My 300E factory 5 speed transformation - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ke6dcj · #31 06-17-2015, 06:04 PM

I was one of the first to do the wagon links on the sedan. You'll need to swap the lower bushings from the a good plastic link to the wagon's.

The transformation is looking good.

:-) neil

PS: you'll see my C36-powered wagon in "The Bible" . . .

nippy · #32 06-17-2015, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ke6dcj

I was one of the first to do the wagon links on the sedan. You'll need to swap the lower bushings from the a good plastic link to the wagon's.

The transformation is looking good.

:-) neil

PS: you'll see my C36-powered wagon in "The Bible" . . .

thanks yeah we actually shaved down the lower bushings and inner metal sleeve on a belt sander tonight to the same width/size as the plastic link set up. Worked fine.

Also got the wheel carrier bushings out (see pics below), think they needed replacement? Thanks to a fellow forum user for the Baum tool rental! Pressing out LCA bushings tomorrow and them rear diff. and last but not least rear sub frame, then I get to pc. everything back together along with the multi link suspension arms for the wheels.

And the new ones ready to go in today....

nippy · #33 06-18-2015, 05:42 PM

Finally picked up the rest of the goodies today.

rear control arm inner bushings

Control arm kit with hardware, had to order the sleeves as they do not come with the OEM hardware packs...

Front and rear differential bushings

Rear sub frame front bushings

Rear sub frame Sportline rear bushings (only 1 showed up so far), I made a mistake and ordered the bushings alone without the needed hardware kit as these wont work with the standard bushing hardware. There is a kit that comes complete with all the hardware and that is part # 202-350-34-08.

nippy · #34 06-18-2015, 09:14 PM

Now I know why its smarter to buy complete new lower control arms with the bushings in place for a few more bucks. I opted to save a bit and just buy the bushings and try pressing in/out. We ended up hitting them with an air hammer to get the old bushings out. They put up a very good fight but in the end, they came out. The new bushings were easily pressed in on our shop press.

Old and new...

new bushing in its new home

nippy · #35 06-22-2015, 11:01 PM

old rear diff bushings out and new ones in. Again thanks to tool rental on this forum. Passenger side rear was a pain due to shape of gas tank.

old and new

old rears and old fronts (fronts were not that bad)

new ones in place, I know the right one is off a tad. The old one sat the exact same.

Got one front sub frame bush out today. Here's old and new

gatorblue92 · #36 06-23-2015, 06:00 AM

Did you drop the whole subframe or change the bushings in place?

nippy · #37 06-23-2015, 08:26 AM

so far in place....but only got 1 front out. Rears are going to be a challenge.

**Edit that, fronts in, rears were a pain to get out but easy to get in. They showed up today with the hardware. The first time around I received just one bushing no hardware. So a little investigating showed a complete repair kit for the Sportline rears (subframe). This is them. Also the sleeves for the arm to wheel carrier connections showed up as well. So passengers side, all the arms in with sleeves and new hardware. Just needing to be torqued. Will grab some pics of that in the morning (its pretty to see all those new arms and bushings under there).

sleeves for wheel carrier

nippy · #38 06-25-2015, 10:35 PM

She hit the ground tonight. Have some torqueing to do tomorrow, then a fender roll and alignment and I think I should be good. teaser pic...

nippy · #39 06-26-2015, 08:10 PM

So initial thoughts, rear sits to high. Drives great, needs alignment (center of steering wheel is at 10 oclock. Needs fender roll in front due to rubbing but only in high speed leaners. Surprisingly smooth even on rough bumps. Euro headlights should be in tomorrow.

nippy · #40 06-27-2015, 03:42 PM

Got the euro headlights and wiper delete panels on today. Brought her home and gave her a bath. Rear is settling in plus it was on empty, almost completely. So I filled her up with ethanol free gas. The rear looks a bit better plus its being driven, so I think the rear is settling down a bit with all those new components.

gatorblue92 · #41 06-27-2015, 08:54 PM

That looks fantastic. I missed your question a few weeks ago about my wheels. They were 16's

PARSHOOT1 · #42 06-27-2015, 10:04 PM

Am I correct, you went 1 nipple for the front spring pads and 2 nipples for the rear? The way the car sits in the pics looks great. Do you like how it sits as you look at it in person?

nippy · #43 06-27-2015, 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PARSHOOT1

Am I correct, you went 1 nipple for the front spring pads and 2 nipples for the rear? The way the car sits in the pics looks great. Do you like how it sits as you look at it in person?

yes correct. The rear seems a bit high. Not in the pics as it has a full tank of gas. Hopefully it settles. If it stayed like it looks in the pics I would be happy. Drives great but I cant push it until I get front lips rolled.

PARSHOOT1 · #44 06-28-2015, 11:42 PM

Just did a front suspension & steering rebuild on my '89 260e. Used aftermarket springs (Lesjofors.....they are apparently stiffer than the MB springs?) and used 3 nipples (18mm) for the spring pads and that combination has resulted in the car now sitting high.

Plan to change out the 3 nipple to 1 nipple (8mm) and I think that 10mm difference will have the car sitting as I would like it to sit. Between your post and some really good info about springs from JamesDean, what seemed like a thorny problem is about to be resolved.

DieselPaul · #45 06-29-2015, 09:40 AM

My lowered W124 always rode ass high, low on fuel with nothing in it. I liked that it sat level with a full tank of fuel and people in the back seat, so I left it alone. I prefer riding a little high some of the time, rather than dragging the rear bumper when the car is full of stuff.

Car looks awesome by the way!