of course), added fresh fuel and several batteries and alternated wd-40 and a gas soaked rag held very tightly over the intake so it would not be sucked in, finally coaxed it into starting after two days, always stopping to let the starter cool between tries.
Took it for a test drive and have not slowed down or looked back since.
Of course I had to rebuild the starter shortly afterward, not to mention the alternater, all four calipers, pads,etc., shocks, exhaust, front and rear bushings and misc. other things I try to forget especially if you ask about the new windsheild and seal and all new door and trunk seals and rubbers.

Hind sight now tells me you are better off getting the best example that you can afford of the car you want to drive but this has certainly been a cheap education and great hobby, and I have a car I enjoy drivng more than anything new I have driven in years.
Is it worth it? Without a doubt. Give it a fair try before quitting.

__________________
Ncnetman
1959 Chev 3100 Fleetside
1965 Mustang
1968 Torino GT fastback
1969 Ranchero
1974 240d 4-speed -for sale
1976 240d fresh paint- on hold
1978 300cd fresh paint and new rearwindshield rubber
1990 6.2 Suburban 194k-getting a 6.5 turbo
2008 Duramax Silverado
2015 VW Passat TDI