Hello

Aparently my car has no more breaks
Got a phone call form my gf, the break pedal will always stay up and hard and when it's press it you have a bit of breaking.

I didn't took a look at the car yet but i need a few pointers where to look for trouble (maybe the pump ??)

As a side note when i bought the car (2 months ago) the ex owner told me that he had some problem with the break lines (but if i had a broken line my pedal will be soft not hard..)


Sorin
1983 300SD

Sounds like no vacumm to the brake booster. Put a vacumm gauge on one of the smaller line that come off the main tube going to the booster. Vacumm pump failed on my '83 300D and pedal got real hard and braking was much slower.

okay i'll do that onced i get home
Any idea how much will be the vacumm pump ?
can it be rebuild/repaired ?

Pump may not be the problem--I would suspect vacuum lines first.

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1984 300SD 326,997 miles and counting . . . No wait, my odometer is still dead

Thanks I'll check the vacuum system asap

I'm no expert, but in the first two weeks I had my 300DT, I had to make a panic stop [for the NASCAR inspired Atlanta drivers] and boiled my brake fluid. I still had brakes, but had to almost stand on the pedal to make 'em work. After bleeding and replacing fluid [which is recommended annually], brakes were back in business. Might be something to check if the vacuum system checks out OK.

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1983 300D- silver blue, tan leather, 205,000.
1975 Datsun 280Z. Stock, ready to restore.
1983 San Juan 23. Dry docked.

Pump should not be too expensive. Be sure to get the external check valve too. All totaled, probably not too much over $100. Click on fastlane and go to diesel injection for parts. Maybe you'll get lucky and you'll just have a big leaking hose somewwhere.

100$ is not that bad
And yesterday i tough that i'm taking a break from working on the MB (got the euroligths installed, the radio repaired, and last week-end was the nozzles got changed)
I gues after i fix my breaks i will change my AT fluid and filter
after that is interior leatherique and climate control)

step by step i'll get it to an excellent condition before the winter

okay
i took a test drive and the problem is not that bad as i first tough
the brakes are working
you give them 3 continous pumps the pedal stays UP ... even with the pedal UP it can break (altough it seems that the breaking power is not quite the same)
after a couple of sec the pedal goes to its normal position

I will check the vaccum pump but i don't have the right tool ( iwill buy it today if i can find if not i'll order it online)

Is it dangerous if i keep on driving the car for a few days before fixing it ?
am i playing with fire ?

One thing that was not mentioned is that your master cylinder may have become faulty/worn out...

Contrary to popular belief master cylinders do not last forever and need replaced/repaired like everything else...

If when you pump the pedal up, then rest your foot firmly on it for a length of time and the pedal eases lower...

1.the master cylinder could be leaking internaly... allowing pressurized brake fluid to ooze and drift back to the resevoir section. [hence no external leaking]

Make sure the entire brake fluid system has no leaks...

Also that all shoes / pads / drums / rotors / calipers installed on your vehicle are "all" in satisfactory or better condition...

I wish you luck and safety...

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