door window catching 107

[coleyjf]

Hi All

Help needed in a window adjustment.

I've an '88 300Sl (European/UK model) 107 in great condition apart from an annoying problem with the passenger door (LHS) window which I've had on and off since I bought her nearly 12 months ago.

The window goes up OK and appears to seat correctly although it does seem a bit angled to the inside of the car,(sometimes goes the wrong side of the rubber seal when the roof is off) BUT often when you power it "down" (open the window) it makes a loud and unsettling "crack". The guy I bought it off had mentioned it when I tested the car and said it was a simple adjustment with an allen key! BUT I can't find where of what to adjust (the CD manual I have dosen't seem to be much help)

I've tried a few searches on this forum but no avail ( perhaps I'm using the wrong language (UK English not US English!)

Any help will be most apreciated

Cheers

Jim

[ericdee]

Jim,

There's a plug on the door right below the door lock that's one adjustment point, also there are two Allen key adjustment points behind the door panel.

Be careful it's real easy to get the window way out of line, could take hours to get it back to were it was.

[Roncallo]

I will be putting together a DIY on this shortly. I just replaced my windows and took pictures, but I forgot to take 2 or 3 very important pictures so if someone hase there 107 door pannel off, I need pictures of the back side of the door pannel showing.

1) The plastic hook up front by the map holder.
2) The metal clip in the center of the door that supports the aft end of the arm rest
3) The plastic and metal clips at the bottom and forward and aft edges.

But in general the CD does have the procedure for an early 107. Its under adjustment of the crank window. For the most part the proceedure is adaquate for the newer 107's but you will have to use your imagination in some areas.

The bolts you are looking for are under a plastic cover at the bottom part of the back end of the door and under the chrome plate at the top part of the back end of the door. These bolts adjust the window angle and pressure against the gasket at the back end of the door but do not adjust the window up or down height.

There is another stud with a nut on both sides of the metal inside door pannel that adjusts the angle of the forward end of the glass. This stud is attached to the bottom of the forward window guide. Loosen the nuts and shift the position of the nuts as needed.

Two bolts at the top of the forward window guide set the seal of the guide to the doorframe seal.

Window up is adjusted by two bolts along the top edge of the door under the door pannel and 1 allen bolt on the window regulator.

Window Down is adjusted by one bolts at the bottom center edge of the window pane and 1 allen bolt on the window regulator.

The up and down stop allen bolts on the window regulator are not mensioned on the CD. But they are present on my 560SL with electric windows.

Hope this helps

John Roncallo

[coleyjf]

Eric and John

Thanks for the help, and the words of caution - I'll have a go later today.

Cheers

Jim

[coleyjf]

Hi again

Tried the adjustment through the bung below the lock and it helps a bit but not quite enough - it seems like I need to adjust the lift hight a bit so I'll have to take the door panels off later.

Thanks again guys

Jim

[Richard Wooldridge]

Hi there,
My 380SL was making loud crack noise like that on the driver's side door, and it was the front upper stop. The stop metal was positioned crooked, and part of the window actuator was hitting it. Also on my car the weather protect plastic under the door panel was missing, and it's absolutely essential in our rainy Northwest! If yours is gone, be sure to make another out of some 3 mil or thicker plastic.
Just another thing to check...

[coleyjf]

Thank you all for your help (especially John with your pictures).

I've now solved the problem - or should I say you've all helped solve the problem!

"The upper allen bolt behind the chrome panel above the door lock" was loose - adjusted and tightened it and lo and behold no more noisy crack and the window closes correctly into the groove in the door seal.

Thanks again

Jim

[al76slc]

"The upper allen bolt behind the chrome panel above the door lock" was loose - adjusted and tightened it and lo and behold no more noisy crack and the window closes correctly into the groove in the door seal.
Could someone explain this, or better yet, enclose a photo? Where are we working - door jamb, inside door, or inside door panel?

Thanks a lot!!!

[230/8]

Look at your CD ROM manual and find Job # 72-195. It is in the chassis section for doors. There are plenty of photos to assist in fixing your problem and show you what adjustment point to use for a specific movement of the window assembly. But, as others have cautioned, go slow, use care and remember that small increments of adjustment are the best course to take.

Group 72 deals with the doors. Plenty of information there, and many ways to get in over your head, so take it easy. While you have the door apart, make sure the tracks and gears are lubed. Old grease can make things stiff and sticky.

230/8

[W Black]

Does the 107 CD manual have details on how to replace and adjust the door windows? I need to replace the drivers window.I have the window and have the broken one out but need detailed instructions on how to install the new one. Has anyone posted a DYI for this?

Thanks

W Black

[coleyjf]

Al76slc asked :

"The upper allen bolt behind the chrome panel above the door lock" was loose - adjusted and tightened it and lo and behold no more noisy crack and the window closes correctly into the groove in the door seal.

Could someone explain this, or better yet, enclose a photo? Where are we working - door jamb, inside door, or inside door panel?"


The area where I adjusted and tightened the allen boolts was on the end of the door between the outer skin and the inner trim,

One allen bolt is under the chrome trim plate (held on with 3 small chrome headed crosshead screws) situated at the top of the door edge.

This was loose on my case and tightening it solved the problem. This is one of the two adjusters for the window angle.


The other allen bolt is hidden behind an oval plastic cover (prise it out with your finger nails (or a plastic kitchen bowl scraper) NOT a screwdriver as metal will scratch the paintwork). This cover is about 3 inches from the bottom of the edge of the door close to the outer skin (Not the round cover a bit higher - ignore this one)

This allen bolt adjusts the rake of the window - I found it best to adjust this with the window nearly at the top - definitely NOT with the window at the bottom.

NOW have a picture (click on the link)

http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jim.coley@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=5661&.dnm=89e2re2.jpg&.src=ph

(easier that way)



Cheers

Jim

[230/8]

W Black:

The CD ROM manual has an abundance of information, but it is sometimes hard to find what you need. Group 72 covers the doors. This and other work groups are easiest to isolate when you use the library index available here:

http://homepage.mac.com/dakota/1/index.html

This index system is a piece of cake to install on your PC and works like a charm.

230/8

[al76slc]

Jim and 230/8

Thanks for your help. The picture told me what I needed to know. Can't wait to try.

I've only been living with the "pop" for a few years.... or maybe more than a few.

Al

[xkeots]

Hi All,

I put up a similar question and I am now reading this.
My drivers window goes up to the point that you see the window rubber on the chrome piece by the side mirror stretching. My window goes up almost to the top of the hard top rubber. I have to keep the window a little down and play with the switch or else the window bends back when I close the door.
Is the adjustment behind the chrome plate the correct one?

Thanks
Jack
1980 450 SL

PS I have been a vintage Jaguar guy & worked on my own Jags my whole life, I never worked on my Me/be's. They are a different beast. I am sorry for posting so many questions but I feel lost with the 560 SEC & the 450 SL.
Thanks for everyone's help.

[Richard Wooldridge]

Hi Jack
The answer is no. There are three adjustments you should check. The first two are the front and rear window upstops, the third is the actuator arm upstop. The actuator has an upstop and a downstop, and is capable of bending things if those stops are incorrectly adjusted. They limit the up and down travel of the actuator arm. The front and rear window upstops are located under the inner door panel, at the top of the inner door frame area.

When the glass is correctly aligned and adjusted, the front upper edge of the window pane will just touch the rubber seal when the door engages the first stage of the door lock. (Use the rear guide rail and front lower guide rail adjustments to adjust for this.) With the door completely closed, the pane should rest in it's complete length against the inner lip of the front/top rubber seal. The door pane should clear the outer lip when the door is closed. (use the upstops to adjust for this)

The glass pane should be adjusted fore and aft so that when it is up it is fully seated in the rubber seal at the front. (Use the front lifting rail adjustment screws to adjust for this.)

The glass pane should contact the rubber seal evenly, height-wise. (Use the rear lifting rail adjustment to adjust for this.) On my '82 380SL, the actuator arm was actually bent because the actuator upstop was incorrectly adjusted, causing the rear of the glass to be over 1/2" too low, which was too much to adjust for with the rear lifting rail adjustments. It was necessary to straighten the actuator arm to repair this problem.

Whenever you work on a door, be sure to replace the protective plastic sheeting under the inner door panel, it keeps the inner door panel from disintegrating when it rains.

Regards,