Om603 injection pump Leak
 

Can anything be done about a pump leaking up around the bottom of the fuel feed with out ruining the calibration? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4aa74bfd37.jpg

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Super common issue. Nothing will affect calibration. You need the splined socket to remove the delivery valve holders. YOu'll need new copper crush washers and new O-rings. There are lots of threads on this site and on the web with part numbers and procedures. Make sure everything is spotless before you take it apart.

Most critical part is the torquing. 30nm, release, 30nm, release, 30nm, final torque to 35nm.

You can do this job with the intake manifold in place, it's tight, but you can do it. Remove all the hard lines first to make it easier. Replace any broken or missing plastic clips and rubber bumpers, if they're missing the lines WILL break, usually right at an injector, or rub through where they vibrate on something else.

Well luckily it's only that first one. I was under the impression that turning the splined part is how it's finely calibrated.

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Nope. Calibration on the M-pumps is done down below. If you're in that deep, do all 6. It'll take you maybe 20 minutes longer than doing just the 1. And it'll save you from having to do the other 5 as they start to leak (it's never just one).

Ok good to know. Thanks.

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You have an M type fuel injection pump. It is the MW fuel injection Pumps that the fuel is adjusted from outside of the Fuel Injection Pump.

The fuel adjustments on your M type pump for the individual elements is done under that sheet metal cover on the side of the Pump. Stay away from those Adjustments.

The caution when changing the delivery valve holder O-ring and the copper crush washer on the M type fuel injection pumps is that a few people have managed when pulling the delivery valve to pull up the element barrel/body up and out of the alignment slot.

In the attached pic on the bottom part you can see the aliment slot. There is a pin in the Fuel Injection Pump housing that goes into that slot. You don't that element barrel to be pulled up.
When you do the work change only one seal at a time. When you assemble it screw in the delivery valve holder with the splined socket till it bottoms out only a little tight and then compare how high it sits to the rest of the delivery valve holders. If a element barrel has come up and out and is no longer lined up the Delivery Valve Holder will be obviously higher then the rest of them. If it is obviously higher don't torque it.

How to change the O-ring and crush washer will be in the Repair Links
Fast navigation http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/146034-fast-navigation-do-yourself-links.html

Great! Thanks. I need to find a thread with the full rundown on it. Hopefully with part numbers for the seals. I want to find out about turning the Pump up as far as possible too until I get around to buying a diesel pump UK pump. It seems like it starts pull fuel before it goes into high gear at full throttle. Is that electronic connection responsible for that? The idle jumps up and then settles back down when I messed with that, I don't recall if it was up and back down when dis or reconnected though.

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Anyone have issues with the Victor reinze o rings? 5 bucks an o ring for Mercedes is just insanity. Ok. Just went and looked again. 1.50 for "Mercedes " brand and 5.00 for Bosch. .50 for Victor reinze.

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You want O-rings made of Viton. Be sure that the word Viton is in the sellers ad.

If you hold the downshift button, the transmission should do a 2-3 and 3-4 shift at 4600 RPM. Without the downshift button held but still at full-throttle, the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts should be somewhere around 4300 RPM if the bowden cable is adjusted properly. If you're shifting late, the engine will seem to run out of breath and the shift sort of "hang" before upshifting.



The electronic connection on the back of the IP is ONLY for idle control. It does nothing else. Think of it as a fast-idle solenoid on a carburetor, it basically keeps the idle from drooping when going into gear or A/C compressor kicking on.


The torque capsule on the IP governor is responsible for the fuel taper. Adjusting it in conjunction with the full-load fuel stop can yield some performance improvement, but it won't be that significant.


I've used nothing but Victor Reinz. I'm not paying 3-10x the cost for exactly the same thing.

Ahh. Good info, thanks. I wish the search engine didn't suck so bad here. Unfortunately I do not have a working tach or speedo right now. Just got it driving and I plan on swapping my SD cluster to see if that has any effect. That scenario where it runs out of breath, kind of hangs and I have to lift to get it to shift sounds about right. I haven't been beating on it too bad yet since no tach and the brakes are terrible. Really only ran it out to there twice.

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Unless you have a 2.88:1 final drive on your SD, the speedo will be off. The tach will not work, the 617's have a very different tach pulse compared to the 603's.

Crap. I was just hoping to rule out the cluster itself. I know the speedo and tach would be off, 5/6 cyl and different gears. I did some testing months ago when I got it and I honestly can't even remember what I did. Checked that fused relay I think. Is the Klima responsible for any tach or speedo duty? I swear that tach worked the first time I drove it for 2 seconds too. But that was 6 months ago or something like that.

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Can you tell me the dimension of the o ring.?