16v aftermarket cams
 

i have a set of campro cams sources from bekkers that are 278 degrees and 10.2mm lift (according to bekkers). when my tech installed it, he noted, upon hand cranking, that the valves springs were totally compressed which prevented complete revolution of the camshafts. bekkers has preliminary indicated that all are needed are new (shorter, stiffer) valve springs.

Does anyone have experience with this setup? Are new valve springs all that are needed? should i send 'em back to bekkers?

thanks,

JH

278's are probably the most aggressive cams available for the 16v and new springs are required. This is true with nearly all "stage 3"(272's or higher NA DOHC's) cams.

thanks! assuming i source the proper replacement springs, do you think i need to worry re: machining the tops of the pistons, etc?

John -
please do post back about how it runs once you have the cams fitted and engine running. E.g. performance change, bottom end, how it goes with the stock fuel setup etc. Thanks.

It's always important when you're running a high lift, high duration cam that you check piston clearance. Put a piece of putty on a cylinder and roll it through to see what your clearance is.

thanks for the tips. what should i look for as acceptable clearance? I will post the performance gains. question is, do i do the testing with the stock cats or the totally trick 3-section complete 16v AMG exhaust system (3" pipes, no precats, small resonator in place of main cat) that's totally illegal in CA? hmmmm....

btw, anyone know of a dyno in norcal where i can do the comparisons?

If you spent $1,800 on cams I take it you want maximum performance... so why run with stock exhaust?

Wow. There is a lot available for the 2.3-16. I want a hot cam in my 300E already...:P

The general rule of thumb I've always used is .080 (2mm) on the intake side and .100 (2.5mm) on the exhaust side. This is used on pushrod motors that in general use bigger clearances, so you may be able to run tighter tolerances than that, but DO NOT build your motor on that assumption. The best thing you can do is to contact your local cylinder head guy and ask him given your valve train layout and cam specs how tight you can run that tolerance.


I wish they made cams for my M104 that didn't cost as much as my entire car did....:rolleyes:

What's the duration of the stock 16v cam (us or euro?).

If you call renntech they may still sell their M103 cam.

I'm pretty sure they do not. I recently called them about M104 parts and they said they've stopped supporting the M104, which is a newer motor and have no more cams and/or blanks.

Hrm, I read of someone not too long ago that bought M103 cams, phone calls are free, may still be worth a shot.

Get a regrind or run two exhaust cams with no advance. Someone on here had their 300E cam reground for performance it was relatively cheap(Multiple times cheaper than Shrick cams I believe)