suggestions for Dad's 240D - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Mark DiSilvestro · #46 05-10-2014, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stayalert

Found in the glovebox….

The yellow thing is a pen, the badge is the Euro delivery badge, what is the little 2 pronged thing on each key ring? looks like I might use it for the glovebox door fittings….Could it be something for golf?

Those look like the keys for a Bosch or Hirschmann manual radio antenna.

Happy Motoring, Mark

stayalert · #47 05-10-2014, 03:18 PM

Hard to tell from the photo but the one on the star key chain is captive, ie it can't be taken off…..

Junkman · #48 05-10-2014, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stayalert

I'm not disagreeing with you but that strikes me as quite a bit of oil (1 oz/gallon) to add to straight diesel….I have alot to learn…..

Search "lubricity study" then go to some of the 24V Cummins forums. My 1SD had plastic gloves that appear to have been given to the original owner for the purpose of keeping oily diesel off the hands. Current ULSD is much dryer.

The VP44 on the Cummins needs lube but is a different animal than our pumps. 2-stroke helps the VP which costs1,000 and takes 4 he's to install. It also doesn't hurt injectors.

Power Service is too dry and hurts.

stayalert · #49 05-11-2014, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman

Search "lubricity study" then go to some of the 24V Cummins forums. My 1SD had plastic gloves that appear to have been given to the original owner for the purpose of keeping oily diesel off the hands. Current ULSD is much dryer.

The VP44 on the Cummins needs lube but is a different animal than our pumps. 2-stroke helps the VP which costs1,000 and takes 4 he's to install. It also doesn't hurt injectors.

Power Service is too dry and hurts.

Thanks for the heads up…Been reading reading reading…

stayalert · #50 05-11-2014, 05:19 PM

update:

- installed passenger side mirror.

- repaired drivers seat,

- freed up idle adjustment cable (still needs some TLC)

- removed and send cruise amp for repair,

- have begun to assemble maintenance history

- trying to drive and familiarize myself with this car….

stayalert · #51 05-13-2014, 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro

Those look like the keys for a Bosch or Hirschmann manual radio antenna.

Happy Motoring, Mark

Thanks - you're right! I don't know how long it would have taken me to figure that out.

stayalert · #52 06-22-2014, 04:47 PM

Registered and driving in Vermont WOOT!

Need to troubleshoot the A/C - looks as though their are quite a few new A/C parts under the hood….Just have to go through the receipts and see what the history is….It looks as though I have every slip of paper for this car from the very beginning in Frankfurt, Germany……

Cruise is fixed, and I installed a modern cd/ipod/radio thingy @ 4 new speakers…..

stayalert · #53 05-08-2015, 10:16 AM

5-8-2015

Ongoing "stewardship"….

Took the car to a (what I believe to be) reputable "Mercedes guy" in Plainfield NH…Explained the history and my desires to provide a good home for this car…A couple of small things….New hood cable, New shift linkage bushings, new fuel pre-filter…..

Just washed it this morning (photo below) after a long/cold Winters nap….

Interested in sourcing of having fabricated a 2" receiver (for bike rack)

Prob. take it for some rust repair (jack points, rockers, etc) in the Fall before the rust gets worse…

Any other things I should be considering for mods/practices to keep this thing a long time?

Best,

Rob M
Norwich, VT

Maxbumpo · #54 05-08-2015, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stayalert

Any other things I should be considering for mods/practices to keep this thing a long time?

(1) Don't let the engine sit idling to "warm it up". Instead, once the engine is running smoothly and oil pressure is normal (i.e. within 15-30 seconds of starting) drive off gently. Keep the RPM's low until the engine is fully warmed up, the oil cannot do its job at high RPM while thick and cold. How do you know when the oil is at full temperature? When you let the engine speed drop to idle and the oil pressure falls to ~1 - 2 BAR. Normally this takes about 15 minutes of driving AFTER the coolant temperature gauge hits normal (~82 deg C). When I drive off in the a.m., I keep the RPM under 2k, more like around 1.5k, for the first five minutes; then I'll drive at about 2k for five to ten minutes, then upper limit of 2.5k for five minutes, then usually the oil is fully warmed up. Once the oil is at full temp, drive it like you stole it. If you can manage at least one full throttle acceleration from dead stop to highway speed every day, that will help tremendously to keep carbon from building up in the pre-chambers. Highspeed driving up hill for sustained periods, which causes the engine coolant temperature to climb up over 90 and maybe up to 100 deg C and stay there for a few minutes, is also a great way to "burn out" the carbon. If your car has a block heater and you really want to baby it, plug that in for 30 minutes to an hour before each cold start.

(2) Change the oil on schedule and use a diesel-rated synthetic oil (I love Mobil 1, would recommend 5w-40). If you want to run extended oil drain intervals, pay for used oil lab analysis to get the soot load number, which should not exceed 2%. Send a sample at 5k miles, estimate from that when the soot load will hit 2%, sample again before your estimate to confirm, adjust as necessary. Costs about $75 for three samples if you purchase all at once.

(3) Adjust the valves every 15k miles or annually, which ever comes first. Best practice is to adjust in the fall before the onset of cold weather (tight valves = poor compression = much harder to start the engine when cold).

(4) Only source parts from the MB dealer if you can afford it, especially suspension rubber. MB parts last much much longer than just about any aftermarket parts you can get. If you must use aftermarket, try to get OEM or OE, and NOT made in China. Exceptions: Bilstein shocks, Bosio or Monarch injection nozzles, Mann or Hengst or Mahle oil/fuel filters, Bosch glow plugs, Bosch starters/alternators. There maybe a few other OEM items that are still high quality comparable to MB dealer prices. MB Northlake dealership has online ordering and really nice prices. MB Classic Center in CA has expertise to get the right parts for your car. If you buy crap aftermarket parts, expect a much shorter life. If you can source used parts from a pick-n-pull auto recycler, that would be preferable to most aftermarket junk.

(5) Measure the timing chain stretch when you adjust the valves, lots of posts out there on how to do this. I prefer the simple: line up cam-shaft markers, read stretch at crank shaft position indicator.

(6) The vast majority of the maintenance and repairs can be best done by you, if you have the time and inclination to learn. Finding a competent Mercedes-Benz Diesel mechanic is hard. They need all three qualifications: Competent, trained/experienced on MB cars, trained/experienced on MB Diesel engines from the 80's. Look for white hair and German first/last names. There is a ton of free and good information on this forum and other places on the web.

stayalert · #55 05-08-2015, 02:47 PM

Thanks for the tips. Pretty much how I roll….Its funny you mention the long uphill at sppeed to burn out carbon…..Just took a run to get a hydraulic hose for my splitter and a burger at Worthy Burger….Really nice long uphill on the way home….As I was driving the hill I was totally thinking how good this was as an "exercise"……I guess sort of the equivalent of a cardio work type workout….

stayalert · #56 07-19-2015, 09:16 AM

Havn't beeen driving the car much but I have been watching the fuel pre filter closely. I've got some sort of sludge…Took the car on a 300 mile round trip journey yesterday to an 80th birthday celeb. in Rockport, MA….….mostly highway at 70MPH what a freaking smooth drive…Anyhow on the way home percieved a slight hesitation….Pulled over at our targeted fuel stop a few minutes later and filled the tank and changed the pre filter (I've taken to carrying spares and a few tools….

All back to normal….I took the dremel to my old pre-filter…eeeeeeeeew!

rust colored gritty dirt…..not magnetic….Is there a cleanable/re-useable version of this filter?

I prob. need to remove and clean the tank but in the xmeantime I'll be getting good at changing pre-filters….

TnBob · #57 07-19-2015, 01:43 PM

I see Sea Foam in your immediate future !

Replaceable filter would be similar to one of the old gas glass filters.

Strongly suggest a full fuse replacement with the copper / bronze elements too.

stayalert · #58 05-14-2016, 12:35 PM

Takes me about 4 minutes to change pre filters now…I suppose I should pursue the root cause….1980 240D NA 4 cylinder with 4 spd manual.

An update with some new challenges….

1) coolant weep (a few drops after a road trip at the top of this section of hose (see photo) ….Doesn't look too hard to change….Is there an improved or reccomended replacement hose/clamps to the original?

2) antenna seems to be missing a cap (chrome?) on the trunk side of the antenna there is a space where water can get in….looks like its missing a cap or something….

toomany MBZ · #59 05-16-2016, 01:35 PM

Seems to be critters in your fuel, eventually you'll get rid of 'em. You can use a bio-cide in the fuel to speed things up.

Not sure on the antenna.

That short coolant hose needs replacing, I use those style clamps.

vwnate1 · #60 09-15-2016, 07:43 PM

Rob ;

Yes , that base model antenna is missing a dome shaped chrome cover .

Are you still enjoying the car ? .

I love my '82 240D W/ slushbox tranny, I tour America in it and get 32 ~ 34 MPG's @ 60 ~ 65 MPH . the travel speed affects the fuel economy greatly : over 65 MPH it drops off quickly .

Sorry you lost your Dad , glad yo hear you had a good relationship with him, I'm jealous

.

As a (damn) Yankee born and bred , I beg you to never , _EVER drive this car in the snow nor spring until after the second really hard rain .

Salt takes a while to wash off the tarmac .