1985 300SD shop "truck" daily driver 5 speed project - Page 8 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

rwd4evr · #**106** 04-05-2021, 03:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

The mb tex wears like iron.

Yeah not like this. It stil deforms and the base springs always break and have horse hair and all kinds of nonsense falling out of them. These are the only 123 seats I've ever sat in that don't lean and give me a lump in my right butt check after hours of driving.

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t walgamuth · #**107** 04-05-2021, 08:40 AM

Keith Martin of Sports car market said this about 123 mb. People get in one that is 30 years old and so many things still work as designed they immediately start evaluating it using standards as if it were a new car.

rwd4evr · #**108** 04-10-2021, 10:46 AM

Idk. A w126 is so much nicer and has all the same crap. Styling is starting to grow on me too. I'd rather have a decent w116 though . climate control is always a crap shoot. Odometers rarely work. Seats always broken. I mean yes they are great cars but there are things they could have done better very easily to be about perfect. The seats in fintails dont collapse and the odometers don't break. My 64 220b has working AC and heat. There are just a bunch of "WHY!" questions with Mercedes engineering. Why are some things so genius and perfect and some so incredibly stupid? So.many people on the forums get all angry because you don't think they are perfect like it's thier kids. It's kinda funny to me. It's like someone who got power in the late 70's dropped the ball. W123/w126 have many flaws. The front suspension works pretty well handling wise but it's a disaster to mess with and rebuild and death wobble is very real.
The reason you can judge it like a new car is because it cost as much as a nice new car today in 1985. My 300sd sticker is like 37,900 I think. Crazy town.
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t walgamuth · #**109** 04-10-2021, 12:17 PM

The seats are wear items. The older ones with horsehair pads wear out at an earlier age than later seats. You gotta replace the pads but the vinyl is often serviceable with installation of a new pad.

rwd4evr · #**110** 04-11-2021, 03:21 AM

Well wear items like thier cosmetics sure its a wear item l. It shouldn't fall apart though. Breaking springs is nonsense. My 85 monte carlo seats are great. My cutlass I had had **** tons of miles and they were great seats. Old ass cadillacs and tons of old japanese and other cars have seats that don't fail internally.

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rwd4evr · #**111** 04-11-2021, 03:42 AM

Back to this cars recent sagas. The w123 parts car may have a reprieve for the moment. Of course this happens. Instead of waiting for a car to pop up in the junkyard I went for the car in Richmond Virginia, so I have a motor for the car. Then after yanking the motor out of the 300sd and assessing clutch things, i decided to replace the pressure plate and throw out bearing. it's actually the incorrect throw out bearing for this transmission and clutch setup. It's for an early 716.005 not the 716.210 I have. So that got ordered with a few other items it could use. Had the custom pilot bearing made too. I'm just about ready to yank the motor out of the 300d to swap it and of course a 300 SD 1984 pops up in the Pick-A-Part yard. I went down there today yank the motor out of it paid $307 dollars with my 20% points discount. It's got the bigger turbo, the correct oil canister and it seems to have good compression. The intermediate plate is correct with the timing sensor for the tach. The radiator resovior looks aged but not all filthy and discolored so that's a good sign. One auction description that pops up with the VIN number says" it does not run possible injector." The car was donated. I wonder if it lost prime and they just couldn't get it to run? Maybe glow plug relay? They all test good but without a good relay they really don't like to run if it's chilly(edit; snow on the car in the auction pics) Either way I got injection pumps and injectors out the freaking wazoo at this point. I'll give it a shot tomorrow on a pallet and see how deep I have to go to see if it's healthy. 228,xxx on the clock but ooo.o on the trip so who knows. Possible someone hit it after parked but it could be broken for 100,000 too. Pretty decent interior so it's hard to say.

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fonzi · #**112** 04-11-2021, 01:27 PM

I assumed it was the passenger side damage that put it in the yard.

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rwd4evr · #**113** 04-11-2021, 02:42 PM

Nah that's yard damage. It wasn't there when auctioned off.

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rwd4evr · #**114** 04-13-2021, 02:23 AM

Well it's a runner. The glow plug relay was bad. It's got some blowby for sure. Not any worse than the last one I don't think though. Seems to run fine, not really smoking excessively. It's got a weird idle thing intermittent. Rev it and when it drops it misses when it fully slows down but not all the time. Soon as the throttle moves it picks up all the cylinders instantly. So I figure it injection pump or injector hanging up or peeing. I'm going to put the pump that's already turned up and injectors from the motor I just killed in it and send it home.

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rwd4evr · #**115** 04-15-2021, 05:40 AM

Man.my sleep.schedule is messed up right now. Got the injection all swapped over. Pump and injectors from the last junkyard motor. Thus motor has the big KKK turbo, definitely keeping that and cranking up the boost to match the extra fuel. Set timing to 25° with the bubble method. It was so easy. First time ever actually checking timing and I highly recommend it. Forget counting drips and pumping the pump and all that nonsense. Search " mbca bubble method " low pressure air is all you need along with some tubing and a nut to fit your fuel inlet banjo. I just blew with my mouth but a fish air pump or regulator turned way down would be perfect. It sounds snappy and healthy. Can't wait to be rolling again. Maybe tomorrow.

https://youtu.be/deT2CoTvY0I

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rwd4evr · #**116** 04-20-2021, 06:24 PM

er. Ready to install the clutch with new parts last night and saw bad things in the clutch disc spring hub that I'm not happy with. Had to order a new one. Never ending.

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rwd4evr · #**117** 04-24-2021, 03:38 AM

Don't ever use autoplicity. Ordered the clutch disc Monday night(so essentially Tuesday) with 10.00 extra 2 day shipping. Didn't move until Thursday when I called and they claimed"that 10 was for regular ground shipping". well regular ground was free and I paid an extra 10$. Took a half hour on the phone to have them finally say "oh your right" returned my extra money. Was supposed to arrive to ight before 9pm. Nope. Rrrrrrrrr.

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rwd4evr · #**118** 04-25-2021, 02:12 PM

Got the clutch and trans installed. The disc hub looks way beefier than the one that was in it. All went together smoothly with the custom pilot bushing. Motor in last night. Going to get the rest hooked up right now. Going for a drive before too long.

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rwd4evr · #**119** 04-26-2021, 04:26 AM

Ahhh. Back together at last. Took her for a drive and it's great again. I didn't try any hard launches from a stop yet since it's all new clutch parts and I want to break it in a bit at least. I didn't hear that chirp noise shifting at full throttle at all though thank God. I installed a needle valve in the boost reference line from the turbo to the wastegste to be able to adjust boost but I'm still only getting it up to a hair under 13 psi with the needle valve fully opened and 10+ closed so the waste gate is operating normally. It's the bigger kkk turbo so it has an adjustable waste gate. I'm going to give that some love tomorrow. I'd like to see more like 18 psi like my original engine made. This one seems to run very good even with some blowby. I built a breather system that vents into a bottle to catch any oil it blows. I'm definitely thinking I'm going to put the 3.27 rear I have in it. I've got some tiny 205 40 16 tires that are only 23.3 " diameter that will almost exactly simulate running my 25.9 " tires with a 3.27 ratio. I figure if it's a little much for long distance cruising with no trailer I'll just have a set of taller tires I can throw on it set aside. The LSD and lower ratio should make it far more enjoyable at all other times. Pics of this beauty just popped up again too. Apparently they are funeral cars in japan. Maybe this will get the chop at some point still.

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rwd4evr · #**120** 05-01-2021, 05:35 AM

The car is running great. The pump rack limiter tuning and 25° timing seems to work fantastic. It's quick enough that the propane isn't necessary really. But it really does pull strong from about 2100 with one of the propane solenoids activated. I haven't really messed with the second "kit" much. I don't think it will hurt it but I really don't want to. Unfortunately I still have this sound. It was very minor at first but seems like it may be increasing. It's only when I'm starting to apply more power with the clutch up to when the clutch is fully engaged it stops. So in-between some significant power application and when the engine and trans are fully locked it when it makes noise. I had found the pilot bearing (in the last engine that came out) actually loose in the crank to the point I just slid it out. Not rattling around at all but not pressed. So I installed the new custom bronze bushing that fit quite tight in the crank and honed the inside bronze part to fit the pilot shaft perfectly. I very lightly greased it and it all went together beautifully. The first couple days I only heard that chirpy sound a couple times. Today it seems to be easier to get it to do it. I'm wondering if the non oilite bronze is starting to make noise? There's no noise at all under clutch depressed or released. Maybe a little bearing noise when in neutral and clutch pedal released but not that chirpy sound. I keep thinking it could be the main bearing in the front of the trans but I think it would make a lot of noise all the time if it was messed up. It drives perfect,just makes the noise under quick clutch engagement and if I really wind it up and slip it I can get it to kinda drag the noise out like a little squealy noise. It's irritating that I have to hold back on seeing what it's fully capable of still. I've put close to 400 miles on it so the clutch should be pretty well bedded. I revved it up and dropped it one time last night and spun the tire(only one

) pretty easily. Anyone have any other thoughts? It's all new clutch parts, pressure plate, disc, throwout bearing. I'm just wondering if the chirping before was the pilot bearing in the crank and now it's the bushing? I don't think it could be the needle bearing in the main shaft.

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