Slow shutdown
 

I've noticed over the last few days in the hot and humid weather that my car takes a few more revolutions to shutdown. It does stop just not as quickly as before. I've looked through the old threads about cars not shutting down at all and replacing the shutoff solenoid, vacuum lines, fittings etc. Is there any chance my problem is weather related or is it might vac to the rescue?
Thanks
Dave

Weather (specifically ambient temperature) can and does make a difference on the severity of vacuum leaks. I would suggest getting the Mighty Vac out and start troubleshooting. My thinking is that the rubber hose parts of the vacuum system heat up and expand somewhat which causes these issues.

I've had the same problem for the past 8 months. First I replaced the shut-off valve on the IP, it took 2 hours and 2 cut fingers, no change, there wasn't anything wrong with it. Then I chaged the vacuum switch on the ignition. That wasn't it either.
Then I unplugged the door lock hose from the "Y" connector and plugged it, bingo it shuts off like it should. But now it takes at least 10min for the vac to leak down on the IP enough for the car to restart... what gives?

Sounds like you either have a faulty vacuum switch on your ignition switch, or the hoses are on the switch backwards.

I pulled the line to the shutoff valve, measured around 23". Hooked it back up, still slow shutdown. Shutdown with the emergency shutdown switch was immediate.

I guess it's the valve. I noticed that fastlane has both a plastic and metal valve. I suppose I'll stick with the metal one. I'll take the old one out and inspect it before I order a new one.

One more question, I remember that the other day I shutoff the engine and for some dumb reason immediately switched it back on. I didn't hit the starter but I switched it back on fast enough that the engine caught and kept running. The problem with slow shutdown happened after I did this. Could it be related? Perhaps the shutoff valve was worn enough that this pushed it over the limit.
Dave

Okay, I'm still waiting for my manual on CD. How do I get the shutoff valve off?

I took of the lock bolt on the side and it's loose but I believe I have to remove a pin to get it out. It looks like a tight squeeze. Do I have to remove anything else?
Thanks
Dave

The MB manual says to remove the ign. lock which is a PITA. To get the clearance to pull it out you will need to remove the tumbler, then get to the set pin which holds the lock in the column....

I changed mine a few weeks ago without doing anything to the lock. Using a shorty phillips head screwdriver (about 2 1/2" long) I was able to remove the two screws which hold the valve to the ign. lock. I removed the lowerdash panel and laid on the seat to get at it, not fun!

Sorry, I meant the shutoff valve on top of the injections pump. How do I remove it without damaging anything?

I didn't get it off yet but I was near a mercedes dealership so I stopped in and paid at least double for the part but I want to get it working this weekend. It's plastic and it has two holes for mounting. They assured me it will fit.

Thanks
dave

Done. It was that brown plastic socket for the three prong electric connector. A little gentle persuasion and it was out. I put in the new plastic one. All is good - well not really. I just finished reading gxsr's thread about removing the ALDA and realized there's supposed to be an o-ring under the shut off valve. There wasn't on the old one and there certainly isn't on the one I just installed.

Oh well. It wasn't too bad. BTW, I didn't remove the ALDA completely I just pushed it off enough to allow access to the rear screw. My ALDA won't come out completely unless I remove those pesky injector lines.

I paid $58 for the valve. Fastlane has two different plastic models, one is $20 and the other is $45. I hope I got the $45 dollar one:)

Dave