10 days to rehab car- lengthy question

[d.delano]

All-
I live in DC, my father lives in GA- late August I'll be going home to claim my car. This car will need some work, the usual kind of work that a car like that needs after about 150k. I am having some parts shipped down there before I go. I really need to bust ass on it while I'm there; I have to drive it 800 some odd miles back to DC where it will be my highway car from here on out. I don't usually have need to drive in town, I use my bike. Here's what I want to do while I'm there:

1. Valve adj
2. Trans service
3. Diesel purge
4. Throttle linkage adj
5. Glow plug check
6. Turbo check w/ adj if necessary
7. ALDA adj
9. idler arm rebuild, steering shock replacement
10. vacuum system check and service
11. timing chain check
12. brake bleed
13. oil change
14. sunroof repair
15. antenna repair
16. driver's seat repair
17. odo repair
18. front end alignment
19. injector pressure test

Can all of this be done in nine days or so? I have my father to help out, but we kinda do things a little meticulously. Also, I am buying all parts from **************.com. Is this wise? I figured I'd get them all from the same place for convenience sake. Take a look at the list. Is there anything listed that I don't need or can be had at any neighborhood foreign auto parts house for less $$$?

1. Power Sunroof Service and Repair Kit $32.95 Item # MRG-GENPSR
2. Instrument Cluster Removal and Repair $12.95 Item # MRG-GENICR
3. Automatic Transmission Service Kit $19.75 Item # 123TKU-TGK
4. 123 Plastic Hood Pull $ 8.95 Item # 123BKU-PHP
5. Sunroof Seal Repair Kit $42.95 Item # 123BKU-SRS
6. Vacuum Check Valve $12.95 Item # 123IKU-VCV
7. Vacuum Door Lock Advanced S&R $14.95 Item # MRG-123DLR
8. Valve Cover Gasket $ 8.95 Item # COMDKU-5VG
9. Instrument Cluster Tool $24.95 Item # COMEKU-DLP
10. Diesel Welcome Wagon Kit $134.95 Item # COMDKU-WWK
11. Light Bulb Survival Kit $23.95 Item # 123EKU-LBK
12. Xenon Dash Bulbs $ 9.95 Item # COMEKU-XLB
13. Voltage Regulator $19.95 Item # COMEKU-RIN
14. Oil Filter Housing Gasket $ 9.95 Item # COMDKU-FHG
15. Vacuum Pump Repair Kit $42.95 Item # COMDKU-LPK
16. Vac Pump Main Checkvalve $38.95 Item # COMDKU-VPC
17. Diesel Service Kit $74.95 Item # COMDKU-ESK
18. Upgrade Injector Hand Primer Pump $20.95 Item # COMDKU-BHP
19. Steering Idler Arm Repair Kit $28.50 Item # COMSKU-IAK
20. Monovalve Heater Repair Kit $38.50 Item # COMCKU-MVK
21. Flexible Fuel Line Replacement Kit $38.50 Item # COMDKU-FLK
22. Steering Shock Absorber $24.50 Item # COMSKU-SSA
23. Water Pump $42.50 Item # COMDKU-DWP
24. 300T(T) and 300SD Nissens Radiator $178.00 Item # COMDKU-TRD
25. Fuse Kit Upgrade $10.95 Item # COMEKU-FKU
26. Grill Insert Replacement Kit $32.95 Item # 123BKU-PGI
27. Front/Rear Driveline Flexdisk $72.50 Item # 123TKU-TFD
28. Radiator Neck Kit $19.95 Item # COMDKU-RNK
29. Wheel Installation Alignment Pin $ 9.95 Item # COMSKU-WAT1
30. 617 Turbo Diesel Glow Relay $153.00 Item # COMDKU-GR5
w/5 Glow Plugs
31. Diesel 5 cyl. Injector Line Kit w/ Heat Shields $19.95 Item # COMDKU-ILK

Is this too much to expect to get done in 9 days?

[Wasuchi]

Is all that stuff broken? Some of that stuff may never need to be replaced if it is ok right now. Sounds like a lot to get done, I would start with things that absolutely need to be done like trans service, valve adjustment, things that obviously leak or are broken and then go to things that you would like to replace just to be safe if you have the time. Might check the prices on Fastlane on some of that stuff too.

[Lars]

If you`re gonna be doing all that, I would definitely start out with a new set of diesel filters. And I would only do what is absolutely necessary to get the car home. You would`nt want to open up a can of worms...

[engatwork]

Let me know when you get to town. I don't live 5 miles from your father and will swing by to visit.

I would insure the brakes are good, change oil/filter, brake fluid, tranny fluid/filter, diff fluid, coolant and adjust the valves. Should be good to go for awhile after all that. Wonder what a diesel service kit for $74.95 is?

[Benzcrusher]

10. Diesel Welcome Wagon Kit $134.95 Item # COMDKU-WWK

What the hell is that????

My idea for that would be a box of nitritle gloves ($4) and a big bottle of Glenfiddich ($60)... Perhaps you get 2 bottles and 3 boxes of gloves for $135.......

[whunter]

Originally posted by d.delano
Is this too much to expect to get done in 9 days?

Yes; it is to much.........
Fourteen hours a day for nine days = bad stress.........

[d.delano]

Thanks guys
Too much perhaps, I don't know. We'll see how it goes.

Hi d.delano.

First off I would take a good look at your
parts list and then eliminate all double and
unneeded parts.

For example:#10 and #17 more or less have the
same parts in them.
So you can eliminate one.
#28, since your getting a new radiator you don't
need this.
If the existing radiator is OK you can use #28 and
just drop the new radiator.
Do a coolant system flush after you put #28 and fill
with MB coolant or Zex-05.
Add water wetter.
A new thermostat.

Do you know for sure that the vacuum and
water pump are bad?
If not,why mess with it.

Get yourself a mighty vac tester and test the vac system
before you replace anything, then order parts as needed.
Most of the time the rubber connections and actuators
are bad and not the vac pump.

Is the glow plug relay bad?
If yes, then replace, if not just get new GP's if needed.

You don't really need crush washers unless you're
pulling the injectors.
If you are going to pull the injectors then you
don't need the diesel purge.
If they are good just reinstall, if bad rebuild.

You don't need the instrument cluster pull tool.
Just remove the bottom trim piece on the
driverside and you can push the cluster out from the
rear.
You can however replace any blown bulbs while
repairing odo.

I would concentrate on engine(valves,oil, fuel and cooling).
Then the drive train(trans fluid/filter, motor/trans mounts
and flex discs).
Belts and hoses.
Wheels,tires and brakes.
Fuel and oilleaks if there are any.
Head and taillight bulbs.

I would'n mess with the turbo and the relieve
valve unless you have the tools to set the boost.
If not,you're not going to make it the 800mls.
To much boost will result in melted pistons.
So be carefull and know what you're doing.

If the front suspension needs work that you can do.
But you might need special tools and they are
expensive and having it done can be expensive too.

It seems to me that you're going to throw money
at this car and most of it isn't really needed.

www.importedcarparts.com has some of these parts
cheaper and their delivery is somewhat faster,
incase you need last minute parts.
You can also get parts from fastlane and sometimes
parts can be overnighted to you if needed.

Have your father check out most of the items listed
on your list.
And have him get back to you on things that need
replacing for sure.
This will aleviate some of the burden on your sholders.


Good luck.

Louis.

[Hatterasguy]

What I don't see listed is trans and oil cooler lines. I would replace both if they are original. Other than changing all the fluids and filters, adjusting the valves and checking the chain. I'd check the brakes and do them if they need it. Frankly I think Fastlane is better than **************.com, because ************** trys to sell you kits that you don't need. They throw a few filters together double the price and call it a kit. Fastlane also delivers very fast, so you can order parts as you need them.

Don't replace parts just because their old, on an old car simple repairs can become a big project quickly. Fix only what you have to to get it home. Do you need a sunroof to drive it home?

[Wes Bender]

I cast my vote with those who say to fix only what is needed to get you home reliably. I know its a little late to suggest it, but this looks like a two trip deal to me. Make a short trip down to troubleshoot and change fluids. Then order the necessary parts and make a second trip to change them out.

I applaud your wanting to fix everything on your list, but you can't realistically get it all done in the time you have allotted.

Keep us posted as this progresses.

Cheers,
Wes

suggest that you let it go with a fluids / filters change, attention to the brakes, and other stuff you don't want to go up on the trip home.

Remember, once you get to MD / DC, you're going to have to have the car inspected to meet local registration requirements...you may have to do stuff over.

A place that's serviced my cars for 9 years and which really knows diesel W123s is Mitch Carr's Auto Service in Kensington, Md.

Has the engine had a leakdown test and the other stuff you'd do for any prepurchase inspection?

Good luck

[P.E.Haiges]

d.delano,

You need a hugh lesson in: If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I have a 300SD with 250,000+ miles and I wouldn't consider doing anything to it like you propose and I drive it across the country and back every year. I think you are crazy replacing all those parts when there is probably nothing wrong with 95% of them.

I pride my MB for all the parts that I don't have to replace.

Why don't you replace the transmission or the rear axle shafts. They will get you stuck on the road more than the GP and relay.

You didn't say anything about checking the brakes. Brakes may not make the car go but they may not make it stop either. One quick brake test is to stomp on the brake pedal ( with engine running for full vacuum) as hard as you can. This will test all the brake lines and hoses.

Chances are that replacing all those parts in a hurry will make the car less reliable than it is now.

P E H

[d.delano]

I'm basing this on account of the fact that I have always had lousy luck, and furthermore I will not have the time to do anything, basically, to this car once I take possession. I need it to be as straight as possible because I live in a whitebread neighborhood that doesn't appreciate shadetree mechanics working on the street. I just got out of college three years ago and live in a 125 sq. ft. apt. that I pay 1k a month for, don't have alot of tools, and don't have alot of time(I work 60 hrs. a week) and don't have alot of money to pay others to fix things that I could fix myself. I just really need to do a big push and get stuff done with this thing while I am in the company of the tools and within the proper setting.

I do not want to have to deal with sluggishness at all if I can help it. I know I won't win any races with this thing but I don't want a sloth either. I like the car, but I will liquidate it in a heartbeat if it will not get out of its own way. I simply will not tolerate that kind of lethargy. If the car is slow like that it's unsafe. Traffic here does not favor slow moving vehicles. Hence the desire to be sure that the turbo is boosting within spec.

Yes, the sunroof must work. It's there, so it's gotta work.

Needless to say I have been in touch with the operators of ************** and they are excited about my order. I don't want to throw money down the toilet but too much is way better than not enough which has generally been the story of my life up to this point. This car will be reliable and behave or it will be sold. In my past experience, if you let even the smallest things go the whole damn thing tends to fall apart.

Arghh! I may need to rethink my ownership criteria. Perhaps I should dump this car and get a VW TDI Golf or something like that. It's just that I have been without a car for three years, and feel like a prisoner in this town. I need reliable transportation.

Thanks everyone

[FrankM]

Originally posted by d.delano

Needless to say I have been in touch with the operators of ************** and they are excited about my order. I don't want to throw money down the toilet but too much is way better than not enough which has generally been the story of my life up to this point. This car will be reliable and behave or it will be sold. In my past experience, if you let even the smallest things go the whole damn thing tends to fall apart. [/B]

you have received some good advice from forums members.

Do the basics if you want a reliable car. CHeck everything else on your list, if it is ok then leave it alone.

It takes alot of experience to service vehicles and replace parts without having problems afterwards with that service/replacement.
It is not so cut and dry that a novice can just replace all those parts you have on your list and still have with a reliable vehicle. Especially one that you expect to travel a great distance with immediatly

You sound pressed for time and funds. Perhaps the best thing would be to just sell the car now for what ever you can get for it and just lease a new inexpensive car.

[d.delano]

'You didn't say anything about checking the brakes.'

I drove it when I bought it off the side of the road(no preinspection or fancy schmancy leakdown tests performed, I just saw the car and bought it just like that). The brakes are hard as a rock. I suspect vacuum.

'You sound pressed for time and funds. Perhaps the best thing would be to just sell the car now for what ever you can get for it and just lease a new inexpensive car.'

I'm not dirt poor I just don't make any money. Inexpensive cars aren't cool. Been there, done that. That's probably why I don't own one now. I'd rather go without than deal with the dorkmobiles that I've had to deal with in the past. I have put myself through college and I have this idea about what I deserve and a Kia don't cut it.

I can't get my pop to do any work on it before I can get down there, he refuses to mess with it. Such is my dilemma.

Anyway, anyone want to buy a car? I can send you all the photos I have of it. It's a GA car, no rust.

Thanks for the reality check everyone. Fun while it lasted!