After storage start up. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

embe560sl · #1 04-05-2009, 02:30 PM

My 560Sl has been in winter storage for 6 months. I have not turned the motor over during that period. I thought in order to get the oil circulated a bit before firing up, I would disconnect the coil lead from the distributor and crank it over a few times before reconnecting. Does anyone see a potential problem with this to anything ?

tecqboy · #2 04-05-2009, 03:33 PM

Better to pull the fuse for the fuel pump. Avoids dumping unburned gas
down the cylinders.

bwostosh · #3 04-05-2009, 11:50 PM

And pull the spark plugs, spin until oil pressure peaks. or see oiling thru the oil filler cap.

donbryce · #4 04-06-2009, 09:49 AM

Make sure you ground the distributor lead, as not doing so will, I've read here, do major damage to your ignition components.

dugald · #5 04-06-2009, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by donbryce

Make sure you ground the distributor lead, as not doing so will, I've read here, do major damage to your ignition components.

PAY HEED.
I found out the hard way that this is true. If you fail to ground the coil output, you are likely to fry your coil and the EZL. BIG BUCKS.

donbryce · #6 04-16-2009, 10:28 PM

I debated whether to start the engine and let it warm up, then change the oil, or change the oil first before starting. Mine too has been sitting since October, 1986 560SL. I was changing to Mobil 1 from 5W30 Quaker State.
I decided that, since I'd run a couple of bottles of Risilone through it, late last summer, it would be better to drain and change the oil before starting....why distribute dirty oil all through the engine, and it has had all winter to drain down to the sump. I don't know if this was the right decision, but it seems logical to me.

embe560sl · #7 04-18-2009, 11:59 AM

Changing the oil is a must do BUT it is highly recommended to change it before going into storage lock down. Old oil starts to go acidic or whatever after standing long periods, so I am told. Also, synthetic oil is again the preferred choice over regular 5/30. I have also been told by the same MB indy that there is nothing gained by turning the motor over at starter speed before firing up as the oil pump does not reach required pressure for full circulation? Is there anyone out there who disagrees with this?

ctaylor738 · #8 04-19-2009, 06:47 PM

I would pull the fuel pump relay out (there is no fuse), crank in 10 second bursts until you have oil pressure, reinstall the relay, and let 'er rip. Go for a drive to get the oil good and hot, then change the oil and filter.

embe560sl · #9 04-20-2009, 02:04 PM

Well CTaylor, that sounds good advice and much safer than pulling the coil lead ...now, if you don't mind ...... where do I find this fuel pump relay? Thanks.

ctaylor738 · #10 04-20-2009, 02:49 PM

It's above the fuse panel, you remove the passenger side under-dash panel to get to it. You can bring up a picture of it at Fastlane. IIRC, you need to undo a 10mm nut to take it out.

It may be easier to undo one of the wires at the fuel pump, back by the RR wheel.

embe560sl · #11 04-20-2009, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctaylor738

It's above the fuse panel, you remove the passenger side under-dash panel to get to it. You can bring up a picture of it at Fastlane. IIRC, you need to undo a 10mm nut to take it out.

It may be easier to undo one of the wires at the fuel pump, back by the RR wheel.

If I had it home that would be no problem but it is in a commercial storage unit with no facilities etc. Would pulling out the fuse to the pumps work?

ctaylor738 · #12 04-20-2009, 05:56 PM

There is no fuse, the relay is hard-wired to the battery.

On the passenger top inner fender, there is a large terminal where the main battery cable comes in. On one of the posts there is a sizeable red wire that goes to the relay. If you disconnect that wire, you will kill the power to the pump.

You don't want to just kill the spark and crank, because then you will get fuel in the cylinders with no spark. Just starting the car is preferable to that.

embe560sl · #13 04-22-2009, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctaylor738

There is no fuse, the relay is hard-wired to the battery.

On the passenger top inner fender, there is a large terminal where the main battery cable comes in. On one of the posts there is a sizeable red wire that goes to the relay. If you disconnect that wire, you will kill the power to the pump.

You don't want to just kill the spark and crank, because then you will get fuel in the cylinders with no spark. Just starting the car is preferable to that.

Hi ChuckT, That sounds much easier...I will look into that when next down at the lock up. Your advise is much appreciated. Thank you.

450slcguy · #14 03-13-2010, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by embe560sl

My 560Sl has been in winter storage for 6 months. I have not turned the motor over during that period. I thought in order to get the oil circulated a bit before firing up, I would disconnect the coil lead from the distributor and crank it over a few times before reconnecting. Does anyone see a potential problem with this to anything ?

Just start the car up and take it for a nice long run. 6 months isn't that long of time to be overly concerned. The oil should be fine if it's less than a year old with few miles on it. If anything, fill it with some fresh gas and por in some injector cleaner.

Strife · #15 03-14-2010, 03:03 AM

The reason that you don't do this on an EZL or later 380 type ignition box is that there are integratef circuits in it that could be fried by high voltage finding another (very low resistance) path to ground other than the spark plug. Considering how expensive the later units are, the only "safe" way I see to do this is to disconnect the crank trigger and power to the EZL on the 560 or the distributor trigger to the box on the older units.