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  #76  
Old 09-10-2016, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwd4evr View Post
The pattern is correct. The problem is the Mercedes part is only 10" wide and the gto is 13 3/4 or so. So it looks like I will have to look into getting axles shortened and resplined. Crap. I wondering if there is a non abs version out there with thinner flanges. The abs rings take up a good bit of space.
Do you have the Holden/Pontiac center section in hand? If so, measure the width of the main casting at the point where the stub shafts enter it.
Then compare that with the same dimension from the MB version of the 185mm center section that does not have bolt on side bearing caps. (Found in 84-85 123s, some 83-89? 126s with 6-cyl gas/5-cyl diesel engines). If the width is close, pull the respective stub shafts for comparison. For that matter, compare with the stub shafts of the bolt-on cap style center section.
It may be more cost effective to modify the stub shafts, if necessary, than the half-shafts.

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  #77  
Old 09-10-2016, 04:10 PM
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I don't have one yet. I'm trying to determine if I can make it happen before I spend 250-350$ on one. I'm going to talk to the drive shaft shop and see what they think will be easiest/cheapest. This this will never make power to break it so hopefully they have some stock stuff laying around after someone making crazy turbo LS power traded in to modify. I just can't be spinning one tire and welding is the last ditch method. I really don't want to do that since its for road course racing.
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  #78  
Old 09-17-2016, 09:12 PM
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Well gto rear swap has an issue. the axles need to be almost 2" shorter a piece. The driveshaft shop says $600 for custom axles. Not in the lemons budget. I'm trying to find a car with a shorter axleshaft that has the same inner splines and the same outer cv joint so i can build a hybrid axle with the r107 outer stub axle and the shorter shaft. If anyone knows of a cv joint resource book or something that would help me figure that out please let me know. the other option is shortening the axles by cutting them and pressing the halves into a super heavy wall piece of tubing with some holes to plug weld plus weld the ends on too. I'm also going to look into re-splining them but i dont know if they are thick enough.
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  #79  
Old 10-12-2016, 02:40 AM
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Just got a w126 300SE parts car to play with courtesy of fonzi. it has annular axles,SWEET. they are a bit longer than the r107 axles but they are getting cut and shortened anyway. im hoping they are real close to 1 or 1 1/8" so they fit in a 1/4" wall dom tubing piece without machine work. Havent gotten a chance to measured them yet.
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  #80  
Old 11-22-2016, 03:13 AM
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I havent been on here in weeks after a great personal loss.

Alot of my time at the shop has been on parts sales and preparing for winter. I'm building a waste oil heater.
Ive made a little progress here and there with the car, i have a good fuel system from a parts car including the pump, accumulator and filter. i have a new pump and filter but im trying to keep the new parts list short for lemons inspection. I installed a konig performance oriented seat with great side bolsters(still kinda heavy but better than stock). I fabricated a short throw shifter handle that is way better than the baseball bat sized original, and used a B&M T-bar handle that was in one of my first cars. Fonzi helped me remove the replacement rear subframe from a 380Slc carcass he donated. Im going to install a 3.69 differential from a 280slc i own for now. The GTO 3.46 LSD rear swap is going to be done later after some shake down of the car, but is completly feasable after all the measuring. The annular axles are just a hair over 1" diameter, so just a claenup on a lathe will be needed to press the cut and shortened halves into a 6" long piece of 1" ID .25 wall DOM mild steel tubing. A series of holes will be drilled along the length of the tubing first and will be rosette welded along with the ends welded around the circumference.
After removing the rear window regulators, windows and louvers from the same 380 slc carcass i found that alone is probably close to 80# of weight right there. The massive rear window is probably 45-50#. the trunk is completly gutted and all the carpet and original seats are out. All that garbage was pretty heavy, not really sure how much. The door panels and dash are still in until after it gets inspected. The aluminum hood alone is over 50# difference. It will be interesting to see how much weight i can get out of it total and keep it street legal and semi comfortable. Im sure the ac system and plumbing is over 100#. All the unercoating is a lot im sure but will be a nightmare to remove.
Attached Thumbnails
1978 450SLC Super beater/lemons race car-b-m-t-bar.jpg  
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WARNING!!! VINTAGE MERCEDES MAY MULTIPLY UNCONTROLABLY!!! I have tons of Sl/Slc parts w108 w111 w126 and more. E-mail me with needs
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  #81  
Old 11-22-2016, 12:37 PM
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I can't recall the exact weight difference, but I think the aluminum hood is probably more like a 5-10 lbs difference.
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Past mb: '73 450sl, '81 280slc stick, '71 250, '72 250c, '70 250c, '79 280sl, '73 450sl, parted: '75 240d stick, '69 280s, '73 450slc, '72 450sl,
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  #82  
Old 11-22-2016, 01:46 PM
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No it's way more than that. The aluminum feels like cardboard to pick up and the steel is heavy.
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  #83  
Old 11-23-2016, 08:44 AM
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1978 450SLC Super beater/lemons race car

Kevin Kemper wrote and weighed the difference. It is surprisingly a lot less than it feels. I will bring my bathroom scale to the warehouse so you can get more accurate numbers on these part weights.
Aluminum: 22lbs
Steel: 50lbs
28lbs difference.
So we are both right. :-)

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1710073-280slc-snowball-rally.html#post5765798
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Past mb: '73 450sl, '81 280slc stick, '71 250, '72 250c, '70 250c, '79 280sl, '73 450sl, parted: '75 240d stick, '69 280s, '73 450slc, '72 450sl,
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  #84  
Old 12-14-2016, 05:21 AM
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I have removed the bent subframe and/or controm arm from the car (with lots of help from fonzi and the lift) . It a little spooky lifting the car off the weight of the subframe until all the energy is released from the springs and its all free. you want to have some weight on the wheels and a jack under the center of the diff when the last two bolts come out of the rear mount then remove the front re-enforcement bolts. then carefully loosen the main mount bolts. Stay clear as your lifting the car. Its hard to tell exactly what is bent because its so thick, but some thing certainly is.The car itself doesnt appear to be at all. So ive assembled a replacement rear subframe assembly from the 380slc subframe itself with its control arms, an with the axles and 3.69 differential from another 280slc parts car. The 2.47 wasnt gonna do it for me. I have to use the rear driveshaft half from the 280slc because of the smaller flex disc on the rear, and the front half thats in the 450slc because its from a 4 speed car. Unfortunately the center bearing on the 280slc is wasted. im going to try to get the 450slc center bearing off without destroying it, but kinda doubt it. I was at a piont i was satified with stopping(full day light) and didnt have the parts i needed. probably get back to it this weekend.
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1978 450SLC Super beater/lemons race car-received_10209299924674323.jpeg  
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WARNING!!! VINTAGE MERCEDES MAY MULTIPLY UNCONTROLABLY!!! I have tons of Sl/Slc parts w108 w111 w126 and more. E-mail me with needs
BirchsgarageMB@gmail.com

Last edited by rwd4evr; 12-14-2016 at 06:38 AM.
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  #85  
Old 12-14-2016, 05:32 AM
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Here is the assembled almost ready to go subframe. No brakes yet.
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1978 450SLC Super beater/lemons race car-screenshot_2016-12-14-12-16-05%7E2.jpg  
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WARNING!!! VINTAGE MERCEDES MAY MULTIPLY UNCONTROLABLY!!! I have tons of Sl/Slc parts w108 w111 w126 and more. E-mail me with needs
BirchsgarageMB@gmail.com

Last edited by rwd4evr; 12-14-2016 at 01:11 PM.
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  #86  
Old 12-20-2016, 09:09 PM
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I'm following this build.

I picked up a a pair of 450 SLCs earlier this year. Both neglected for like a decade, rotting in Richmond, CA. The slightly cleaner '74 now runs & will be somewhat of a daily driver, built primarily for Nor Cal vintage rallies.

The rattier '73 will give up it's best parts to the '74, and then be built for Gambler 500 onroad/offroad type rallies. I might take it on a track day or even Lemons racing if I ever care enough to make it race legal...
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  #87  
Old 12-20-2016, 09:43 PM
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Any updates or pics of the metal repairs? I remember seeing some metal cut out, and a new piece ready to weld in.
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Past mb: '73 450sl, '81 280slc stick, '71 250, '72 250c, '70 250c, '79 280sl, '73 450sl, parted: '75 240d stick, '69 280s, '73 450slc, '72 450sl,
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  #88  
Old 12-20-2016, 11:19 PM
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I wish i lived where there was more options for grassroots motorsports. i would love to rally this thing.
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  #89  
Old 12-21-2016, 12:02 AM
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I didnt get to weld thgat repair framerail piece yet. i got it fitted pretty well just needs a couple touches with the grinder. I am waiting for the sheetmetal i have at home to be there and fitted to figure out the best order to weld the donor cut out and fabricated piece in place. Then i have to spray some por15 or at least some rustoleum in there to try and keep rot at bay. I got a bunch of rot out, but to get it all would be opening up the whole rear rocker/frame section like a can.
I did swap all the brake components from a '77(ithink) 450 sl i got for a case of pumpkin ale. It is mostly stripped but was driving a year ago so its better than what was on it. Three of four calipers are nice but ones got a torn boot that needs to be replaced. Pads were all brand new looking. The rotors came up nice with a stringer bead wire wheel on the grinder. I let them spin on the hub while i went at them and it came up to a almost machined looking finish, but they were not pitted bad. The hoses are decent looking and im gonna put them on for now but they will get changed to stainless before its on a track. The subframe is completed and about ready to go back in. Im trying to decide if im going to cut the spings or not now since the fronts are a pain to get at and i dom't want it nose high. I have to order a center bearing but the two slc shaft halves fit together fine. Center bearing, shifter swap(reverse arm is bad on the one in it) and reassemble the fuel system and its about ready for dougnuts!
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WARNING!!! VINTAGE MERCEDES MAY MULTIPLY UNCONTROLABLY!!! I have tons of Sl/Slc parts w108 w111 w126 and more. E-mail me with needs
BirchsgarageMB@gmail.com

Last edited by rwd4evr; 12-21-2016 at 04:18 AM.
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  #90  
Old 01-24-2017, 07:13 PM
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I've made some progress here and there. I got the center bearing and drive shaft assembly ready to go. I got the first piece of rust repair welded in. The whole area below the weld I'm pointing at was basically gone from rust. I think it is structural so I had to do it right. My first welding with this machine and it's been a couple years. The fact that it was out of position(welding upwards)and thinner material than I'm used to didn't help but I got it after some machine adjustment and trial and error. I probably should have hacked out a little more of the outer to get the inner on the top side but oh well. It's in nice and solid. I got the filler piece fabbed up for the outer. I also removed the majority of the undercoating I needed to address the rest of the rust in the foot wells. The rest isn't structural so the thinner material used is so much easier to massage into place. No wonder these cars are so heavy. The rubber is over a 1/4" thick in many places. Plus it's so thick if there is a rust issue under it it hides it until it's too late. Once I got this metal work all buttoned up the subframe and fuel system can go back in. Coming along nicely.
Attached Thumbnails
1978 450SLC Super beater/lemons race car-20170124_050150%7E2.jpg  

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WARNING!!! VINTAGE MERCEDES MAY MULTIPLY UNCONTROLABLY!!! I have tons of Sl/Slc parts w108 w111 w126 and more. E-mail me with needs
BirchsgarageMB@gmail.com

Last edited by rwd4evr; 01-25-2017 at 11:49 AM.
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