Ahhh Sooo.

Thanks!!! Do you guys carry it?

SPECIAL ORDER = we can get it..

Check with your local MB dealer, their price should be $2.00..


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__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

Because I replaced another one today.


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__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

Hello all, I have the rolling in park symptom and a sloppy shifter and my shifter vibrates and rattles. I think i also need to replace bushings. I have a 83 300d. I saw another site had 2 smaller bushings not listed on this site for a total of 6 bushings. What I see here is (2)115-267-12-50-M200 and (2) 115-992-03-10-M36. Is this all i need?
Thank You

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1983 300D Turbo, 150K

I got the 2 bushings on the shift linkage replaced, under the car. That was a PITA to get the bushing in the hole under the shifter. I actually gave up and cut the flange off one side, done. There is actually a hard stop at the gears now. No more rolling backwards or rattling.

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1983 300D Turbo, 150K

OMG I finally undid the damage I'd done to the SD. It started last week when the car slipped out of gear at an intersection. At first I thought I'd lost the tranny then I recalled something about loose shifter links being common in mb diesels.

I got home. Sure nuf, worn front bushing. Gone actually. Long gone.

No biggie I thought, I'd just slip some 3/8" fuel line over the link rod. I have a lot of scraps. So I did it. I should have read dmorrisons post about not putting the neutral safety switch in correctly and it broke just like his as I shifted into park.

I was pretty bummed as I put it all back together and the car didn't start. Rather than debugging I went straight to the forum. Arg, I broke it. A reverse light check verified the bad switch.

So I ordered one. And a new bushing and clip. I felt tight so I rolled the dice on the Vemo instead of the MB at Pelican. It looked pretty good. As I put it on the lock ring fell off. I couldn't get the cable on for the life of me.

So I took it off and made sure I knew how to connect it all together before installing it again. There was a little spring loaded rivet under the locking ring that made it impossible to put the ring back in while it was in the car.

Did I mention there isn't much room? . My neck hurts.

Ok, got it all back in and the cable is locked down. Car starts. Drives and shifts nice. For some reason my car likes to downshift as I slow down to a stop. It didn't do this before.

No harm but somehow messing with the link bushing changed something. Hard to believe it can be the new Vemo switch.

Anyone know how to bypass the switch without going under the car? I'm worried the locking will fail on the cable and leave me stuck. I double checked it and it was locked but I'm just paranoid. I feel like I should come up with a zip tying scheme or put a spring between the tunnel and connector to make sure the dang thing doesn't come off. I pulled on it and it seemed sturdy.

I'm getting too old for this stuff. I may have to just call it a day and buy a cdi. I certainly have saved enough money over the last decade driving these tanks to get something newer.

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles

Forgot to mention. I saw the tools offered online for installing the bushings. I took the link arm off the tranny and pressed the bushing in on a vise with a big socket.

It isn't a big deal taking it all apart.

I guess I wouldn't have broken my switch if I hadn't pulled the link arm.

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles

Ok, nosed around here. Looks like the easiest way to get the car bypassed is to connect 12v to the little terminal on the starter solenoid. I'll toss an alligator clip in my toolkit.

__________________
79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles

I don't remember farting around with my NSS last time I installed shifter bushings. The installation tools available take a 60+ minute fuster cluck session and turn it into a 10 minute slide in and slide out deal. The only thing that may be temporarily removed is the rod from the shifter to the trans and that is only to install the bushings.

__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

Right, because you don't have to. I'm an idiot and I thought I'd take it all apart and bring the link arm into the garage where I have a vise. I didn't buy the custom tools and boy oh boy, I wish I had after I turned a bushing swap into a NSS swap. While taking off the arm I misaligned the NSS toggle that goes through the arm...just like the OP.

Now my transmission has a clunking downshift from 2-1 when approaching stop signs at less than 10mph as I brake. I'm not sure what did this but maybe I bumped the modulator when I was down there and started a leak. I'll need to hook up a vacuum gauge tomorrow and go for a drive.

It looked really easy to just take that shifter arm off rather than buy that plier press tool that I'd only use once. Using a bolt, washer and 17mm socket to press the bushing in May have been a good compromise.

__________________
79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles

This is something I've done on 3 different 240D's I've owned. There are a total of 4 bushings. I've found replacing all bring the factory ride back. The bushings are stiff and I bought a tool from Kent Bergxxxxx which was nothing more than a series of washers, nuts and a coupler which pulled the bushing into place. I recommend highly putting the bushing into a pot of boiling water for 3 minutes prior to installing. Makes installation SOOOOOOO much easier.

Hey,
Apparently he sells a plier tool now. It was $60 with some bushings. Again, a bargain compared to the snafu I made up for myself. But, as I said Im an idiot sometimes.

I'm shocked the bushings in my 4 spd 240d never went out. They get a lot more action.

Anyhow, I just got out of under my car. The clunking shift was the hose that I knocked off the modulator. I'm shocked the up shifts were so smooth without vacuum. Maybe that's a bad sign of things to come. I recall unhooking vacuum gave me some nasty harsh shifts. It was shifting quite well without the line.

Nothing is forever.

__________________
79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles