I'm having a local indy shop adjust my valves on Monday and I want them to check the timing chain stretch too. Maybe this is a stupid question, but I'm kind of a newbie, and I'm just wondering if I need to ask them to check the stretch in a specific way, or to ask for the results in a specific format, to ensure that it's done right. Basically, I want solid information about the chain, not a vague response like "it's worn and you might want to change it soon."

Thx in advance!

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'81 300TD turbo <<sold 12/05 to another diesel nut

You need to specify that they give you the results based on 2mm movement of the intake valve (after eliminating all clearance) of the number one cylinder at the end of the compression stroke/start of the exhaust stroke.
If you do a search you will find lots of discussion on this... be sure, however, to find Steve Brotherton's post.... a moderator on this site...
Because a bunch of guys are about to post saying that checking it by using the cam marks is acceptable.... but that is only for initial assembling of the engine....
LOLOLOLOL
Love getting in the first strike....

Hey,
In my Haynes manual it says to get TDC by "aligning the camshaft washer and bearing mount marks".
Can this be done instead of the 2mm movement on intake #1?

Danny

If you want it to "just run(probably)" rather than run well, then yes. If you want to do it properly, measure the lift. After you've done it you'll be surprised that it wasn't really that tough at all.

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

I had a Mercedes mechanic tell me to change it automatically every 100,000 miles. He didn't even mention checking the stretch. I don't know if he was ignorant or just interested in making money.

Scott

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Scott
1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)

its definately not going to be running at peak performance the more it stretches.........

100,000 mile changes will keep it there.......but you will have paid to change it what? 1 more time than getting that last mile on it.....

Normally you whould have to replace it at what 200-250K miles.....motors usually might see what 300-350 without rebuilds.......I'd tend to err on the side of keeping it running at its peak....

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Could be both. Depending on the engine, 100,000 could be overdue or totally unnecessary. Insist on checking it right, better yet do it yourself. With regular oil changes, 100,000 is not nearly time to change. However, if there just a little wear, an offset key can be installed to correct position. The most important thing is to check that the lift is where it should be. Beagle posted here once about how some engines had incorrect markings and needed different nominal cam offsets. If you check the lift correctly, you really can't go wrong. Then you can make an informed and intelligent decision about the timing chain.

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

I would not be too hard on making a judgement about that mechanics advice...
On normal engines I used to change out the oil pump every 100,000 miles on principle ... and my Honda, Subaru , and Toyota engines often went 300,000 miles... maybe it helped.. maybe not... but I felt better... But they also cost a LOT less than MB oil pumps and the MB oil pump is a much more powerful pump... so I go by the manual on our engines.....
So in one way changing out the chain every 100,000 miles would be fine.. particularly if you do it yourself.. about a $100 ... but a chance more importantly to change out the rails and check your tensioner..

But keep in mind... a chain stretches more in the first 10,000 miles than it does in the last 10,000 miles... so one would need to set everything when putting in the new chain..and then reset things like the injection pump timing a little way into that new chain... it is not a ' I have a new chain' and can just wait till the next changeout..

NO. The mark on the cam washer was not intended to be a "precision" mark. It was only put there to aid in assembly of the engine to make sure the chain isn't off by a tooth. So if you're only interested in getting within +/- 9 degrees, then go ahead.

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Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

Thanks for all the reply's.
Somehow this from the second post here slipped by me:
Now for a real noob question. Where do you measure degrees from. what point to what point? What tool do you need? A compass maybe?
sorry, I've never done this before.

Also, where do you measure the 2mm from? Obviously the end of the rocker arm would move more than the front would. I would guess the end but I would like to make sure.

Danny

Instructions can be found here.

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Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

adjust #1 intake to zero lash. Put dial gage directly acting on spring keeper for same valve. Rotate crank until valve lifts exactly 2mm, STOP. Look at timing mark on crank balancer, should be around 9.5 degrees with a new chain, IIRC.

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

That depends on the type of engine. All the values are in a chart at the link I posted.

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Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

correct, I was only saying what I thought mine was and did not mean to suggest that anyone act on information purely from my memory. Heck, I wouldn't trust my own memory, why would anyone else?

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

Hey,
Does that link posted by Rick work for anyone here or is it dead?

Danny