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#1
07-08-2004, 02:27 AM
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Which wrench/socket for 300D cruise amp removal?
Dear Diesel Demons:
I'll be swapping out my cruise control amp on Saturday and was wondering which wrench or socket you folks who've actually done this would recommend. I know it's a 10mm nut and read one DIY article on this site that recommends a ratchet with a 2" extension. But are we talking stubby ratchet or what? I need some real-world expertise as I don't want to remove the lower dash panel (again) only to find I don't have the right tool. All best,
__________________
Diesel Fitter Lily Von Shtupp: 1983 300D w/199k Communication Breakdown: Chris T.'s new WFMU Podcast 
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#2
07-08-2004, 03:56 AM
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Don't know if this applies to the 123, but on the 126 I use a 10mm box wrench. It is tight quarters in there, just need the wrench to break the nut loose then finish with the fingertips. The bolt portion should be captured in the brake pedal pedistal to keep it from turning. It is loose in there however, and can be easily pushed out when reinstalling the amp. Toughest part about the job is getting the amp back in and trying to hold the bolt in place while threading on the nut. Because of the numerous similarities between models this may be valid info.
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Mike Tangas '73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP  Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72 '02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis 2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel Non illegitemae carborundum.
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#3
07-08-2004, 08:50 AM
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I used a 1/4" drive ratchet with a deep 10mm socket. Worked fine.
If you want I'll take a picture of it tonight and post it. As a side note.. I removed the lower kick plate a month ago.. I have yet to re-install it due to constant fiddling with things.
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'84 300CD Turbo 132k (Anthracite Grey) - WVO - My daily driver - Recently named coo-coo-coupe by my daughter. '84 300D Turbo 240k (Anthracite Grey) - Garage Queen '83 300D Turbo 220k (Orient Red) - WVO - Wifes daily driver I'm not a certified mechanic, but I did stay at a HolidayInn Express last night.
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#4
07-08-2004, 10:05 AM
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I used a magnetic nutdriver for my cordless drill, just backed it out slowly while I held the CCAmp in the other hand. the bolt was held securely by the magnet.
__________________
Tony from West Oz. Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine. Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int. Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine. Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly.
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#5
07-08-2004, 11:24 AM
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There is sufficient room to manipulate a standard ratchet in there. Be prepared to use whatever extension pieces you'll need to put the ratchet just to the right of the brake pedal.
Wes edit - the deep 10 mm socket won't work too well putting the bolt back in when you reinstall the unit. Better to use a regular 10 mm socket at that point. When reinstalling the bolt, I use an extension (about 6" or so) and put the bolt in the socket. I then move the bolt into place and turn it counterclockwise until I feel sure it is at the nutplate threads. At that point I start turning it clockwise with my fingers until it won't go any further. Tighten with the ratchet and you're home free. Last edited by Wes Bender; 07-08-2004 at 11:29 AM.
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