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  #1  
Old 10-12-2004, 07:25 PM
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Trunk Lock Problem

1986 560SL The outer area that the key goes in to came out. The trunk lock still worked.

But now I cant get the trunk open to fix it.

When I unlock yhe door I cant hear the Trunk lock work.

The Key when inserted in the trunk lock it rotates 180 degress. I can push it in but the trunk will not open.

How do I get it open?

Do I look for a Trunk lid and just Sawzall a hole in the lid? LOL

Thanks Steve

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  #2  
Old 10-12-2004, 08:13 PM
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Close to it! You have to drill about a 1/4" hole at about the 5 o'clock position to the lock cyclinder and push in on the part the lock cylinder is supposed to push in on. When you're done then you have to replace the chrome strip you drilled the hole in to. If the latch itself is bad (which you'll find out after drilling the hole) THEN you can punch out a tail light so you can remove the fasteners for the striker on the body.

Gilly
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  #3  
Old 10-12-2004, 10:40 PM
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Where do I drill?

If I do have to go in thru the tail light is one side better thanthe other? Also will I be breakig the inner housing also?

Is there any thing electrical I should check first?
Can I go thru the license plate Light?
Thanks Steve
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Trunk Lock Problem-pict0003.jpg  
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  #4  
Old 10-12-2004, 11:00 PM
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OK, looking at that image, it'd be more like the 3 or 4 o'clock position relative to the chrome button, then a rod (not wire, too weak, more like a brazing rod) is inserted into the hole, at such an angle it'll hit the lever on the latch that the lock would be pushing on. You're using this rod to do the job the lock cylinder would do. NORMALLY this would open it. Unless the latch itself is junk. If you need to knock out the lens, find out if one is cheaper, I don't think it matters as far as unscrewing the striker.
If you need to drill, I think you need to drill through the chrome piece and the body, but after you replace the chrome piece you won't see the hole. Be sure to drill slightly in towards the centerline of the car.
The lock is vacuum actuated, no wire. I'd be more inclined to mess with the KEY in this rear lock cylinder than any other approach to the problem. You could luck out. If it opens, remove the bolts that hold the striker in palce IMMEDIATLY before it accidentally gets closed again!

Gilly
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Old 10-13-2004, 01:46 AM
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Could it be the vacuum lineis broken Could I apply some Vacuum to it and maybe get it to release?

Where would I find a vacuum line diagram ? Thanks Steve
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  #6  
Old 10-13-2004, 05:17 AM
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Nope, the lock cylinder is doing the same thing the vacuum is, plus you say you can hear the servo operating (I thought you said that).
Vacuum diagram is in the trunk....Ha! Just kidding. Various sources, the MB manual on disc for example should have it, but again I don't think it'll help you
at this point.
Gilly
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  #7  
Old 10-14-2004, 10:46 AM
PeteO
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I had a similar issue on my 380. The trunk lock would not lock or unlock with the vacum control. To get it unlocked with the key was not impossible but I had to really persuade it. What I had found was the circlip that atched the actuator for them solinoid to the lock tumbler fell off. Just bumping the car would relock the trunk. Drove me knots till I really looked into it. I could unlock the tunk come back 10 minutes later and it would lock on it's own. After I replaced the missing circlip it functions perfect now
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Old 10-14-2004, 02:30 PM
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Thanks Randy and Pete for your info. I will see if I can get it open. When I do I an going to rig a release like thge posches have so this will never happen again. My wife like to drive the SL but I wont let her untill the trunk is fin . If she gets a flat AAA will not be able to change the tire. Thanks Steve
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  #9  
Old 11-01-2004, 12:09 AM
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Well I have tried several different things but it is still locked.
Does anyone have a photo of the lock so I can see what I am dealing with?
Has anyone driiled out the lock Cylinder?
Thanks Steve
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  #10  
Old 11-01-2004, 04:39 AM
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Have you drilled the hole so you can push on the latch itself? This is the only good way to do this. Or bust out a tail light lense to unbolt the catch.......
Gilly
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  #11  
Old 11-01-2004, 08:53 AM
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Gilly et al. -

In an amazing coincidence -

A couple of weeks ago, I bought a beater 107, but more about that later.

Bolts had been broken off in the threaded inserts that hold the license plate. Getting them out required going in through the covers on the inside of the trunk, one of which positions the vacuum element for the trunk lock.

With everything back together, guess what? The trunk will not unlock. I can move the key as normal, and hear the actuator move if I lock/unlock the door.

My question is - should I mess with drilling the hole, or go right to the taillight busting, or is there yet another trick to try?

TIA
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Chuck Taylor
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'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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  #12  
Old 11-01-2004, 01:13 PM
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???

I've never done this before (and fortunately haven't had to) but why can't you just drill the cylinder out of there? Take a nice thick drill bit and go right at the keyhole. Won't that break enough of the cylinder that the hood could be opened?
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  #13  
Old 11-01-2004, 05:21 PM
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Wait!

I just looked at the inside of the trunk on my other 107. The screws for the latch are on the horizontal surfaces that close on each other. I don't see how you can get at them through the taillight.
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Chuck Taylor
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'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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  #14  
Old 11-01-2004, 11:46 PM
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Can someone post some photos?
Where do I drill to be able to get the latch to release?
I need to get it opened as I cant drive it be cause I couldnt change the tire if I get a flat.
Thanks Steve
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  #15  
Old 11-02-2004, 04:32 AM
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Looking at the picture you posted of the lock, it looks pretty messed up already, so maybe the idea of drilling out the lock has some merit. You'd be doing about the same thing if you drilled a hole in the chrome trim, must trying to push in on the latch with a rod of some sort. The latch itself never locks, what happens is the distance piece that pushes in on the latch is moved so it won't push on the latch. This is done by moving it mechanically with the key, or the vacuum servo moves it automatically when locking/unlocking the drivers door lock.
On last reort is if the key will actually move in the trunk lock cylinder, turn it VERY hard, sometimes the distance piece will just barely touch the latch and open the trunk. If you want to drill the chrome, do it at about the 3 o'clock position (as I think I've said twice now) which is just to the right of the lock cylinder.
I've HEARD of people busting the tail light to open the trunk, never had to do it, so I am uncertain if this is an easier but less economical way of opening it, ctaylor may be correct, I'd have to have a 107 to study before I'd recommend it.
Gilly

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