steering box adjustment

[Captain Scott]

OK, I follow you. This seems like it should be obvious by I must be missing something (not a new story.) I'll throw this out to you all...

Case 1) Car not running: I turn the steering wheel and the movement of the wheels is 1:1, and the slightest movement shows up in the front wheels.

Case 2) Car now running at idle and warm: slight turn of steering wheel shows no front wheel movement... ie slop appears when the fluid is moving.... This shows up while driving at all speeds as about 1/8 turn of slop in steering wheel before I get a positive steering repose from the wheels.

So I see a mechanical 1:1 steering gear box repsonse only when the car is not running. If fluid is moving in the proper passages, then the play develops. My original logic was that the box needed to be adjusted to tighten her up. But could it be that when the fluid is moving the other mechanical components could be suspect???

Originally Posted by Tomit1

well captain, I would say that if you get 1:1 with the steering wheel to tire movement, it means that the gearbox is OK, do not adjust it because it can make things worse.
I think (in order of highest probability) you need to check: front subframe mounts, idler arm bushings, lower ball joints or any ball joints in the steering linkages.

[Kebowers]

I found it FAR easier and much faster to simply remove the steering box, adjust it off the car, and reinstall.

[Captain Scott]

(does this sound like a song?)

I finally sent her to the alignment shop to get the pull fixed. While she was up, I asked the front end shop (recommended by my mercmech) to try to adjust the 1" of steering wheel play out. I changed the coupling, so I knew it was either the adjustment or a worn out box. With 213K on her, I was fairly sure I was looking at a new/reman gear box... and they wanted $1200 USD to do it! But first try the adjustment?

The guys said they couldn't get the collar nut loose so they said sorry, can't do, and they just re-aligned her up. It was good job, but the play still had me bugged. I went to Sears and got the right tools I was short on as advised by others here on this forum and in I went.

It was nothing to break the nut loose and then a few rounds of adjusting (CCW!) and checking and now she is as tight as day one, way back in 1974!!! I am astounded that it was so easy to tighten her up. It still leaks a bit, but that is another day and another story that has yet to play out.

Thanks again everyone for the advice to DIY. You saved me over a thousand bucks and now I know my girl even better. With brand new leather seat covers and pads, she is even sweeter on the inside, too!

S

Originally Posted by Captain Scott

Sorry Dig for not being clear.

Yes! 1:1 is what I'm after. But I want it while the tires are spinning!! I have no play at the curb with the engine off. Does that mean the gears are NOT worn?? Once I start and pull away, I get the play. So it is either the box adjustment or the gearing is worn. I've just yet to get the tools and try to get at the outer nut/inside hex bolt try adjusting it. But for my, my PS pumps started to whine at idle while turning in the parking lots. Since I changed the filter and it didn't help, it may be time to exchange the pump itself...

S

[sokoloff]

One inch of play is spec for that steering. If you took out all the play, then it's likely that before long you are going to need to spend that $1200.

Len

[Captain Scott]

Uh oh. DIY doesn't always mean it was done right...

I hear you and will back it off a little bit.

Originally Posted by sokoloff

One inch of play is spec for that steering. If you took out all the play, then it's likely that before long you are going to need to spend that $1200.

Len

[deportes]

ccw adjustment doesn't make sense? i would have thought the the hex screw goes in for adjusting. what do i know. i will have to try ccw adjustment.

[hill]

I had the steering box rebuilt after 186k miles and two adjustments. On my 1972 w107. When you set the box too tight you will now imedately so go a quarter turn at a time.

[Roncallo]

It seams like some of you may be doing a lot of excees work. On my 1986 560SL with an M117 engine, I was able to do this job without removing anything. I used a crows foot wrench head, In using that I was able to get at it through the exhaust manifold. It was a while ago so I dont remember the exact set up. I was either a crows foot on a woble type extension or on a universal joint. It was still somewhat difficult but only took about 1 hour. Most of the time was jacking the car up and removing the airbag. I dident do it but the pitman arm should really be disconnected. The rotational torque through the stearing column should be checked as the box passes center point. I did the torque check but with the pitman arm connected. I just looked for a few inch pound increase in rotational torque.

Mine took well over a turn. This is probably because one of the bearings supporting the pitman shaft or the shaft itself is worn, which is probably also why the seal is leaking. It made a world of difference in driving.

I now have the box out of the car and will attempt an overhaul of this area. My guess it that I will be out of luck because the internal hard parts are not available.

John Roncallo

[deportes]

i checked my steering and the center link is worn out. will have to replace it.

[kartoffelpanzer]

I had my steering box adjusted back in september. Took two mechanics to get it right. The first one couldn't seem to get it and insisted that I needed a new gearbox. The second guy said no problem, adjusted it and returned it to spec. My car just turned 400k miles and I believe the gearbox is the original.

The second mechanic explained to me that even when set correctly, there's supposed to be a good amount of play in it. I think I've read on this or another forum that a good road-test is that the steering wheel should re-center itself when you exit out of a turn.

My car's a 300SD W116, FWIW. Hope this helps.

Rob