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Buying 1990 300SL - what else to look for?
Hello all,
I'm going to look at a 1990 300SL in 2 days, and was hoping for some help on what to look for. I have a 300SDL and 560SL, so I'm quite familiar with these cars, but not so familiar with the R129's specifically. Here's what I know about the car according to owner: 1. Runs good, good condition, no problems, everything works. 2. He has had it 4 years and only drives "occasionally" in the summer. 3. Car has about 60k miles on it. 4. Was repainted by previous owner. They painted the lower body cladding the same color. 5. Owner didn't seem to know this, but the wheels are the newer style and it has the updated clear corner lights. I think the previous owner liked the 1996+ style and did the basic updates. Here's what I plan to look at quite carefully other than the obvious stuff: 1. Paint, especially the lower body cladding (was flex primer used?) Owner says paint is in perfect shape, and since it's been 4+ years I assume any problems would have been quite obvious by now. 2. He says no accidents but I'll look closely 3. Won't worry about wiring harness (1990 should be too early for this problem, right?) 4. Top operation. Owner says it works perfectly but I'll try it a few times 5. A/C. Same as above, but I know it's a big $$$ repair so I'll verify. Any other specifics I need to look for? The car is priced below market value and I think it's due to three reasons: 1. He says some of the stitches are coming apart in minor areas of the front seats. I assume this is a huge issue to a typical buyer of this kind of car. 2. He's 2+ hours from the big city.. in a little country town. Car prices around here can be $5k different as nobody wants to buy outside of the city. 3. No hardtop. I don't think this is a huge issue as I'll buy one on eBay, pick it up, and have it painted. Will drive the car year round so this is necessary (I know, I know ![]() Any problem areas I'm leaving out? Can't have a PPI done but if I can find the major stuff, I'll be happy. I am assuming if there are no major engine/transmission/top/AC/electrical problems and the body checks out OK, I should be in good shape.. Thanks for any help you guys can provide! Neal
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'83 300SD 335,000km (207k) mi SOLD '87 560SL 163,000km (101k mi) SOLD '86 300SDL 356,000km (220k mi) SOLD '92 500SEL 250,000km (155k mi) SOLD '90 300SL 140,000km (87k mi) SOLD '01 S430 260,000km (161k mi) SOLD '03 SL500 167,000km (104k mi) SOLD '07 S550 4MATIC 235,000km (146k mi) SOLD '07 GL320 CDI 4MATIC 348,000km (215k mi) '13 GL350 BlueTec 4MATIC 170,000km (105k mi) '14 SL550 72,000km (43k mi) |
#2
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Sounds like you pretty much covered everything.
The 300SL is equipped with the M104 engine (same as offered in the 92-95 W124-series). That said, with the low mileage, you are years away from the age-old problems of the head gasket and timing cover leaks. Not sure why MB went with the two-tone body color, as many of us R129 owners went the same route with painting the cladding to match. I have this on my "to-do" list down the road. Soft top operation is generally reliable despite its complexity. The most commonly mentioned failures are the locking mechanism cylinders along the top of the windshield. The seals eventually leak prior to total failure, and you will notice hydraulic fluid weeping from the top of the windshield pillars. Fortunately, the parts aren't too expensive and the job can be performed in your garage in around an hour. The fluid reservoir is located beneath the spare. Check the level, for it may be a good idea to replenish with fresh fluid given the car's age. Sluggish top operation dramatically improves with this simple technique. I'm pretty happy with mine. So far, in my 5 years of ownership I've replaced a few dash bulbs, both locking cylinders, the console latch, the battery, a fuel hose clamp, and the windshield washer pump. All of this performed in my garage at a total cost for parts around $600! Oh yeah, got tires last year, which I didn't include in the above cost. Our hardtop has been on the car probably twice. It pretty much spends its life suspended above the car.
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2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle 2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car 2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver 2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car |
#3
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I have a 95 320SL and a friend with a 1990 300SL. be sure there is no signs of rust anywhere on the car, otherwise you covered most issues, be sure to get familiar with the procedure for putting the top up in case of failure, the factory tool kit has a wrench that you use for this purpose, you will be happy to know how to do this in case it starts raining and you have to scramble to put the top up, I have seen hardtops on Ebay for $1000 or so, grab one when you can, if you do get it be sure to go from front to back and replace all the fluids except for the brakefluids, change hoses and check brakes and repack wheel bearings and you should be good to go!
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Jerry 2004 SL500 Black 55K Miles ![]() 2002 s500 Black 90K Miles ![]() 1986 300E Gold 233K Miles ![]() 1966 Twin Cessna 320D ![]() 1989 Jeep Cherokee 233K Miles ![]() 1994 Ford Van E150 399K Miles ![]() |
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