Ok, how bad are these to do? I've read all the archives about it, but is it really that bad? What happens if I try to take them out myself and the oil cooler gets stripped? What then? What if I can't get the motor mount loose? Where do I get the correct line wrenches? What if I can't get the lines off the oil filter? In an emergency, could I just replace them with hose and hose clamps to get to a mechanic if something goes wrong? I'm nervous about this one! If someone could give me their opinion, that would be great!

Greasy Griddle,

I have changed out the lower oil cooler line on my '84 300SD. It can be a PIA, but mostly if you do not have the correct tools. Believe me the correct tools are a necessity, it is real easy to round those fittings. I would not consider trying this without line wrenches and flare-nut wrenches.

You will need a line wrench, for holding the coupler at the oil filter while loosening the line fitting with a flare nut wrench( I took a 1 1/16 box-end wrench and made into a flare nut wrench or **************.com has some of these wrenches available for sale. ) I don't recall the size of flare nut and line wrenches used on the cooler end.

Also, with the type of fittings used, similar to aircraft hydraulic lines, I have never been able to get any clamp to hold. Are they starting to seep or do you see "wet" oil at the flex line portion? If you see wet oil, it would be advisable to change them as soon as possible.

Was in your area weekend of 7 june. It was Christine's birthday, and she wanted to putz around Santa Cruz, Carmel, and Monterey. We camped in our 83 300TDT. Stayed one night in Scott's Valley and one night at Cowell state park. The weather was absolutely perfect.

I have done this job many times, and it is a PITA even with a hoist which is the way I do it. You don't need any special tools, but good professional tools are pretty essential. As SD Blue says, these lines can spring a leak at any time when they get old. Just think of how many gallons of hot oil gets pumped through those hoses during their life. I've got an 81 SD setting on my car trailer right now, because the lady didn't follow my preventive maintenance recommendations. Car needs an engine. You may want to bite the labor bullet on this one and have it done.

Good luck,
Peter

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Auto Zentral Ltd.

Someone here awhile ago said they took theirs in and it only cost something like $70 or $80 to have one replaced at a shop. I think that included the price of the hose. I have a hose that just seeps a bit at the cooler, and will probably just pay someone else to have the fun. I don't need it

__________________
past MB rides:
'68 220D
'68 220D(another one)
'67 230
'84 SD
Current rides:
'06 Lexus RX330
'93 Ford F-250
'96 Corvette
'99 Polaris 700 RMK sled
2011 Polaris Assault
'86 Yamaha TT350(good 'ol thumper)

Rick,

Do it soon and be careful of aftermarket parts in this particular situation. I'd suggest dealer here. There have been manufacturing problems in the aftermarket lately with these hoses. In fact several months ago some suppliers quit selling them til they got their house in order. This is one place you can be confident with dealer quality. You gotta remember what an OM617 motor is worth.

Peter

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Auto Zentral Ltd.

Peter, what's the labor (hours) for that job? I've been proactively replacing the potential catastrophic failure parts on my '81 SD one by one, and the cooler lines qualify. My indy says they look fine, but I doubt they've been changed in 24 years/120k miles, and I'd consider doing it for peace of mind if it won't break the bank.

I have done this twice now. The 300TD and the 240D. It is a PITA. Not a specialty tool PITA but a labor intensive PITA. I do not have flare wrenches for the oil cooler and oil filter connections. I use regular wrenches and did not have any problems. Large wrenches, but did not have any problems. Make sure you use counter hold on the fittings. You have to jack the engine up after disconnecting the motor mount and remove the motor mount to allow the line to slip out. I found it easier to remove the motor mount arm from the engine block and remove the line that way. towards the rear of the engine.
Why a PITA, you drain the oil and disconnect the 2 lines. Now the residual oil is dripping form 8 points. 4 on the lines, 2 on the oil cooler and 2 on the oil filter. You can't stop this. Also the oil line will have oil in the loop which will drip out when you turn the line. Its just a messy job.
2nd, getting to the fittings is a PITA also. the cooler lines are fairly easy, do it form below and above on the 617 engine ( both are at the cooler bottom on the 240D) but the oil filter, it is best to disconnect the booster vacuum line and some other vacuum lines so you can have some swing room and so you don't break any of the vacuum line fittings.
I brought the lines to a Hydraulic shop and they rebuilt the lines. $27.34 for both lines. Make sure they will guarentee these lines. If they do leak its a PITA again. But that usually shows there confidence in there work. Our local shop has been here for 30+ years. Make sure the fittings are connected in the same orientation as on the old fitting. Other wise the hoses will not connect correctly. Be picky about this with the hose shop. If they are off by 10 degrees make them do it again. Mark the exact top of the fitting with a scratch all or punch. Don't mark the hose clamp tube, that will be removed, The wrench fitting is usually the best spot. Make sure they are aligned when returned.
Installation is of course the reverse. Do not tighten the hold down units until the lines have been connected.
While you have the motor mount out, check it. Now is the time to replace it if it is wearing. Your already set up to lift the engine, so doing the opposite side will only take an hour or so.
give your self a good 4 hours for the job. 6 if its your first time. Be patient and don't be afraid to remove anything that is in the way. I have found it is easier to remove things that are inthe way, then to try working around them.

Dave

__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

PC,

As I recall book time is about 3 hours. While the lines are off would be a good time to replace the filter housing gasket as well. The only other item that comes to mind that I would replace on the 126 for piece of mind would be the radiator before the brittle neck breaks off.

Peter

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Auto Zentral Ltd.

Dave,

Good explaination of the procedure, but since you didn't buy new hoses, you didn't have the benifit of taking the nice fitting plastic caps off the new units and installing them on the old ones to keep the oil in.

Peter

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Auto Zentral Ltd.

I have an 82 300SD that needs an engine as a direct result of a bad job done on replacing the oil cooler line. No, I didn't do it, thank goodness. (daughter's car)

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Dave

1982 300D
352,000 miles

Hmm....well, the nearest dealer is a good 40 miles away, so don't think I'll go to them. And they have a shaky reputation anyway, especially with older models. I'll go to my indie shop, and see what hoses they use. They've done right by me so far, the 3 or 4 times I've used them.
I have a real aversion to black diesel oil running down my arm, so I'm not even going to mess with this job myself.:p Luckily my radiator isn't all that old, so I'm ok there. The PO had a new one put in when they replaced the engine some 45k miles ago.

__________________
past MB rides:
'68 220D
'68 220D(another one)
'67 230
'84 SD
Current rides:
'06 Lexus RX330
'93 Ford F-250
'96 Corvette
'99 Polaris 700 RMK sled
2011 Polaris Assault
'86 Yamaha TT350(good 'ol thumper)

Rick,

Your Indie has to buy some parts from a dealer so just insist that you want dealer parts in this case. Indies must source parts outside of MB to stay in business, because dealer margin is so small. Everybody wins this way including the car owner. If everyone wanted dealer parts only, then stand by for about a $20 per hour labor increase. Labor rates are kept lower because of profit from parts. Take a look at charges in some fields where you are only charged for service, because they have only that to sell.
Peter

__________________
Auto Zentral Ltd.

Ok. Thanx Peter.

__________________
past MB rides:
'68 220D
'68 220D(another one)
'67 230
'84 SD
Current rides:
'06 Lexus RX330
'93 Ford F-250
'96 Corvette
'99 Polaris 700 RMK sled
2011 Polaris Assault
'86 Yamaha TT350(good 'ol thumper)

Thank you for all the replies. I think I'm going to stick with my original plan and get it done professionally. Thanks for the suggestions. I have too many other projects to do on this car, I saved about $100 by doing the brakes myself, and I'm spending at least $10 a week on oil, so this job should pay for itself in a matter of months if it greatly decreases my oil loss, which I have a strong feeling it will. Much love to you all.

Autozen (Peter),
I'm glad you enjoyed your time in my area. It is beautiful here, I feel so lucky to live here. The mountains near the sea is a very special area indeed. Did you get a chance to go to Big Sur? I highly reccommend it to everyone, one of the most breathtaking, spiritual places in our immediate vicinity.

Greasy,

Good choice to get the hoses changed. Sorry, no time for Big Sur this time, but remember I am not far away. Christine and I have traveled the entire lenghth of the coast highway in our 230SL. If you have ever been to the town of Bodega where 'The Birds" was filmed, I went to school in that school. I was in the first grade. We had 8 grades in one room and one teacher. It is now a private residence.

Peter

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Auto Zentral Ltd.