buyer advice 89 560sl

[gregbenz]

I'm looking for some input on possibly buying a 1989 560 sl roadster w/ 85,000 miles in excellent condition for $15,000 -one owner, looks perfect. Does this seem like a fair price ? Hard and soft tops, soft top brand new. What kind of gas mileage do these get ? Any advice would be great. -Thanks, Greg

[Walrus]

Originally Posted by gregbenz

I'm looking for some input on possibly buying a 1989 560 sl roadster w/ 85,000 miles in excellent condition for $15,000 -one owner, looks perfect. Does this seem like a fair price ? Hard and soft tops, soft top brand new. What kind of gas mileage do these get ? Any advice would be great. -Thanks, Greg

My opinion and a buck-fifty will buy you a cup of coffee, but here goes.

Price is near top, based on some basic assumptions of a 1989 with the reported miles and in the condition you state. More if docs support service history, less if absent.

I get routine 18plus in hghway/city mixed driving, and I check it every tankful (anal retentive, I know). Approx 60 hghway/40city.

Secure a ppi from a knowledgable mechanic if you are not 100% sure about the claims... At 15K US dollars, I would not expect too much refurb costs, but allow for a couple of thou for timing guides (if not recently done), mixture/fuel injection service if not well-maintained.

Bengay for your Jaw muscles... You will be grining so much each time you drive it, that you'll cramp up

Good luck, and enjoy.

[derryb]

and how that is giving you second thoughts. Seller might panic and drop price. Can barely afford to fill my 560's tank, but i ain't gonna panic....yet!

[Strife]

If its an honest car and there's no rust, I don't find the price to be a very good deal, but it isn't ridiculous. I paid ~16K for a very nice 82Kmi rust-free car that had obviously been babied two years ago. I could have gotten a better price, but I still don't regret it, because I didn't have to travel to get it or have it shipped.

Be aware that you will STILL have to spend money on it if you want a nice car that will last.

The ONLY rust I found was 1" spot under the soft top cover (bad seal). No matter how a car has been babied, seals are rarely changed preventatively until AFTER there is rust, and the car is 17 years old. A full set of body seals, hood pads, etc for this car will easily cost 600 even with shopping (taillight seals, $200/pair; door seals, 150; hood pads, $120 with the glue;top seals, 150). Subframe mounts (see this site to find out if they are bad - $50. Motor mounts - $100, you do the work, otherwise quadruple the price on the frame/motor stuff). Seeing non-MB coolant in the overflow bottle would cause me to immediately deduct for radiator replacement. If the paint on the wheels is bad, $400+ tire replacement labor. No service records for tune-ups, fluid replacements, etc means you must assume that they were not done, and you will need to do this right away; $500+ (the dist cap is $100, wires 100, etc). Belts, etc. You are not far at all from a timing system overhaul (chain, tensioner, arm, upper guides) - even with your wrench, parts are not inexpensive and you can't get them all locally (but Advance Auto has surprised me).

Little things add up, ask my wallet. I would try get the price down a bit. This will leave you more to spend. Then, unlike me, keep receipts for all that you do or buy. If you want to sell it you WILL get some of that money back from a knowledgeable buyer.

[Roncallo]

At $15K it should be in almost showroom condition for that milage. The prices are going down with increasing gas prices. The original sticker onj the cars claims 17 highway 14 city. On long relaxed trips I will exceed 17.2 mpg. My daily commute 25 miles highway each way, usually consiting of some 100+ mph sprints has been averaging about 15.5 mpg.

John Roncallo