Cross-Drilled or Solid rotors: The Bottom Line Answers
Ok, there has been a lot of static in the forum regarding this topic. I want to know the final facts.
Particulars: * Car MB: 300E * Driving style: Aggressive - daily speeds over 90 mph (driving in Europe) Heavy usage of the brakes. * Keeping the stock brake calipers, and thus, the stock size rotors * Considering high quality (chamfered) Cross-drilled and/or slotted rotors * Have heard that unless you increase the size of the rotor, cross-drilling merely reduces frictional surface area, canceling any braking benefits * Have heard that slotted rotors eat pads and are non-functional gimick * Have heard that stock solids function well enough, provided you couple it up with a high quality pad (e.g., Metal Master...) Ok ... enough debate! What are the facts here? Let's go to the Bottem Line please. Can anyone clear this up - in a straight forward manner? Thanks, David |
I cannot, or shall I say, I will not attempt to get into this debate, but I can state my observations.
I have a 94 E500 with stock calipers and I bought some cross drilled rotors from KVR Performance (www.kvrperformance.com) for my car. I run PBR Metal Master Pads. I went with KVR becuase they were the only people that had cross drilled rotors that were OEM sized, they also have slotted or a combination of both. I did not want to change out my calipers and what not. KVR rotors are chamferred. I do know a few others that run these rotors with not problems. For the record, I have an agressive driving style and I drive at least 85-90 mph everyday on the highway, though I have been slowing down to about 80mph lately as this is the time of the year I collect tickets. :D I have been extremely pleased with KVR. I turned Carl from Bergwerks (www.bergwerks.com) onto these and he checked them out before I purchased mines and he said they were all good. They used quality materials. You may want to contact him for some more info. Here is a pic of mines, though it is not a good pic as it doesn't show the rotors that much. http://www.nemonis.net/shanta/wheels/1.jpg |
I installed cross-drilled/chamfered Brembo rotors front and rear on a non-MB car I had a few years ago. I used the car for Monte Carlo style rallying in So. Calif. that involved a goodly amount of high-speed back road and mountain driving. I was experiencing serious brake fade and rotor warping with the stock brakes. The Brembo's, coupled with Porterfield R4S pads at both ends and Goodridge stainless brake lines were like a night and day difference. No more fade; consistent, solid braking performance, especially in the wet; and no more rotor warpage. I have to give a lot of credit to the Porterfield pads. They have excellent braking response at all speeds, even when cold, they hardly dust at all and they last a ridiculously long time for a performance brake pad. They're pricey, but a bargain in the long run. I would highly recommend them. I'll be putting them on my 300E in the near future.
Gary |
Love your wheels Shanta !
One other consideration is Cryogenically treated rotors. I know of one member here that tracks his car and has used OEM, cryo treated rotors with good results.
I have purchased, but not yet installed some OEM, cryo treated and slotted rotors. Still need to get pads and refinish / rebuild the OE Porsche-Brembo calipers on my 500E. |
Shanta -
Do you have the Porsche-Brembo aluminum calipers? I can't tell from the picture. |
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Thanks for the compliment on my wheels. :D |
That's right, forgot you had a 94.
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Re: Cross-Drilled or Solid rotors: The Bottom Line Answers
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2. drilling holes in your rotors reduces total swept area. 3. heat build-up is not a problem for anything but sustained track racing. 4. drilled rotors look cool :cool: |
Re: Re: Cross-Drilled or Solid rotors: The Bottom Line Answers
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With cross drilled rotors, whether or not you track your car. Eventually, they will end up like this. Notice, this are chamferred
http://www.2phast.com/badrotor.jpg |
I run slotted & cryo-treated rotors (320mm off of 600SL). The slots I do for looks-as I understand it, the brake compounds nowadays don't off gas like the old ones, so slots or holes are unnecessary from this standpoint. From a performance standpoint, solid rotors should be fine.
Cryo - plain & simple: it works! I ran cryo'd rotors for 20+ track days, and they never cracked...I'd still have them on the car if I didn't destroy them with a couple of sets of EBC Reds(VERY aggressive on rotors). Due to time constraints, I replaced them with slotted/non-cryo'd rotors, and they're toast after only 7 or 8 track days. I've been on my rear slotted & cryo'd rotors for 3 years now, and they look as-new (my 600SL rear setup rtemains in the box, as the current rear brakes are completely adequate). |
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Drilled rotors do look cool I have them on my 300CD with 560SEL front brakes. I am trying out ate power slots on 500E front brakes right now, I will see if they really do cut up pads. If drilled and slotted stuff was a bad idea brembo wouldnt do it. Look at their GT kit you can choose what you want. Take it easy, |
omegabenz
I agree with you on the cast part of " cross-drilled " rotors. I remember talking to a Brembo rep. one time & he stated to me, nothing pisses Brembo off more, than some " tuners " buying Brembo rotors, cross-drilling them and then selling the rotors for twice the original cost. Of course when the rotor develops cracks, Brembo gets blamed for it. :eek: |
Zimmerman rotors (cast) and textar (yellow box) pads. Best combo i've ever used.
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