Wideband O2 sensor recommendations
 

Any recommendations? I think this will be a good step in the right direction for CIS Tuning...

I found the Innovative MTX-L and LC-1....either of those any good or other wideband sensors that are noteworthy?

Innovate all the way :P

Do you know the difference between the LC-1 and MTX-L ? Is the only difference the integrated controller?

It may also help me figure out why my 300TE's idle has never been 100% smooth like my 260E's is...that would be bomb!!

I had a discussion with HitManX one day about widebands.


I do not recall which one he said you needed to program, but I think it might have been the Innovative one.

I think he was reccomending the AEM Wideband, but I cannot recall... (This was like 6 months ago!)

We use the lc1 when tuning cars. So I know it's a good reliable one. And from what I know it's better than the aem.

decided on the MTX-L
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTXL.php
http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motorsports-3845-MTX-L-Powersports/dp/B004MDXVRU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1300737696&sr=8-1
I like the gauge display and I'm reading the LC-1 is going to be phased out with the new MTX series going forward.

Gonna see if I can get a shop to weld the bung in this weekend if I get it by thurs/fri. Maybe I'll once and for all figure out the weird idle on the 300TE then simply buy another bung and transplant to 260E for turbo :D

im using the innovate lc1, its accurate and fast.. but sometimes the guage just stops reading and gets stuck @ 7.4 .. i stop and restart the car and it works again..

sorry to intrude on your thread, but the answer to my question might be of help to you too..

the manual that came with the LC-1 said that the LED indicator will blink steadily indicating that the sensor is warming up and when its warm the LED will be lit (not blinking).. does this mean i can't start the car until its steadily lit? another scenario is when i turn off the engine and want to start again .. do i really need to wait for the O2 sensor to warm up? or can i just start the car? its really annoying having to wait for the sensor to warm up... i just hate waiting.

It just means that until the sensor has warmed, you won't get a reading, the same as any oxygen sensor before the system gets warm and goes into closed loop.

What about Zeitronix products?

They have an impressive website & line of products at very competitive prices.

when I bought my AIC from SSI, they told me that the Zeitronix was the only Wideband sensor they paired with their AICs and were the only one they recommended.

I've been using a zeitronix WB for a couple of years now and I'm very pleased with it (most of my friends also use mine), haven't had any problems (had two friends LC-1 stop working and they were never used as much as the zeitronix)

i use ngk powerdex, it has been installed for three years, and has never given any problems. the range is alittel acute though, being from 9 to 16. it was cheep and has a display

Went to an exhaust shop and they all want $100 to weld the bung so looking at simply replacing my OE sensor...
I'm reading the manual and it says that I should be able to use the WB sensor instead of the OE sensor. It must be used in the right format for the ECU....but this is what I am reading:

Connect ECU to following MTX-L wiring:

Analog Wire 1 (yellow) -- 0v = 7.35 AFR 5v= 22.39 AFR
Analog Wire 2 (brown) -- 1.1v = 14 AFR 0.1v = 15AFR

In the Narrowband section it mentions using Wire 1(yellow), but should I ACTUALLY use Wire 2(brown) since MB uses 0-1v? Any ideas?

then go with brwn

Cheap, reliable, works with MSQ, capable of data logging multiple channels on your lap top without MSQ and it looks great in the dash.
http://www.14point7.com/Products.php

Doing its warmup routine with the engine off.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...g?t=1302029799

Are you using the WB sensor for just a read out or for control?
The brown wire appears to give you a narrow band output which your CIS-E /EZL needs for control.

The yellow wire appears to be a wideband output which can be used for read out or control setup.

I still run a OEM narrow band in my TwinTurbo as it maintains the stock control of the CIS-E/EZL.
A wide band is installed in another bung but was only used to program the fuel maps in the stand alone enrichment controller.
The variable in my control that enriches under boost is the manifold absolute pressure and no O2 sensor input.

Check with the manufacturer to see if you could use both outputs, the brown for stock control and the yellow to your AFR gauge.

It actually does not mention using the yellow wire at all for standard readout, so I am hoping that means the controller will still output the full range -- the analog is simply there for adaptability. That would be cool!

Where did you weld your bung at, just curious? The exhaust shop said it was a difficult job. I may try going to some "on-the-side" shop.

The TurboTechnics kit was supplied with a true 2.5" SS stainless steel exhaust starting with dual down pipes.
The bung for the stock O2 sensor was factory installed before the middle silencer.
The down pipe had to be cut from the middle silencer to install the spun metal cats.
So the stock bung is on one pipe and a bung for the wide band was installed in the same location on the other pipe prior to installing the exhaust.

I like the AEM for ease of use/install. You hook it up in the same manner as a narrow band... bung, run wire, switched 12V, and ground. That is all there is to the thing. Yes, it has analog out so you can log with it or run on MS.

I had used an Innovate a while back, but then you had to calibrate it after so many hours of use and such. :rolleyes: Perhaps this has been corrected?

My Z71 has a Tech Edge, but I bought that forever ago and just needed one to log only with no readout.



The sensor alone now is cheap, around $40-60.

the scorpion stainless exaust, that was supplied with the tt kit is 2.25"

Thank you kind Sir...
I graciously stand corrected :)

If u on a real shoestring budget like me. You could try the fong kong. I found it for 150 usd shipped, here www.deporacing.com. Thats for the sensor and the guage with readout. But im so broke i still need 2 save up for it :-(