I am going to remove my injectors on my 1991 300D 2.5 and do not want to spend the money for the special wrench unless there are no other alternatives. Is it possible to use a crows foot wrench to remove the injector safely without damaging anything? I do not like to do anything that will comp[romise the integrity of my car.

All you need is a good 27MM deep socket.

Good luck,

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Larry Bible
'84 Euro 240D, 523K miles
'88 300E 5 Speed
'81 300D Daughter's Car
Over 800,000 miles in
Mercedes automobiles

Larry,
I noticed the MBZ tool looks like a deep socket, but has a deep slot in the side. What is the deep slot for? When changing the injector, obviously I have to unbolt the fuel line at the injector, but do I need to unbolt the other end of the injector at the pump or will I be able to push the line out of the way enough to remove the injector. I was warned that these lines are very fragile and once they have been bent, even the slightest amount, the integrity will be compromised.

CJ,

My 27mm deep socket came from Sears; it works fine on the injectors. Also handy for turning the engine by hand from the front of the crankshaft.

I always removed the small braces between the metal injector lines and, after taking the line loose from the injector, loosening the nut at the pump end of the line. It will then swing out of the way for removal of the injector. I suspect it would be imprudent to bend them.

Have a good day.

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Ted
1979 240D
160,000 miles

Ted2222,
At mileage did you change your injectors? Did new injectors make the car any quieter? Did you buy new or rebuilt injectors?
Thanks,
CJ

CJ,

You must be talking about the special tool sold for removing the injector lines. I manage with an open end wrench for that, and use the 27MM socket to remove the injector itself.

Good luck,

------------------
Larry Bible
'84 Euro 240D, 523K miles
'88 300E 5 Speed
'81 300D Daughter's Car
Over 800,000 miles in
Mercedes automobiles

I have flare nut wrenches that I use for fuel lines, but I was just looking at a catalog and the socket has a slit in the side. Larry did you notice if your car was considerably quieter? My car smokes a little bit and it is sort of loud. Diesel purge did quiet it down, but I was told that my injectors are drippping a little bit. The car has 180,000 miles on the original injectors.

CJ,

I installed Bosch rebuilt injectors (acquired from the dealer) at about 75,000 to 80,000 miles. One failed, causing a very loud knock, while in warranty and it was replaced. The replacements have actually been better than the originals.(That has been true of a number of things on my car.)

Yes, the engine was smoother, quieter and smoked less after installing the rebuilt injectors.

Good luck.


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Ted
1979 240D
160,000 miles

Any words of wisdom for me, as I go to replace them??

I don't know the details of your engine, but if it is like mine, there are metal seals beneath each injector. It is recommended that those be replaced by new ones each time the injectors are removed.

Second, I would suggest that you get the torque specification for tightening the injectors in the head and use a torque wrench to get them installed properly. Again, I could give you the torque setting on my engine, but have no idea whether it is the same for yours. Perhaps someone else in this forum can give it to you or the dealer will when you buy the injectors (or where ever you get them).

If it is about time to replace your fuel filters, I would go ahead and do it to try to keep my new injectors clean.

One other thing you might consider; after replacing two or three injectors, start the engine to get fuel pumped into them before replacing the others. This should help starting the engine at the end of the job.

It isn't a difficult project. Just take it easy and it will be done before you know it.

Good luck with it.

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Ted
1979 240D
160,000 miles

Thank for your advice. I have the torque settings and the injectors do come with new washers.

Oh yeah, one more thing. The fuel line is secured to the injectors by a lock nut, but what about theose little rubber hoses covered with cloth, what locks them down on the injectors? I know they are the return lines, I assume they just slip on and they are under very minimal pressure, am I correct?

The open ended socket you are referring to is a 17mm special tool for removing the injection lines. You have to remove the lines from both the nozzles and the pump and lift the cluster out as a unit, don't bend them! The torque for the nozzles is 63Lb./ft. or 70-80Nm. Be sure no foreign matter gets in there when the nozzles are out and for bleeding them, once everything is tightened up you can start the car and crack each line individually (at the nozzle end) and run the car at 1,500rpm for about 30 seconds and then tighten up the fitting and move on to the next one. Once everything's bled out, pour cold water over everything to wash the diesel fuel off and check for leaks (once the water has dried)

I put new (reman from MB) nozzles in my '80 300SD this past weekend as I suspected one was leaking down causing a bad stumble when first started up. But the problem still persists so the next step is to check the dampener screw at the back of the pump (had a quick glance at it today, noticed it was bottomed out--not good) but will probably replace that. If that's no good, I'll throw in a new set of glow plugs which hopefully will cure the starting problem but for the rough idle, I'll have to perform (I hate to do it) a somewhat hilbilly maneuver of adjusting the delivery valves one by one by the "feel" of the engine at idle. Ugh! I'll let you all know how it turns out. By the way, she still cruises at 110 with no problems!

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Rgds,
Aaron Greenberg
MB technician
Mercedes-Benz of Cincinnati
'67 250SE Cabriolet
'77 450SL
'80 300SD
'85 380SE
'86 420SEL
'89 420SEL
'93 300E 2.8
'74 Jensen Interceptor Mk.III
'81 DeLorean DMC12
'84 BMW 745i Turbo

Aaron,

I am interested in finding out the reasons for your cold start problem. Please let us know the results. Have the valves been adjusted? The glow plug indicator light is a diagnostic tool. If the glow plug indicator light shows normal, what is the reason to replace the glow plugs?

Also, how do you adjust the delivery valves?

David

[This message has been edited by be459 (edited 09-11-2000).]

Thanks!